It’s there a way to open the trunk manually?

[Danilo]

So, my model 3 2018 is bricked, opened the frunk using the 2 connectors, tried jumping the 12v but the car still doesn’t wake up. Had 60 miles yesterday and I just had it updated. App can’t open the car and I can’t connect the charger because of the pin that blocks it ( the pin that holds the charger connected). I’m wondering if there is a way to open the trunk so I can open the charge port and maybe this way the pin is going to let me charge it? Maybe that will take up the car

 

[RogerMc]

Can't fold down the rear seats and climb into trunk? By "open the car", do you mean unlock?

 

[Danilo]

Can't fold down the rear seats and climb into trunk? By "open the car", do you mean unlock?

Car is locked, can’t open the doors, it won’t wake up, app can’t find the car, even the customer service can’t find it

 

[Frank99]

If you can’t jump the 12v battery, plugging in the charger likely won’t help. The computers that enable charging are likely powered from the 12v system.
It’s all gonna come down to getting a good 12v battery into the car.

 

[Danilo]

Can I disconnect the 12 v battery? Because I already jump it and didn’t fix it

 

[Danilo]

I saw some videos on YouTube and they disconnect a cable under the seat, because I can’t go inside the car, I’m wondering if I can just disconnect the battery and wait a few minutes and connect again

 

[RayK]

I believe that the connector underneath the rear seat disconnects the drive (traction, HV) battery from the rest of the car.

Whether that fixes your problem or not, I don't know.

 

[Danilo]

Got it, I just removed the negative of the 12v battery and it fixed the problem, I’m going to call Monday to reset the error codes, but the car is working fine now. Thanks

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

Got it, I just removed the negative of the 12v battery and it fixed the problem, I’m going to call Monday to reset the error codes, but the car is working fine now. Thanks

Yeah, was going to suggest that, saw the suggestion elsewhere. With a very dead 12V, removing the negative terminal and then jumping the car should allow the car to power up (I assume what you did - what sort of jump equipment did you use? - I'm curious if the Li-ion portable starters will be able to sustain power long enough to make this work). It will complain about a missing 12V, but other than that it should be fine (from what I have heard here).

And I guess you make sure to leave Sentry Mode on everywhere or something to ensure it doesn't ever sleep until you get a replacement 12V. Not sure exactly how the sequence works, but I gather that is a workable solution from other posts here (no personal experience).

Is that consistent with your experience? Or is your 12V actually fine?

 

[Danilo]

Yeah, was going to suggest that, saw the suggestion elsewhere. With a very dead 12V, removing the negative terminal and then jumping the car should allow the car to power up (I assume what you did - what sort of jump equipment did you use? - I'm curious if the Li-ion portable starters will be able to sustain power long enough to make this work). It will complain about a missing 12V, but other than that it should be fine (from what I have heard here).

And I guess you make sure to leave Sentry Mode on everywhere or something to ensure it doesn't ever sleep until you get a replacement 12V. Not sure exactly how the sequence works, but I gather that is a workable solution from other posts here (no personal experience).

Is that consistent with your experience? Or is your 12V actually fine?

I’m really not sure if my 12v battery is fine, I have a multimeter to check it, but I’m just lazy, is a Sunday and I have other stuff to do lol.

never had a problem before, first time, but is a 2018 car with 44k miles, so maybe the 12v is bad ( I have seen reports that the 12v battery is dying quick and they are replacing it with a lithium battery). I’m going to schedule a appointment tomorrow to get it replaced.

what I did was, jump the 12v to get it charge a little bit while connected to the car ( I don’t think the battery was dead, because jumping it didn’t fix the problem). Then I removed the jump and just disconnected the negative for about 1 minute and connect it back, I think it was just a glitch ( I just got the new FW installed yesterday).

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

( I have seen reports that the 12v battery is dying quick and they are replacing it with a lithium battery)

They'll replace it with the lead-acid battery (not AGM), and it'll be relatively cheap (about $130 installed; battery itself is around $85, though not sure price has inflated recently).

 

[Danilo]

Well, is still under warranty, so if they offer to replace with another lead acid battery it’s fine for now, but if I have to pay for it, I will get a lithium

 

[jjrandorin]

Well, is still under warranty, so if they offer to replace with another lead acid battery it’s fine for now, but if I have to pay for it, I will get a lithium

I have not seen a single report of a model 3 12V battery being replaced BY TESLA with a lithium battery. I dont think thats a thing. The difference in cost is substantial, as well. Since yours seems to have failed and the car is still under warranty, its likely going to be covered by warranty for you.

If you were buying it yourself, however, the "standard lead acid" battery thats original equipment from tesla is $85. The most popular lithium ones are like $440 for the Ohmmu, or I think close to $600 for the MPP one.

You have to be looking at something other than "cost to replace" for either the Ohmmu or MPP one to make sense, because you could just spend $85 every 2 years and replace it yourself 4 times for the ohmmu (8 years) or 5-6 times for the MPP (10-12 years) before that even breaks even. Im certainly not saying there is anything wrong with those batteries at all, like I said, its certainly not cheaper, and wont be, for any period of time.

 

[Knightshade]

AFAIK there's no such thing as a TESLA 12v lithium battery for the Model 3 (or Y).

There is one for the new, refreshed, S, only right now.

There's aftermarket lithium ones, they're not cheap though.

Prob the 2 best known are:

12V Lithium Battery for TESLA Model 3

Battery Terminals: SAE, Positive Top Back LeftDimensions: 185mm x 116mm x 198mm (L x W x H) / +20mm for postsWeight: 9 lbsWhat's Included: 12V LFP Battery, Warranty Card ATTENTION: Please note that your vehicle may prematurely recommend 12V battery replacements when a LiFePO4 battery is...

www.ohmmu.com

and

Tesla Model 3 12V Lithium Battery Replacement Kit - Lightweight

The MPP Tesla Model 3 12V Lithium Battery Replacement Kit improves low voltage battery life and sheds weight! Easy installation and full compatibility!

www.mountainpassperformance.com

$439 and $660 respectively.

 

[Danilo]

I have not seen a single report of a model 3 12V battery being replaced BY TESLA with a lithium battery. I dont think thats a thing. The difference in cost is substantial, as well. Since yours seems to have failed and the car is still under warranty, its likely going to be covered by warranty for you.

If you were buying it yourself, however, the "standard lead acid" battery thats original equipment from tesla is $85. The most popular lithium ones are like $440 for the Ohmmu, or I think close to $600 for the MPP one.

You have to be looking at something other than "cost to replace" for either the Ohmmu or MPP one to make sense, because you could just spend $85 every 2 years and replace it yourself 4 times for the ohmmu (8 years) or 5-6 times for the MPP (10-12 years) before that even breaks even. Im certainly not saying there is anything wrong with those batteries at all, like I said, its certainly not cheaper, and wont be, for any period of time.

Got it, I’m going to take whatever they offer me, and if it dies again, I’m going to buy a lithium battery, just don’t want to buy one right now if I can get one for free with the warranty ( even tho is a cheaper battery, maybe I’m going to sell the car and buy a model Y)