TMC is an independent, primarily volunteer organization that relies on ad revenue to cover its operating costs. Please consider whitelisting TMC on your ad blocker and becoming a Supporting Member. For more info: Support TMC
Start a Discussionhttps://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/tags/

Issue with new X: Steering/Parking/Airbag all out; any clues as to cause?

Discussion in 'Model X' started by boaterva, Oct 10, 2017.

  1. boaterva

    boaterva Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2016
    Messages:
    2,544
    Location:
    Northern Virginia, USA
    I'm just wondering if anyone has clues or history what this could be before I hear back from the SC. I figure it has to be something 'general' (like a overall sensor board, is there such a thing?) because of the nature of the beast.

    Last night as I was calling Customer Support about the Homelink issue to get their answer as to when a fix is coming ('in a release coming soon' as it is a known issue, I did find out), and as I was trying to break Homelink by doing things like stopping charging and unplugging, I, all of a sudden, got these alerts:

    Car needs service:
    Parking Assist
    Steering Assist
    and the Air Bag light was on.

    FWD doors also don't open, which makes me think their sensors aren't working either, perhaps?

    I was on hold for Customer Support at the time, and when I got to them, they had me reboot (turn off/on) the car, which I had already done, for a longer time (two minutes), with no luck.

    They also ran some diagnostics, and concluded a flatbed was needed (mainly because of the air bag alert, but because of the lack of power steering also). The car was picked up this morning and now is at Tysons waiting to be looked at. (Backing it out of the garage, I can tell you, I wouldn't want to drive more than 100 feet without power steering! :D )

    Has anyone had a similar 'general sensor failure' before?

    Going to check with them shortly to see if they have any ETA, and on the status of a loaner, which I didn't get last night, since I had no idea on how quickly this might be resolved.

    (Total miles is currently only 220 since the first week the car was at the wrappers!)

    Thanks for any comments on similar issues anyone has!
     
  2. vandacca

    vandacca ReActive Member

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2014
    Messages:
    3,055
    Location:
    Hamilton
    My only guess is a blown fuse.
     
  3. LyftupX

    LyftupX Member

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2017
    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Seattle
    Jeezus .... way to many posts with issues on newer cars.....
     
  4. boaterva

    boaterva Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2016
    Messages:
    2,544
    Location:
    Northern Virginia, USA
    Now, that is an interesting idea. I was going way too high tech.... You would think remote diags could have determined that, if so. Let's see what the SC comes up with. They have it inside and are looking right now.

    And it makes sense, as it happened right when I unplugged from charging (no, don't ask me why, some transient in some circuit?). Just the point that it wasn't just sitting there.... :D

    Any other car with a service manual and open fuse boxes, I might have looked myself....
     
  5. outie

    outie Active Member

    Joined:
    May 22, 2016
    Messages:
    1,255
    Location:
    SoCal
    One fuse box is next to the accelerator. It’s so user unfriendly to get access to it. When I unplugged one of them all the stuff came on the dashboard like car needs service and AEB disabled etc. So it sounds like you might just have a blown fuse. Unfortunately they can’t tell if a fuse is blown or not remotely.
     
  6. boaterva

    boaterva Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2016
    Messages:
    2,544
    Location:
    Northern Virginia, USA
    Well, on a car two weeks and 200 miles in, you can understand my hesitation.... :) If that's really it, should be a quick fix!

    Thanks for the info, all!
     
  7. Drewflux

    Drewflux Member

    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2015
    Messages:
    174
    Location:
    Australia
    Unfortunately its a yes and no type of answer. The remote diagnosis system should be able to see the Can bus, if the fuse is blown it should leave a low battery error in the systems that are out and errors from other systems not being able to communicate.

    Where the hands on come in is checking for loose connections, wiring issue, cat/mouse eating wiring,moisture ingress.

    Having the vehicle recovered to the service center is most likely better than sending a ranger in this case
     
  8. boaterva

    boaterva Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2016
    Messages:
    2,544
    Location:
    Northern Virginia, USA
    As of yesterday afternoon, they were still ‘doing diagnostics’. So either more involved than a fuse or other priorities overtook them! I’ll be there Wednesday PM for a loaner so will definitely get more info then. Thanks for the details!
     
