green1
Active Member
Unfortunately it needs to be accurate while you're print the charge in, otherwise how do you know how much you need?
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This just happened to me. I'm on the side of the highway, very close to my destination. Had 12 km on my battery and the car just shut off. My wife took a video of the screen as it happened and I'll upload it when I can. Needless to say, this isn't safe nor is it acceptable. 12 km used to mean 12 km, not the death of the car is imminent. Quite simply, the car can't be trusted when the battery is low.
And yes, I did supercharge until the car said there was enough juice to make it. Plus a bit of a cushion. Message said 12 v battery was low and the car would shut down. :cursing:
Tesla covering the the toe and say it's a battery issue.
And yes, I did supercharge until the car said there was enough juice to make it. Plus a bit of a cushion. Message said 12 v battery was low and the car would shut down. :cursing:
Tesla covering the the toe and say it's a battery issue.
SmartElectric
Active Member
Sorry to hear this. Hope you and your family are safe.
Feedback below, don't take this personally, this is just my own opinion
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Driving down to 3% battery remaining is risky IMHO.
That would also indicate only 2kWh of energy left in the pack (beyond the "bricking protection").
Given that there are ~7000 individual battery cells being managed, it is not an exact science to guess the exact amount of energy remaining in the entire pack.
Personally, I don't consider anything under 15% battery "safe".
I've taken our car down to 7% twice, and both times I was very close to home on a return trip, on a major highway, and pushing it to see what would happen in the final 30 km before our city, making it very easy to get a cab ride home if anything happened.
I wouldn't even dream of taking the car below 15% if I was away from our local area, especially if I was on a road trip.
There you go. My advice was free, and that's all it's worth, but it works for me.
We are safe, thanks for asking, and I don't take this personally.
I had 12 km left to get the 5 km home, and had supercharged to 120 km for the 65 km needed to make it to my destination - almost double the amount I needed.
Tesla told me on the phone this is a battery issue and they are looking after things. 12 km now, 20 km next time, 50 some other time? If this is happening at 12 km, then it's very hard to know or trust when it will shut down next time. It shouldn't happen at all if there is an indication from the car that there is range available.
The tow truck operator had to drag it onto the flatbed (tow mode wouldn't work, even after it was boosted). When we arrived at home with the 12V battery boosted for about 10 mins, the charge port wouldn't unlock to allow charge, and the tow mode still wouldn't work. He couldn't' get the vehicle off the flatbed and has had to take it to his yard for the night and the service centre in the AM.
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RAM_Eh
Member
As a person who routinely brings the KM down below 20Km this thread is starting to concern me. If this is a 12v battery issue I understand. if this is a main battery issue I am very concerned.
It sounds like you have a 12v battery or DC-to-DC inverter issue not related to running your HV pack low.
Not really. I started the thread with the exact same errors and issue. Turned out to be fine after the recharge.
@mcfadyena
Glad to hear you're safe. Tesla didn't get back to me with the real reason of the issue as I was promised. Please let me know if I can help in anyway given that you're not the only one with this experience.
@mcfadyena
Glad to hear you're safe. Tesla didn't get back to me with the real reason of the issue as I was promised. Please let me know if I can help in anyway given that you're not the only one with this experience.
hingisfan
hingisfan_Mark_V
skrenes
Member
It was accurate for me, based on his assumed speed limit. I think it's fair that the car assumes you don't exceed the speed limit (although it seems to have "old" data for the speed limit on the Coquihalla). Once it sees how I'm driving, it recalculates. It's my choice at that point to slow down. An improvement to the system would be for it indicate a range, with the upper charge requirement being at say the speed limit + 20 km/h.
As a side note, I've found "range" to be a nearly useless metric. I have my car show state of charge. With my former ICE vehicles, I never trusted the "range" either and just looked at the fuel gauge since that's actually an indication of how much energy I have. Range is barely an indication of energy, so when people say "12 km" left, it's kind of silly, IMO. The way I then go about determining range is I take the SOC and multiply it by 2 to 5 based on conditions, terrain, and risk. So if I have 20% left and it's -20C, the roads are covered in snow, and I'm climbing the Rogers Pass, I assume that's 40 km of range and I'm safe. If it's 20C on a summer day and I'm driving from Banff to Canmore, I'll safely assume that's 100 km of range. I find it far easier to multiply my SOC by 2, 3, 4, or 5, than to divide the "range" by some funny number or be thrown off when my car dies because Tesla assumed my rocky mountain winter blizzard getaway was in San Diego in July
. Also, the trip planner and energy graph shows in percentage, so why not use the same units?! Anyway! Sorry to rant.
green1
Active Member
Why should it assume the speed limit? nobody does the speed limit. The car has many ways of knowing you don't plan to either, first of all you have a configurable offset for TACC and speed limit warnings, if you have that set to plus 10, why would it assume you'd only do the speed limit? Secondly, even 20 year old cars could compute your average consumption based on actual use, why can't the Tesla?
