JdeMO for the Roadster?

[DrTaras]

Glad you guys are getting it installed, but pity the guinea pigs are not putting in the guinea pig work

Car is for sale BTW
panjo.com/L/268082

 

[markwj]

1) Could somebody with a spare mechanical key verify whether you can lock on unlock the car (from the mechanical lock at the bottom of the door) while the Roadster is ON in PARK

Only way I've found to lock the car is with the FOB button (or with OVMS)...and both techniques require the key to be out of the ignition.

It is possible to lock the Roadster via the CAN bus, even when the car is ON. We had to add special code into OVMS to check that the car wasn't on before sending a LOCK command. It would be trivial to remove that protection, should JdeMO users require it.

2) UK / Japan drivers / RHD Roadsters - can you tell me where the "OBD2" style port (diagnostic port) is located. On the left hand drive cars, it is above the passenger feet on the right side of the car.

OBDII port is on driver's side (by law). DIAG port is in passenger footwell.

 

[DrTaras]

Tony, after successfully charging at LADWP Arch Dr, Los Angeles | Los Angeles, CA | Electric Car Charging Station | PlugShare yesterday, I'm glad you're asking this question...

Could somebody with a spare mechanical key verify whether you can lock on unlock the car (from the mechanical lock at the bottom of the door) while the Roadster is ON in PARK

 

[bigbill]

This gadget may be just what I need. Maybe.
I have a second home in Hawaii. The property doesn't have electrical service available, so I'm "off the grid" with solar.
I can set up the solar with a string of panels, but the current would be far lower than the Chademo can deliver. Up to about 10 amps on a sunny summer day. Half that on a sunny winter day. I wonder if this is flexible enough to function at that low current? I can do the current regulating.
Also, is the computer being updated for the SOC? I'd rather not have it tell me I have 25 miles left when there's a full charge!

 

[dpeilow]

I posted pics over on Speak EV. However I was in a rush to get to Germany and forgot about testing the key in the ignition thing.

So if one key is in the ignition and on, are you saying @Habious that you can't lock the car with the button on the spare?

 

[TonyWilliams]

This is awesome! Who's car is that? I thought you said there were 4 JdeMOs? (3 in the Los Angeles area & 1 in Seattle)

Yes, the 5th car arrived in my workshop today. This car will be used mostly for any little thing that I overlooked and for writing the installation manual.

It ain't over until the paperwork is done.

 

[TonyWilliams]

This gadget may be just what I need. Maybe.
I have a second home in Hawaii. The property doesn't have electrical service available, so I'm "off the grid" with solar.
I can set up the solar with a string of panels, but the current would be far lower than the Chademo can deliver. Up to about 10 amps on a sunny summer day. Half that on a sunny winter day. I wonder if this is flexible enough to function at that low current? I can do the current regulating.
Also, is the computer being updated for the SOC? I'd rather not have it tell me I have 25 miles left when there's a full charge!

Yes, the VDS will display the normal data that you're used to (ideal miles, regular miles, range miles), but the instrument panel (where the speedometer is) range data will be WAY off. It takes quite a while (and a bunch of miles) before it starts figuring things out again!!! Just use the VDS.

If you are off-the-grid, you could just trickle charge the car on AC power at 120 volts @ 6 amps (the minimum allowed... less than that signals "digital communication"). But, the Roadster hogs up so much power for the cooling system, you are just going to waste a lot of energy heating up the air. Not recommended for daily drives!!! You would be lucky to add 1 mile per hour (but, maybe that's all you need?)

So, rather than stress your home electrical needs, use JdeMO on your Tesla Roadster to provide a quick recharging away from home, just like a gasoline station for a gas car. Fill it up and drive home. There may be a CHAdeMO station near your house on Hawaii. There are over 13,000 of these stations worldwide:

 

[TonyWilliams]

It is possible to lock the Roadster via the CAN bus, even when the car is ON. We had to add special code into OVMS to check that the car wasn't on before sending a LOCK command. It would be trivial to remove that protection, should JdeMO users require it.

That would be awesome!!! All the more reason to add OVMS. The wring harness that we build plugs into the diagnostic port, and has a redundant diagnostic port for OVMS or other uses (like actual diagnostic work).

