J1772 Adapter Melted

[calidreamz808]

I was charging at a non tesla L2 charger and used my J1772 adapter that came with my car -- I came back to unplug and noticed that the adapter had melted TO the L2 charging receptacle. Anyone else had this happen before? Any idea where I can buy another adapter like this? I looked on amazon and haven't been able to find them nor are they listed on the Tesla store.

 

[P85_DA]

I was charging at a non tesla L2 charger and used my J1772 adapter that came with my car -- I came back to unplug and noticed that the adapter had melted TO the L2 charging receptacle. Anyone else had this happen before? Any idea where I can buy another adapter like this? I looked on amazon and haven't been able to find them nor are they listed on the Tesla store.

You can buy this from Tesla or check for sale forums here ..you can’t really generalize a melting issue as there are differences in charging setups etc ..whatever caused that L2 to overheat was probably related to that particular source ..

 

[calidreamz808]

You can buy this from Tesla or check for sale forums here ..you can’t really generalize a melting issue as there are differences in charging setups etc ..whatever caused that L2 to overheat was probably related to that particular source ..

Amazing, thank you. I was pretty freaked out when I came back to find it melted to the receptacle but in the end, i'm not truly surprised seeing as they are those cheap Volta free public chargers that rarely work. I'm glad that I came back when I did because that could have been a fire or something. sheesh Guess I'll avoid those Volta chargers as much as possible but they're FREE.

 

[PoitNarf]

What, no pics of the damage?

 

[P85_DA]

Amazing, thank you. I was pretty freaked out when I came back to find it melted to the receptacle but in the end, i'm not truly surprised seeing as they are those cheap Volta free public chargers that rarely work. I'm glad that I came back when I did because that could have been a fire or something. sheesh Guess I'll avoid those Volta chargers as much as possible but they're FREE.

I use the free Volta’s often they are fine was ur adaptor fully plugged into the J1772 end ? If not I can see resistance built up to cause to melt I have never had issues at public chargers as they are mainly 30amp and below

 

[Kant.Ing]

Always be sure to make solid and firm contact, otherwise you are making yourself an open fuse and it's simply doing its work by burning and melting.

 

[calidreamz808]

Here ya go

 

[notAnExpert]

That shouldn't happen. I won't just assume that it is the fault of the Volta EVSE. I'd take it to the local Tesla service center and show them the melted adapter to find out what caused it. If it is a defect with the adapter, I'd imagine that they would replace it.

 

[SageBrush]

That shouldn't happen. I won't just assume that it is the fault of the Volta EVSE. I'd take it to the local Tesla service center and show them the melted adapter to find out what caused it. If it is a defect with the adapter, I'd imagine that they would replace it.

And be absolutely sure the car port is not damaged. It is reassuring that the damaged side is towards the J1772 and not the car but be safe.

Also, notify the L2 vendor ASAP to not operate that EVSE until the J1772 handle is fixed.

 

[verystandard]

That shouldn't happen. I won't just assume that it is the fault of the Volta EVSE. I'd take it to the local Tesla service center and show them the melted adapter to find out what caused it. If it is a defect with the adapter, I'd imagine that they would replace it.

Is that adapter you got with the car or you purchase separately? If it comes with the car it should comes with a pretty decent warranty, you can try warranty that. Not hurt to ask

 

[Casmium]

I bet the socket on the public charger was either dirty or worn out and it caused at lot of resistance at that contact point

 

[SammichLover]

Your Model 3 will use more of a 32A (40A breaker) J-1772's current capability than most (all?) plug-in EVs out there. The onboard AC->DC is capable of handling up to 48A if you're vehicle is LR, so it'll use all 32A for extended periods while others that are listed as 32A drawing won't pull that full amount for long periods, sometimes they won't pull that full 32A at all. It is quite possible this connector had a poor connection issue that was borderline okay for all other vehicles but when your Model 3 was drawing it simply got too hot.

Concur with @SageBrush that you definitely should let whoever looks after the charger know. Maybe even write a note to leave on the charger itself for now, that it may not be safe to use?

 

[SageBrush]

I had not thought before of the J1772 adapter as a sacrificial lamb to protect the car's charge port from mangled J1772 plugs but it certainly seems to have worked out this way for OP.

 

[SammichLover]

I had not thought before of the J1772 adapter as a sacrificial lamb to protect the car's charge port from mangled J1772 plugs but it certainly seems to have worked out this way for OP.

