It can not charge, the port is open but does not burn white.

[mostenec]

Good day, I read the forum, but did not find a specific answer. If the topic has already been discussed point me pleas.
I bought at auction Tesla '13 60kW , he restores the house. The car was on track and could move under its own power, the problem is that the port is charging does not start, now the auto main battery charge is low 0 miles to the 12 volt battery connected to an additional battery and charger 12volt 4 amps,
DC-DC changed the inverter does not work, it is changing the charging port, did not help.
Viewed fuses, all right. There is only one message 12 wills battery is very low. But 13volt battery display volmetr. Who
I faced with this problem? Please help




I am sorry for my bad english

 

[tomas]

It is possible you purchased a salvage car. Those will not charge because tesla disables them. Search for salvage on this forum. Maybe someone has found a work-around.

 

[mostenec]

Strange that he could move under its own power, the car was not badly damaged, I would say cosmetic repairs. And that Tesla could disable only charge? and leave the car to move to full zero battery?

 

[mmccord]

From the picture, it looks like the lock pin is engaged (like the plug is already connected). Isn't there a manual release on the back side of the charge port?

 

[mostenec]

You can put forcibly push back the wedge

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If you press the button, it lights up the white ring, and wedge lowers automatically, allows to remove the charge.

but the charge is not collected.

 

[mmccord]

From the picture, it looks like the lock pin is engaged (like the plug is already connected). Isn't there a manual release on the back side of the charge port?

Faulty Charger Plug Release | Forums | Tesla Motors

Your car may be too early of a build to have the release lever.

 

[mostenec]

[QUOTE = mmccord; 1295388] Неисправность штекер зарядного устройства выпуска | Форумы | Tesla Motors

Ваш автомобиль может быть слишком рано из сборки, чтобы иметь рычаг освобождения. [/ QUOTE]

We changed wires and charging port, but it does not solve the problem.

 

[Nosken]

Could it be one of the 60 KW ones that were not supercharge capable from the factory, requiring activation?

 

[mostenec]

How do I know Charging off Tesla Motors or not?

 

[green1]

Could it be one of the 60 KW ones that were not supercharge capable from the factory, requiring activation?

He's not talking supercharging, he's talking charging at all.

 

[mostenec]

Sometimes port is lit in red like this, a message about a problem with the cable, but it's not like I tried different charging that work on other cars.

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I want to ask experts how to do a full reset? I know that it is necessary to remove the 20A but what exactly? there are many of them.

 

[tom66]

Removing the touchscreen fuse has been said to reset the majority of the system. This fuse powers the CANbus gateway as well, which is ultimately responsible (at least it appears from my limited research) for generating these error messages.

Or, you could disconnect the DC-DC power and the 12V battery, then reconnect these, this should also reset things, although it may break other things, so tread icarefully, perhaps wait for more experienced tweakers (like wk057 or Ingineer) to chime in.

 

[Mike K]

It is possible you purchased a salvage car. Those will not charge because tesla disables them. Search for salvage on this forum. Maybe someone has found a work-around.

They won't supercharge (sometimes) but they will charge so long as they are not damaged. There's a lot of misinformation on salvage cars. Tesla isn't bricking them. They just don't support them and disable their 3G radios/ access to supercharging.

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How do I know Charging off Tesla Motors or not?

Have you tried removing the nose cone and jump starting the 12v battery? There are actuators that connect the main pack to the car and it uses the 12v battery to engage these. If 12v power isn't sufficient it can't do that and thus it won't charge and won't drive even if the main pack has power.

When you plug the charging cable in you should hear two distinct relay clicks. The first is the sound of the plug lock engaging that prevents you from simply pulling the plug out. I believe the second is the sound of the actuators connecting the battery pack to the car. I don't hear that in your video. I just hear the plug lock. Get 12 volts on the charging posts behind the nose cone and see if that fixes your problem.

 

[mostenec]

Have you tried removing the nose cone and jump starting the 12v battery? There are actuators that connect the main pack to the car and it uses the 12v battery to engage these. If 12v power isn't sufficient it can't do that and thus it won't charge and won't drive even if the main pack has power.