As for the speed limit on the Coquihalla, I'm not giving them a pass on that one either, every other nav system with speed limits built in has been updated to include the new BC limits by now, and even failing that, the car needs to start to actually read the signs as it claims to do in the manual!
skrenes
Member
Haha, you sound a little heated there buddy. Tell us how you really feel ;-)
Jokes aside, yeah, there's undoubtably room for improvement. The trip planner is still in "beta", so hopefully these changes are implemented into the next major release. I'm surprised it wasn't in 7.1. I suggested to the regional manager, at the Calgary store opening event, that Tesla create some kind of owners-only platform to suggest and vote on features (perhaps in a reddit like format). If we each had a limited number of votes per release, say 10, it would further help prioritize what we collectively want in terms of features. Of course Tesla could continue to do their own thing and innovate, but while taking into consideration their user base that know a thing or two about improving their products.
mknox
Well-Known Member
Agree. I was just about to chime in and say this myself again. I would rather have my "fuel" gauge calibrated in units of 0 - 100 rather than 0 - <some approximated distance>.
*hm* I've found it to be rather handy. You still have to multiply it by a value to get the total drivable distance, I tack on between 10% and 40% using the same metrics you do: conditions, terrain & risk. To each their own.
beeeerock
Active Member
I have to say I do much the same. In a perfect world (well, in MY perfect world...) the 'fuel gauge' would show the kWh left in the tank. The REAL kWh, not based on the fictional 85 written on the back of the car. If there are, say, 75 kWh of actual usable fuel in the tank when full, show that. And then, in the trip planner (or somewhere), allow the driver to enter an expected Wh/km value for the journey. That would translate to a user-predicted 'rated km' number that could be decremented with the kWh under the gauge.
I've managed to get my head around Wh/km at different temperatures, weather conditions, routes... having the car do that math for me in real time would be useful.
Better yet, having Tesla keep track of typical Wh/km on major routes, with speed/weather etc (based on data pulled from the cars), could allow suggestions based on current weather conditions and proposed speed limit adjustment. i.e., plug in your destination, and the current weather would be queried... then the planner would do a look-up for similar conditions on the route and display a range of Wh/km based on other drivers actual experiences.
It is extremely difficult to accurately estimate the state of charge of a lithium ion battery, because the voltage sags very gently as the battery discharges. They basically have to count the electrons going in/out, and adjust over time (based on seeing full/empty) to keep it in the right range. So I would not depend on the last 5% of the battery gauge. The Tesla battery monitoring is pretty impressive, but it cannot be perfect.
I always strongly advise maintaining a 30 km / 7.5% buffer at all times. I've been doing this for six years now (Roadster and Model S) and have yet to have a problem. Even if you really do have 30 km left, there's always the chance that you'll hit a detour or accident or whatever, and end up driving farther than you planned (it's happened to me!).
I always strongly advise maintaining a 30 km / 7.5% buffer at all times. I've been doing this for six years now (Roadster and Model S) and have yet to have a problem. Even if you really do have 30 km left, there's always the chance that you'll hit a detour or accident or whatever, and end up driving farther than you planned (it's happened to me!).
Aussie Bob
Member
I agree with Doug. I guess we are ultra conservative and we ensure we have more than 50-75 km left as our buffer. My wife and I would prefer to charge more at each charging station than cut it fine as many in this section seem to do. We are not fazed by the length of the charging time as we had to always stop for the same amount of time when we had an ICE car and as often due to our physical problems which require us to stop and rest frequently. In fact the Tesla app usually tells us the car is ready before we are!!
mknox
Well-Known Member
I find that the Tesla range estimator app is much more reliable in this regard. The battery gauge shows me the SOC of the battery in % and, if I need it, I refer to the app to see what my projected range is based on my last 30 miles of driving. Similar to how I've done it with ICE cars in the past. I never multiplied my fuel in the tank by some number to figure out how far I could go... I'd just use the car's trip computer if needed.
