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Is there anyway to replace the bolt that the frunk strut brackets are secured to?

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Nikola1991

New Member
Supporting Member
Jan 1, 2023
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Richmond VA
Is there anyway to replace the bolt that the frunk strut brackets are secured to? Please see the attached picture and the circled part for the part I’m referencing. Again, I am looking for a replacement for the BOLT, not the nut. Thank you!
 

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Is there anyway to replace the bolt that the frunk strut brackets are secured to? Please see the attached picture and the circled part for the part I’m referencing. Again, I am looking for a replacement for the BOLT, not the nut. Thank you!
Could you be more explicit? Was it stripped? Is your car in warranty? Any sort of details could help us to help you better.
 
Could you be more explicit? Was it stripped? Is your car in warranty? Any sort of details could help us to help you better.
Of course.. I was working on installing the Hansshow Automatic Frunk opener, and when I was attempting to remove one of the nuts from the original strut bracket, the bolt became loose and would turn with the nut, which, in turn, prevented me from removing or tightening the nut, so the nut is stuck on the last thread of the bolt, and the bracket is loose as a result. I have tried to use vice grips to put counter torque on the screw to keep it from moving, but had no luck. I am under the impression that since this occurred while trying to install a mod, that it won’t be covered by warranty. So I am kind of at a loss for what to do. I am willing to cut off the bracket and nut/bolt if possible, as I am replacing it with the bracket from Hansshow, but I wanted to see if anyone had any suggestions first.
 
If you are able to remove
Of course.. I was working on installing the Hansshow Automatic Frunk opener, and when I was attempting to remove one of the nuts from the original strut bracket, the bolt became loose and would turn with the nut, which, in turn, prevented me from removing or tightening the nut, so the nut is stuck on the last thread of the bolt, and the bracket is loose as a result. I have tried to use vice grips to put counter torque on the screw to keep it from moving, but had no luck. I am under the impression that since this occurred while trying to install a mod, that it won’t be covered by warranty. So I am kind of at a loss for what to do. I am willing to cut off the bracket and nut/bolt if possible, as I am replacing it with the bracket from Hansshow, but I wanted to see if anyone had any suggestions first.
If there's room behind the bracket to stick in an electrode, you can get someone with an arc welder to put on a few tack welds between the bolt and the frunk. That would serve to hold the bolt so you can remove the nut and bracket, and then reinforce the welds.
 
The bolts look welded to the frunk. Only the nuts and brackets appear to be removable. Even if you manage to remove the nut, you would still have to find a way to weld the bolt back to the frunk.

Tesla EPC shows for frunk, only the bumpstops are a separate part:
1HOOD ASSY, MODEL 3, E-COATED1081390-E0-COver-the-Counter(No VIN)11
2HOOD BUMPSTOP.1090735-00-COver-the-Counter(No VIN)21
Parts Catalog

In hinge and fittings, only the strut bracket and nuts are available as parts:
1HOOD STRUT REINF1091870-00-BOver-the-Counter(No VIN)21
2NUT,HF,M8-1.25,[10],G10091454546-00-AOver-the-Counter(No VIN)41
Parts Catalog

I'm not sure if you really want to remove the nut yet at this point, but to do so, you probably want to apply some thread lubricant to the bolt/nut interface and let it soak. It may seem stupid, but I would also make sure you are unthreading in the correct direction (not in the tightening direction).

This video at 8:40 shows how the nuts are unthreaded:

If using a vice grip, use it to hold the bolt stationary (do not use it to twist), then use a wrench on the nut. For tight nuts, using a hammer on the wrench can get it started moving, but you must make sure you have the loosening direction right (otherwise you end up doing damage).
 
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If you are able to remove

If there's room behind the bracket to stick in an electrode, you can get someone with an arc welder to put on a few tack welds between the bolt and the frunk. That would serve to hold the bolt so you can remove the nut and bracket, and then reinforce the welds.
Thank you. I will look into doing this. I think that could work, if there is enough space.
 
The bolts look welded to the frunk. Only the nuts and brackets appear to be removable. Even if you manage to remove the nut, you would still have to find a way to weld the bolt back to the frunk.

Tesla EPC shows for frunk only, the bumpstops are a separate part:
1HOOD ASSY, MODEL 3, E-COATED1081390-E0-COver-the-Counter(No VIN)11
2HOOD BUMPSTOP.1090735-00-COver-the-Counter(No VIN)21
Parts Catalog

In hinge and fittings, only the strut bracket and nuts are available as parts:
1HOOD STRUT REINF1091870-00-BOver-the-Counter(No VIN)21
2NUT,HF,M8-1.25,[10],G10091454546-00-AOver-the-Counter(No VIN)41

Parts Catalog
I noticed the same thing when I looked at the parts manual too. I think I’m going to look into the welding option to see if I could get that to work. Thanks for the suggestion!
 
I would try the warranty thing, first. For one thing, the SC might have an easy fix. For the other, the bolt should not have come loose just by loosening the nut. The fact you were loosening it to put in an upgrade doesn't change that. In fact, unless you were banging on it with a hammer, I don't see how this could be your fault. The worst that happens is that they say no, and you can then still decide to persue a self-repair.
 
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That's interesting if the stud is still turning even when you have the nut right at the end of the threads and vice-grips clamping the stud. That would mean the threads are damaged and the nut is jammed on there so tightly that the stud itself is turning. You could certainly "destroy" it out, then do a weld repair, but it wouldn't be a fun experience for anyone involved. Since the stud is already damaged and spinning, I would cut off the end of it that the nut is still attached to so that you can remove the bracket from the hood and see what you're dealing with.
 
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