davewill
Active Member
Non-Tesla stations with their own (much better) timing capabilities. One is an old Blink EVSE and the other is an OpenEVSE.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Is there anyway to force ONLY off-peak charging?
- Thread starter Umar96
- Start date
Thanks. Just got the tesla Y LR in my hand.
I will play around with chargepoint flex and tesla scheduling. Luckily Y and I5 both accept ~12kwh and my evse hardwired with 60amp and i am good here..
Currently i dont need to schedule charging as such but i would like to know how it can be acheived for real use in the future
Sorry if I wasn’t clear. It doesn’t matter when I plug in the MY, it will only start charging (and always does) during super-off peak hours as determined by my charger and it stops when the super off-peak period ends.
Not trying to be silly at all but wondering if this device (or old school ones) could help some of the folks who charge slower L1 speeds maximize their TOU off-peak window since I think that is main issue. Power would be switched off at time limit set. Yes silly Tesla hasnt implemented something similar already.
Car would probably say “charging interrupted” when time limit reached.
Car would probably say “charging interrupted” when time limit reached.
I use something like this now for my Leaf since it has been relegated to L1 charging since the MY arrived.
Not much of a concern when switching on but when switching off there would be possible arcing within the switch as 12 amps of current is interrupted. When disconnecting a power plug from a receptacle, essentially what is happening here, the charging connector should be unplugged first before removing the power plug from the receptacle. Halting charging within the vehicle settings, phone app or by squeezing the trigger button on the charging connector will signal the onboard charging unit to stop charging.
Because you typically use a smart plug to turn on a low power device such as a table or floor lamp, radio etc. A device that draws less than 100W is not going to cause arcing when switched on or off.
Assuming it has the rating for the voltage and current and has the switching capability for those levels, it can handle it. There are other outdoor versions maybe more robust. We used to run old school rotary versions for our swimming pool pump. Cycled twice a day for 25 years without an issue. Again just need to make sure rated for voltage and current.
Well, it's a bit silly to be worrying about peak vs. off-peak rates and what you're paying for electricity in the first place if you're charging at 120V. The constant 15-20% overhead you're paying to run the computers (200-300W out of 1440W) is not at all an efficient allocation of resources. 120V charging should be used for emergencies and temporary use only.
davewill
Active Member
You could install something like this:
MHCOZY WiFi Wireless Smart Switch Relay Module for Smart Home 5V 5V/12V，Ba applied to access control, turn on PC, garage door (5v) https://a.co/d/2c6czzu
You would install it inside your wall connector and have it interrupt the pilot signal. Then all the power switching is handled by the car and the wall connector.
MHCOZY WiFi Wireless Smart Switch Relay Module for Smart Home 5V 5V/12V，Ba applied to access control, turn on PC, garage door (5v) https://a.co/d/2c6czzu
You would install it inside your wall connector and have it interrupt the pilot signal. Then all the power switching is handled by the car and the wall connector.
Thats true and good point. I made the jump to L2 very quickly as soon as graduated from a Volt to Tesla. Not sure if others have that ability to do that L2 jump due to circumstances (renters, parking situatjon etc). Long term, the minor investments to jump to L2 do have a slow but steady return on investment whether to maximize TOU or even the inefficient charging of L1. Not to mention piece of mind. I love coming home late night at low SOC from a long road trip and being able to charge sufficiently in a few hours to be ready for drive next morning for work.
My ChargePoint charger delivers 32 amps and I think it is on an 80 amp circuit as the main panel shows two 40 amp breakers connected together. Can I run a Tesla Wall Charger on 40 amps? I know for max speed, it needs 50, but I'm wondering if I can split my existing (presumably 80 amp circuit) between my existing charger and a new TWC. Obviously, I'll need an electrician to confirm the capacity of that circuit.
That's not an 80A circuit. It's a two-pole 40A breaker. When you see the number 40 twice, it's still 40A. The two handles attached together is just what they have to use for 240V circuits instead of 120V circuits.
Anyway, second question:
Yes, the Tesla wall connector is kind of nice in being a variable setting device. You can select what size circuit it's on, and you have choices from 15A up to 60A.
You could split up that circuit you have, with putting a subpanel on the end of it, and splitting that in two breakers, but you only have 40A to work with, so it could split like 20 and 20. Except one of them is a Chargepoint, and most other brands don't let you change the setting of what size circuit it's on. So it's probably meant to use that whole 40A circuit, and that's it.
If you want to split and share that 40A circuit, though, the Tesla wall connectors are built with that kind of sharing functionality among themselves. So you would need to sell that Chargepoint and get a second Tesla wall connector, and then they could dynamically share with two cars plugged in, and they will make sure not to draw more than 32A combined.
240V comes from what's called split phase power. The neutral is at 0 volts and there are two hot lines, each 120V with respect to neutral but 180° out of phase with each other (when one is positive, the other is negative by the same amount and vice versa). Taking power between these two hot wires gives you 240V. Every time you take power from a hot wire, it requires one breaker. 240V breakers are therefore 2 breakers tied together; current passes through both of them, in one and out the other (depending on which is positive and which is negative it can be in on #1 and out on #2 or out on #1 and in on #2). The reason they are tied together is that if either one trips, you want both to switch off so nothing is still energized.
Watch this video if you still don't understand what I'm saying. It might be easier to visualize if you see what's happening inside the panel:
See how this works? The busbars are arranged like the teeth of two combs coming together from both sides. A 240V breaker takes current from both busbars, one on the top and one on the bottom. Current generally comes back through the opposite busbar although it can also return via neutral as well (if your outlet is a NEMA 14 or NEMA 10 and has a neutral connector on it; dryers usually use 120V for the motor and 240V for the heating element). A 120V breaker takes current from only one busbar and returns it to neutral.
Last edited:
On my app, under Schedule, there is under "Departure" tab, an "Off-Peak charge" button, I set to 1 (on), and Off-Peak End Time, which you set to the end of your off-peak time (you would put 4am in your above example). It will not to major charging after that.
I turn "Enable Scheduled Charging" to "off".
You can choose either an end time, or a start time, but apparently not both simultaneously and require charging exclusively in that period.
Undecided_2
Member
Similar threads