When you plug the charging cable in you should hear two distinct relay clicks. The first is the sound of the plug lock engaging that prevents you from simply pulling the plug out. I believe the second is the sound of the actuators connecting the battery pack to the car. I don't hear that in your video. I just hear the plug lock. Get 12 volts on the charging posts behind the nose cone and see if that fixes your problem.[/QUOTE]


The fact that 12 low battery charge message is very often the case with other faults, in my case also. I wrote above that i connect the optional gel battery and charge the to 12c.
The photo shows that the voltage of 13.9 volts but the errors keep popping up on the screen.

 

[mostenec]

Have you tried removing the nose cone and jump starting the 12v battery? There are actuators that connect the main pack to the car and it uses the 12v battery to engage these. If 12v power isn't sufficient it can't do that and thus it won't charge and won't drive even if the main pack has power.

When you plug the charging cable in you should hear two distinct relay clicks. The first is the sound of the plug lock engaging that prevents you from simply pulling the plug out. I believe the second is the sound of the actuators connecting the battery pack to the car. I don't hear that in your video. I just hear the plug lock. Get 12 volts on the charging posts behind the nose cone and see if that fixes your problem.[/QUOTE]

The point is that by pressing the button on the handle of the charging lock is activated and releases the engagement, you can get free exercise, back is no possible to insert a wedge is not down.

In the second video you can hear the relay clicks when opening the charging port.
You can compare the sound match serviceable with your car?

 

[kennybobby]

Some ideas to check

Do you have a hand-held voltmeter to check fuse continuity, voltage, etc?

When you have the 13.9V gel cell battery connected at the front terminals, what is the voltage reading using the hand-held meter at the 12V battery in the car?

Do the 12V battery messages still appear or vanish when the 13.9V gel cell is connected?


At the 12V battery there is a pyro fuse (red circle), a large 225A fuse (blue), and additional fuses (green) marked in this picture--may need to check that these are okay. There should also be a 12V battery monitoring device that reports status but i don't see it in your photo (but shown in this post, Need some help figuring out my salvage model S - Page 7)

Also is it necessary to unlock the charge port from the touch screen (even though the port door is open)?

 

[Mike K]

Have you tried removing the nose cone and jump starting the 12v battery? There are actuators that connect the main pack to the car and it uses the 12v battery to engage these. If 12v power isn't sufficient it can't do that and thus it won't charge and won't drive even if the main pack has power.

When you plug the charging cable in you should hear two distinct relay clicks. The first is the sound of the plug lock engaging that prevents you from simply pulling the plug out. I believe the second is the sound of the actuators connecting the battery pack to the car. I don't hear that in your video. I just hear the plug lock. Get 12 volts on the charging posts behind the nose cone and see if that fixes your problem.

See the only noise I'm hearing here is the sound of the plug lock engaging. Almost immediately after that you should hear another similar sound (though not as loud) and that's the battery pack connecting to the car. I'm not hearing that in your videos. Hang tight. I'll grab a quick vid. In the meantime you can pretty easily determine if this is your problem by connecting 12 volt power to the jump posts behind the nose cone.

The bottom line is that you've got 12v low voltage errors and if the car requires the 12v system to engage those actuators so it's worth a quick try to jump it, see if you can get a bit more juice in the battery and then see if it will engage charging.

Also, since you don't have a Tesla connector there are some cases where the door might be open but the plug lock will be preventing you from plugging the car in. If that's the case you shouldn't have any lights around the outlet and pressing the "unlock charge port" button will release the plug lock.

 

[Todd Burch]

Another thing you can try doing is pulling the Battery Management System (BMS) fuse. I think it's in Fuse Box 2. Pull it out, wait about 15 seconds, then put it back in. See if that helps.

 

[Mike K]

Any update on this? The suspense is killing me.

 

[mostenec]

Any update on this? The suspense is killing me.

I ordered this detail here how come we will replace and see the result.