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James Cooke's Model S Failed

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I currently have the 12 volt battery service message. I stopped by Tesla right when it came on a few days ago but they were too busy to get me in and they told me that I can drive it without a problem until my appointment on the 19th. So I have been doing some reading on the issue and found this:

Understanding the Tesla 12V Battery Service Warning

Thats the unfortunate problem with Tesla service!! With my other cars (Cadillac/Acura) I can get a service appointment same day or next day at the latest. What will happen when the M3 is out? 2-3 weeks for a mere appointment is not acceptable, its even worse when they don't fix your issue.

Google Tesla Vampire drain

In 24 hours, I drop 12-15 miles in range.
 
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Thats the unfortunate problem with Tesla service!! With my other cars (Cadillac/Acura) I can get a service appointment same day or next day at the latest. What will happen when the M3 is out? 2-3 weeks for a mere appointment is not acceptable, its even worse when they don't fix your issue.

Tesla has always been great when it comes to service with me. When the service message came on, I happened to be by the service center so I dropped in about 30 minutes before closing and they helped me out explaining the issue and that the battery was just low on charge (and despite charging would not go as high as Tesla's electronics wants it to be at) but would still work fine for weeks.

They also could have got me in within a week but I live in South Surrey and the service center is close to downtown Vancouver (about 1 hour drive). I'm actually downtown tomorrow and they said they could take me but couldn't give me a loaner and I don't want to hang around waiting. I'm next downtown on the 19th and they had a loaner available that day. So that's why it's the 19th. It's no big deal to me. For my last two yearly service they picked the car up at my office and left me with a loaner. They also fixed a door handle in the parking lot of my office. I've had better service with Tesla than with other car dealers.
 
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Tesla has always been great when it comes to service with me. When the service message came on, I happened to be by the service center so I dropped in about 30 minutes before closing and they helped me out explaining the issue and that the battery was just low on charge (and despite charging would not go as high as Tesla's electronics wants it to be at) but would still work fine for weeks.

They also could have got me in within a week but I live in South Surrey and the service center is close to downtown Vancouver (about 1 hour drive). I'm actually downtown tomorrow and they said they could take me but couldn't give me a loaner and I don't want to hang around waiting. I'm next downtown on the 19th and they had a loaner available that day. So that's why it's the 19th. It's no big deal to me. For my last two yearly service they picked the car up at my office and left me with a loaner. They also fixed a door handle in the parking lot of my office. I've had better service with Tesla than with other car dealers.

Can't say the same in SoCal? They are so busy all the time
 
My bet is on the 12 volt battery too. It's a common problem and one of the side effects is that it throws error messages. He should just pop off the nose cone and attach a booster to the 12 volts contacts that are right there. I carry one of these in my car:

I have one of these as well but the re-fresh 12V battery is very hard to get to. Thank you Tesla:mad:
I have a bad feeling one day I will be in this same situation w/o ability to get to the 12V
 
I'm curious to hear what it was too. My car at about 6 months into ownership threw a bunch of errors after I parked the car for a few seconds to move my garbage cans and started the car back up to park it in the garage:
- Automatic Emergency Braking is Disabled
- Traction Control Disabled
- Stability Control Disabled
- Regenerative Braking Disabled

I called Tesla immediately and they connected to my car to see what errors popped up on their end. They immediately sent out a loaner car to my house and took my car to the service center. They called a few days later to say it needed an update. I don't really believe that's all it was and was always curious what actually was the cause and what they had to do to fix it. It hasn't happened since.
 
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Given Mr. Cooke's prominence on YouTube, I think it would behoove Tesla to extend themselves to get him back up and running as painlessly as possible regardless of his warranty status. I've watched a lot of his videos.

Is the 12 volt battery "jumping" a Tesla endorsed tactic/ Should I get a portable battery jumper pack to keep in my 2016 Tesla?

-CB
 
Is the 12 volt battery "jumping" a Tesla endorsed tactic/ Should I get a portable battery jumper pack to keep in my 2016 Tesla?

afaik don't have the facelift models the jumpstart connections anymore. They are behind the nosecone on the pre facelift models.
you can get to the battery connectors on the battery itself, but you would need to remove some of the plastic around the frunk.
 
someone should note that this is only a problem in the older/classic models. AFAIK the problem was corrected in the post '14/'15 models.

I have a December 2014 build P85D. I am on my third 12V battery in just over two years. So the problem was not solved by late 2014.

I'll add that I never experienced a problem. The batteries were always replaced when the car was at the service center for something anyway, and I was never inconvenienced. I am concerned for the future, though.
 
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Does the 12V battery failure common with the MX? I have a dashcam hard wired to the car and I don't want that to cause any problems

It's common in all EVs and Hybrids.

Tesla Model S
Tesla Model X
Tesla Model 3
Nissan Leaf
Totota Prius
You name it (any other hybrid or EV)

12v failure is the number one suspect for random symptoms that aren't easily explained.

Grab a Noco Genius 7.x amp and charge your 12v semi-regularly and it'll reduce your chance of hitting an issue.
 
classic dead 12v behavior, it sat a few hours turned off, 12v battery charge recovers slightly, able to open a door, dash comes on drains the slight bit of charge away, dash goes dead.

If they had brought a way to power up the 12v circuit they could have put the car in neutral instead of fighting so hard to drag it.
Why remove the face and not try to charge the battery? That makes no sense to me.
 
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It's common in all EVs and Hybrids.

Tesla Model S
Tesla Model X
Tesla Model 3
Nissan Leaf
Totota Prius
You name it (any other hybrid or EV)

12v failure is the number one suspect for random symptoms that aren't easily explained.

Grab a Noco Genius 7.x amp and charge your 12v semi-regularly and it'll reduce your chance of hitting an issue.
Common on Ford CMax Energi and Fusion Energi.
 
On the new nose there is a post right in front of the battery after you remove the cover. That is the positive and use any body/ frame part or bolt for ground. I use a jump box I carry in the frunk to jump the battery. Once you start the car don't let it shut off until you get where you need to go. There are previous threads on this and how to open the frunk when the 12v is dead.
 
It's common in all EVs and Hybrids.

Tesla Model S
Tesla Model X
Tesla Model 3
Nissan Leaf
Totota Prius
You name it (any other hybrid or EV)

12v failure is the number one suspect for random symptoms that aren't easily explained.

Grab a Noco Genius 7.x amp and charge your 12v semi-regularly and it'll reduce your chance of hitting an issue.

How do you know the Model 3 will have this problem?
We have a Gen 1 Volt, Gen 2 Volt, and Spark EV. No problem at all, let alone a 12 volt battery.