  9. boaterva

    boaterva Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2016
    Messages:
    2,544
    Location:
    Northern Virginia, USA
    And, called for update, and it's unknown at this time. They are waiting for Engineering to get back to them. Eek... So, not a fuse or anything simple but something they've not seen before. This should be good when it's deciphered!

    I'm stopping by on the way home to get a loaner (car pool dropping me off), and will see if there's an update then. Brian in service was excellent so far in letting me know what they did and didn't know.
     
  10. vgrinshpun

    vgrinshpun Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2013
    Messages:
    5,668
    Location:
    PA
    I had assortment of alarms, including the ones you listed on my P85+ couple of years ago. It was eventually traced to corroded ground connector at the 12V battery. The fix included cleaning the connector. Never had a problem again.

    I think you are on the right track suspecting some kind of common system fault - and the common system imo is 12Vdc. I think that it is likely some kind of problem involving 12Vdc circuit continuity.
     
  11. boaterva

    boaterva Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2016
    Messages:
    2,544
    Location:
    Northern Virginia, USA
    I thought they were going to come back and say new 12 VDC battery. But this is a brand new car and has been inside except for when transported and 220 miles of use! Lol... should be interesting to see the root cause!
     
  12. boaterva

    boaterva Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2016
    Messages:
    2,544
    Location:
    Northern Virginia, USA
    So, the update is that Engineering is still investigating and that Tysons is really just waiting on instructions and results. I stopped by and had a good chat with Brian and Michael about how the service process works and the new comms process we’ve heard a little about here where they text you every step of the way so you don’t need to call in for updates. The text messaging is also two-way so you can reply if you have questions or need clarification.

    I said that that sounds wonderful as (to me) the more detail the better and phone calls just take up everyone’s time.

    I also got an X 100D loaner that’s only a little older than my car, so that worked out well for a temporary replacement.

    Hope HQ does chase this down quickly though; I’m wondering if it’s connected to the 2.5 hardware somehow, if it’s so hard to diagnose!
     
    • Informative x 1
  13. bwho9000

    bwho9000 Member

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2017
    Messages:
    33
    Location:
    Sugar Land, Texas
    Tesla does seem to be having quality issues especially for us people who slipped in at the end of the quarter. My AC chiller broke three days after I got the car! However, service was fast and they gave me a P90D loaner. :)
     
    • Like x 1
  14. boaterva

    boaterva Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2016
    Messages:
    2,544
    Location:
    Northern Virginia, USA
    #14 boaterva, Oct 12, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2017
    So, while we’re waiting for an answer, here’s a setup question. I have the X 100D loaner that’s essentially the same as my car, except non-AP2.5 (it was made in June).

    I have the settings set up exactly like mine (Auto Doors on, Passive Entry disabled, etc.). I need to double-click to unlock it and get the driver’s door to pop open, etc.

    But when I approach this car with the fob, the ‘running lights’ and tail lights come on automatically. Tested this repeatedly and even rebooted the MCU (seems to be needed when you change Passive Entry). My car never did that until I unlocked it manually.

    Which one is doing it correctly? I thought with Passive off, the car was supposed to do nothing until you used the fob? Perhaps my car had more wrong with it than I thought all along!

    This one has 17.38.4 but we aren’t aware of any real changes from 17.38 (which mine has).

    Edit: I've noticed while on a shopping trip in the loaner that Auto Doors Enabled, Passive Disabled seems to let the fob auto-unlock the doors, but not the car. Which is weird. That may be why the lights were flashing.

    I approach the car, the lights flash, I can open the driver's door with a handle press, I get in, and of course I need to double-click the fob to unlock the *car* (the usual from Passive Disabled).

    I'll need to test this further with Auto Doors both ways.. Auto Doors Disabled seems to secure everything, but you then lose the double-click doors opening. Arg....

    Edit2: And now this seems to have been a one-time transient... Changing Auto Doors to Disabled and then back to Enabled (as I thought was the correct setting) now has fixed it.

    The lights no longer flash on approach of the fob, and the car unlocks and the door opens on double-click. Passenger door then opens on second double-click.

    If I hadn't been supporting computers for way too long, I'd say the car was haunted... :D
     

Share This Page