So far I've found the J-1772 to be a rugged, quality part and stuff like that does tend to offer protection from damage propagating. Whether intended or not.

I know the Gen 1 UMC was knocked for durably issues, leading to melting issues, but I've not noticed any complaints about the J1772 adaptor?

 

[SageBrush]

I know the Gen 1 UMC was knocked for durably issues, leading to melting issues, but I've not noticed any complaints about the J1772 adaptor?

I'm not familiar with the UMC 1 but I've always been impressed by the design of the Tesla plug/socket pair. The plastic housing directs the insertion. I see people wiggle the J1772 plugs all the time. I'm actually surprised there have not been more meltdowns.

Like this one
http://www.vitalquest.com/SynergyRoot/Misc/Temp/MissingPin1.png

From this thread
2018 Leaf charging connector is stuck in the charge port - Page 2 - My Nissan Leaf Forum

 

[SammichLover]

I'm not familiar with the UMC 1 but I've always been impressed by the design of the Tesla plug/socket pair. The plastic housing directs the insertion. I see people wiggle the J1772 plugs all the time. I'm actually surprised there have not been more meltdowns.

Like this one
http://www.vitalquest.com/SynergyRoot/Misc/Temp/MissingPin1.png

From this thread
2018 Leaf charging connector is stuck in the charge port - Page 2 - My Nissan Leaf Forum

Yeah, the Tesla plug/socket itself seems to be brilliant design. Just look how well the HPWC works at much higher current in the Model S/X. Also with the Superchargers, too. Interestingly I find the Tesla adaptor to be a very good fit with most J1772 cables, although occasionally so snug that it'll stick in onto the J-1772 when you pull it out of the car.

Gen 1 UMC issues were elsewhere in the gear, I believe primarily in the 14-50 portion. Some of that may be related to people using cheap 14-50 outlets in their garage and doing a lot of plugging/unplugging cycles on it. The biggest difference between $10 14-50 outlets and $40 outlets is durability in the face of plug/unplug cycles. The $10 ones are meant for appliances that are very rarely unplugged.

The other part is that Gen 1 uses all of the 14-50's specs, as it allows 40A of actual current. This is going to expose issues that the Gen 2 won't, as Gen 2 only allows 32A of current. The Gen 1 gear itself is also going to get hotter, with the +25% current running through it.

 

[SammichLover]

Two important differences between the Tesla plug design and J-1772 is that with the Tesla the locking mechanism is in the vehicle, controlled by the vehicle electro-mechanically. With the J-1772 design it is on the cord, thus will get more use cycles per time period for charging locations used by multiple vehicles. The J-1772 also uses just spring loaded clip that is further off-center of the plug. It isn't as secure a design.

Incidentally the AC portion of the Type 2 CCS in Europe is a lot more like the Tesla design than the J-1772 that is used for the North American Type 1 CCS plug. Part of why the Model 3 migrating to Type 2 in Europe made so much more sense.

 

[SageBrush]

Two important differences between the Tesla plug design and J-1772 is that with the Tesla the locking mechanism is in the vehicle, controlled by the vehicle electro-mechanically. With the J-1772 design it is on the cord, thus will get more use cycles per time period for charging locations used by multiple vehicles. The J-1772 also uses just spring loaded clip that is further off-center of the plug. It isn't as secure a design.

Funny you mention that.
I bought a mobile EVSE second-hand for our LEAF and found that the end of the locking latch claw had been broken off. The lock mechanism (at least for the J1772) is not just a security feature; it is also a safety feature because it adds another disconnect to the circuit.

As for Tesla's decision to put the latch in the car --- that is a double edged sword for us winter climate residents. My one and only car failure occurred when the safety latch got stuck in the locked position and I was unable to charge. That episode resulted in a 1000 mile towing charge for Tesla and a redesigned port replacement for my car --- that is still a problem, although since then the manual release cable has done the trick.

 

[GolanB]

And be absolutely sure the car port is not damaged. It is reassuring that the damaged side is towards the J1772 and not the car but be safe.

Also, notify the L2 vendor ASAP to not operate that EVSE until the J1772 handle is fixed.

I learned today that Tesla utilizes temperature sensors on each pin inside the car's charge port, and will modulate charging speed if the temperature rises.