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It's too late, my MCU1 Died....
- Thread starter Muzzman1
- Start date
avesraggiana
Member
I think he/she is SOL. Car is only a 2017, but has 75,000 miles. If Canada is anything like the US, his warranty is good up to 50,000 miles, battery excepted.
ah sorry, missed the 75k miles part. I’m in Canada, so was thinking kms not miles.
⚡️ELECTROMAN⚡️
Village Idiot
I first read it as 75kWh. Yeah that sucks but I guess that’s what all of us S owners have to expect and plan for. I see my best option is to keep my car and deal with the cost of out of warranty repairs. Second best option is to sell my car and get a Model 3. After two M3 24hr test drives I just like my Model S better. No plans to spend spend another $75,000 on another S. Maybe on the CT.
There is, you can try @zax123 Consolidated eMMC Thread (MCU repair) not sure how close he is to you. A good stereo should should be able to help you remove the MCU and Tegra to send out for repair.
Nope, Not many people do this in the world at all... Most the others are pretty far away from you.
I am in touch with zax123, just need to figure out how to get my car charged and to him. Tesla will tell me on Monday. This ought to be a design defect that should be handled as a warranty exception.
SemiS3XYR
Member
I am frightened to download new firmware available on my 2015. Like scared Sh less my system will go black again!
Juleeh222
Member
I just had my MCU replaced. [2015, 55k miles]. Had all the symptoms you are talking about: Garbled radio, etc. I couldn't get it to boot up and also couldn't get the dash to boot up either so it was dead in my garage. I called, pushed a bunch of different buttons and FINALLY talked to a tech on the phone who couldn't help, but did say: "Make an appointment on your app."
Uh, when the MCU is down the app doesn't connect.
I noticed that now my air conditioning vent on the right side next to the screen isn't working. Do you think that may be related when they took the unit out?
Uh, when the MCU is down the app doesn't connect.
I noticed that now my air conditioning vent on the right side next to the screen isn't working. Do you think that may be related when they took the unit out?
I would suspect the vent not working is directly related to the MCU r/r. I'd make an appt and let them know.
Just started a new thread before I saw this one and was trying to figure out the 2 diff MCU part numbers on two different invoices.
Anyway, I have a '13 with 72k miles and mine just died so am spending out of pocket to replace with a remanufactured unit (1098010-00-F). I hope since it's just the chip that the unit lasts for a few years and I don't experience the crazy yellowing or leaking screen.
Anyway, I have a '13 with 72k miles and mine just died so am spending out of pocket to replace with a remanufactured unit (1098010-00-F). I hope since it's just the chip that the unit lasts for a few years and I don't experience the crazy yellowing or leaking screen.
whitex
Well-Known Member
.
Just for completeness of this thread, I was able to install a 32GB pSLC Swissbit part (which is a 64GB part configured to be 32B GB pSLC) in an MCU1 successfully - running my MCU1 with it for last week or so.
Awesome. Did you do it yourself or get some help? We have a 2014 S with 78K miles and I'd love to the flash preemptively. I'm comfortable getting to the MCU but don't have advanced tools such as if its BGA soldered or needs to be copied externally. I'm in San Jose Any tips on that?
If you pull your MCU/tegra out you can send it to someone like me or @TonyT to do the rework / data recovery:
Consolidated eMMC Thread (MCU repair) (Black Center Screen)
Yes, I believe he is. I'm on the east coast. If you're shipping anyways it may not matter too much ;-)
whitex
Well-Known Member
If you don't have the setup to do BGA rework, I'd recommend you send to someone to do it, unless you are bored during the lockdown, are willing to spend few hundred dollars on rework gear, and learn how to do it yourself (sounds like something I would do, but I'm "crazy that way" according to my wife
). Usual "attempt at your own risk" disclaimers apply of course. I happen to have a decently equipped home lab (some of it from past "crazy" endeavors), so for me it was just buy the new chip, the reballing stencil (which I'm glad I got as I had to redo it a few times - see my post here for lessons learned) and the chip readers (long story, ended up using both USB and SD readers). Here is my setup as a reference (I was thinking of posting a detailed howto, but ran out of time, so here are the first 4 steps, the remaining steps, if all goes well reading the original chip, are: copy the image from original chip to the new chip, clean up the board pads, solder new chip on, assemble the MCU and reinstall it in the car):
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whitex
Well-Known Member
To complete information on this:
I ended up using the 32 GB pSLC part (EM-26 series) - the original one, part number SFEM064GB1EA1TO-I-HG-111-E32 (64GB part, factory configured to 32GB pSLC). Note that there is a new version of EM-26 available now, but I figured 2012 design Tesla so I'll go with the older one. The new version would probably work, but I have not confirmed that it does. I also tried the 32GB EM-20 series non-pSLC part which I re-configured to be 16GB pSLC, and that worked too (my firmware image was corrupt at the time, but the system booted and wrote syslogs to the emmc, so I can conclude that it worked). I trimmed the entire part before flashing just in case since I wasn't expanding the partitions at all - might as well let the emmc controller reuse all the remaining cells for wear leveling.
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