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Issues: P41819

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I can't edit original post anymore, so a little more first post info here.

Car was delivered on 3/18/2016. It's a 2014 CPO, build date around May 2014.

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~3/20/2016

Issue 1: Pano Roof Sticking. I actually have a separate thread on this I can link to. The pano roof when opening would get briefly stuck at the vent position, and eventually would no longer open past it.

Resolution: This problem seemed to be occurring because the glass was sticking to the trim enough to overload the motors trying to open it. This was fixed by treating all of the seals/trim around the pano roof opening with a trim cleaning/restoring product. I used Turtle Wax Trim Restorer. I've heard someone else used Vinylex to fix the same problem. This did not require a service center visit, though I am not sure how long it will be effective for.
 
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3/26/2016

Issue 2: No 12v power (the cigarette lighter plug).

Resolution: This problem turned out to be an easy fix. Just needed to replace the fuse (fuse #35 in fuse box #2). So far it's working fine since the fuse was replaced. Makes you ask the question, though, what caused the fuse to blow? When it comes to 12v cigarette lighter plugs, it is real easy to accidentally bridge the contacts inside the plug and short the circuit, so this is one fuse I don't worry about too much.

Correct me if wrong here, but I didn't see a fuse puller in the car anywhere. Many cars have fuse pullers that store in the fuse box, but I didn't see one. However, they are usually cheap to buy from an auto parts store.

There are different types of fuses in the fuse box, but most of them are the mini blade fuses. All the necessary details on the fuses is located in the owners manual.
 
3/28/2016

Issue 3: Passenger side door not opening. This morning the passenger side door no longer opens. The handle presents, but pulling on it does nothing. I've read this is due to fatigue causing the switch or it's wiring to fail. My wife also questioned if it could be fuse related, which is suspect since I was just messing around in the fuse box to fix the 12v power, though I'd be a little surprised if each door is fused separately. Needs more investigation, but I could see this being the first service center visit.
 
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Issue 3 Update: Service center promptly took our car in Monday morning and provided us a loaner S. They think they will probably be replacing the door handle on the passenger side.

It's nice getting a loaner car. I don't know what most people consider normal, but I never got a loaner car for my Volt when I had it in for warranty service. I always had to drop it off and arrange other transportation until I picked it up again.
 
Issue 3 Update 2: Our car is being delivered back to us this afternoon (it's on it's way now). Pretty awesome service. Same day service, with loaner, and delivery back to us. Can't ask for much more than that.

Of course, this can only happen if the service center isn't already overloaded with work, and they have to already have the right parts available on site. That can't happen all the time. But at least for this time, it was completely positive and painless.
 
On the Pano, it's not the motor being overloaded, it's the safety sensors. As a matter of fact, when the pano is moving, if you simply touch the trim right about your head (kind of metal, rubber seal-thing that wraps all the way around the perimeter) it stops immediately. So your problem might be an overly sensitive sensor, especially since you just lubed the seals.

Hope this helps.
 
3/29/2016

Issue 4: Frunk pops but catches on 2nd catch. Usually after popping the frunk, you can immediately lift and open the hood. However, today it would pop the first latch but catch on the 2nd. This might be simple to deal with if there is a manual release like most cars have on the hood, but I'm not sure if there is one on a Tesla yet.
 
3/29/2016

Issue 4: Frunk pops but catches on 2nd catch. Usually after popping the frunk, you can immediately lift and open the hood. However, today it would pop the first latch but catch on the 2nd. This might be simple to deal with if there is a manual release like most cars have on the hood, but I'm not sure if there is one on a Tesla yet.

There is a secondary release, it's a small recessed "button" just to left of the mechanism in the sill at the front of the car, you move the button towards the left.
 
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You actually push the button down and to the left.

20160329_135752.jpg
 
There is a secondary release, it's a small recessed "button" just to left of the mechanism in the sill at the front of the car, you move the button towards the left.

Thank you. That was super easy to see after reading your post. Not sure I should even consider this an "issue". It's nice when they both release, but no worse than any other car even with the 2nd one catches.
 
There are a number of checklists that are worth looking at and bringing. Id call your advisor and tell them that you want to spend 60 to 90 minutes going over the car before signing papers - that way they can schedule their day accordingly too. I wish I had spent longer with my car. They delivered it with a faulty passenger airbag. I was too much of a noob to understand what the idiot light was saying, but they weren't.

When I was sitting in the passenger seat and the advisor was helping set up the phone it said passenger airbag off, again, while I was sitting in it. Then when I got out it said passenger airbag on. So it was backwards. It took me a week of driving and seeing the change on the dash as passengers came and went for it to dawn on me that something was wrong. I call the 800 number and they told me to take to the service center immediately and not to let anyone sit in the passenger seat. The person on the phone was apologizing profusely, and sincerely, saying it never should have been delivered this way. I got more apologies at the service center when I arrived. They take airbags seriously, for obvious reasons.

So here is a link to a list:
Model S Delivery Checklist and Owners Guide

There are other lists out there too. Oh and park the car into the sun and check for front window pitting. I thought mine was just a bit dusty, but it was an Arizona car, so was wind blown a bit.

Good luck and enjoy.
 
Issue 5: Driving away without the key.

Only 2 weeks in, and we've already had our first driving away without the key incident. Luckily, we could start the car with the phone (thanks for that), but not before royally upsetting my wife. She was briefly stuck in a queue line that needed to move. The biggest issue with using the phone is it makes you look like a total ahole holding up a line because you are messing with your phone.

There is an easy solution to this that hopefully Tesla will include in a software update someday. Add a feature, preferably with a control setting to turn it on and off in case someone doesn't like it, that checks for the key once the car gets a few hundred yards from it's starting point; if it's not detected, throw up an alert prompt to warn the driver they may have just driven off without the key.

It is fairly easy for this problem to happen. If you and your spouse both leave for work in the morning and normally carry your keys with you, every time someone forgets the key it will most likely detect the other key and allow the driver to drive off. For us this time, I was standing a few feet behind the car (never any closer), but it was enough for the car to detect the key and allow my wife to drive off.
 
It does that. Once it detects there's no key in the car it will tell you that it's missing and the car will not restart. It's a warning below the speedometer - your wife might not have noticed it. The warnings aren't too prominent.
Really? Okay, now I have to go test it. If it's there, maybe it just needs to be a little more demanding in it's presentation.
 
So I just tested the no key in car alert, and sure enough, it's there. Awesome! We just didn't notice it for some reason the first time it happened, but now we know what to listen and look for.

When you drive off without the key, it will give you the tri-tone one time right when the alert comes up on the instrument panel. It's the same tone you get when you accidentally press both the accelerator and the brake at the same time. Attached is an image of the alert, for those who haven't seen it before and want to know what to look for.

tesla-model-s-key-alert.jpg
 
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