It will be VERY important to have a spare mechanical key in your pocket in case OVMS failed, or phone service failed (or your mobile phone failed). I would suggest an "are you sure? do you have a spare mechanical key?" nomenclature.

OBDII port is on driver's side (by law). DIAG port is in passenger footwell.

There is actually two separate ports?

 

[bigbill]

Yes, the VDS will display the normal data that you're used to (ideal miles, regular miles, range miles), but the instrument panel (where the speedometer is) range data will be WAY off. It takes quite a while (and a bunch of miles) before it starts figuring things out again!!! Just use the VDS.

If you are off-the-grid, you could just trickle charge the car on AC power at 120 volts @ 6 amps (the minimum allowed... less than that signals "digital communication"). But, the Roadster hogs up so much power for the cooling system, you are just going to waste a lot of energy heating up the air. Not recommended for daily drives!!! You would be lucky to add 1 mile per hour (but, maybe that's all you need?)

So, rather than stress your home electrical needs, use JdeMO on your Tesla Roadster to provide a quick recharging away from home, just like a gasoline station for a gas car. Fill it up and drive home. There may be a CHAdeMO station near your house on Hawaii. There are over 13,000 of these stations worldwide:

I'm 2 hours from the nearest charging of any kind, so I'm trying to work something out for right here.
That means either the 120VAC charging and coming up with a way to turn it on and off to follow the sun and house battery SOC, or go direct to the Roadster battery. I can do it either way, but direct is more efficient. It also gives me the possibility of using the Roadster battery as a last resort for house power.

I may start with 120VAC and do the direct later. Then I would end up with 2 methods. Always good to have a backup! Having the CHAdeMO capability would still be a good idea. There are a few of those on the other side of the island.

 

[supersnoop]

There is actually two separate ports?

Yes

 

[miimura]

I'm 2 hours from the nearest charging of any kind, so I'm trying to work something out for right here.
That means either the 120VAC charging and coming up with a way to turn it on and off to follow the sun and house battery SOC, or go direct to the Roadster battery. I can do it either way, but direct is more efficient. It also gives me the possibility of using the Roadster battery as a last resort for house power.

I may start with 120VAC and do the direct later. Then I would end up with 2 methods. Always good to have a backup! Having the CHAdeMO capability would still be a good idea. There are a few of those on the other side of the island.

Next year there will probably be solar charge controllers that can operate at EV battery voltages. Interfacing one of those to a CHAdeMO interface would probably be pretty straight forward. With a small array, you could probably just push everything into the battery until the charge current exceeded the BMS allowable current or top voltage. Then just open the CHAdeMO connection and switch the solar back to charging stationary batteries.

 

[DrTaras]

That would be awesome!!! All the more reason to add OVMS. The wring harness that we build plugs into the diagnostic port, and has a redundant diagnostic port for OVMS or other uses (like actual diagnostic work).

It will be VERY important to have a spare mechanical key in your pocket in case OVMS failed, or phone service failed (or your mobile phone failed). I would suggest an "are you sure? do you have a spare mechanical key?" nomenclature.

Are you working on a process where we would NOT need to leave a key in the car while charging?

 

[Stefan T]

Must be posible to "hot wire the car"
But i dont know how that will work togther with the inmoblizer
But you need deactivate it before start, so it check not all the time

 

[TonyWilliams]

That means either the 120VAC charging and coming up with a way to turn it on and off to follow the sun and house battery SOC, or go direct to the Roadster battery. I can do it either way, but direct is more efficient. It also gives me the possibility of using the Roadster battery as a last resort for house power.

I may start with 120VAC and do the direct later. Then I would end up with 2 methods. Always good to have a backup! Having the CHAdeMO capability would still be a good idea. There are a few of those on the other side of the island.

With a CHAdeMO port on your Roadster, you would have access to the battery for a Vehicle to Home (V2H) concept, but there would need to be a lot of development work to make that happen.

Building a simple device to enable charging at a certain available power is straight forward enough. Do you have the skills to make that?

The easiest logic might be to just measure the solar energy, and adjust the charge pilot signal to follow it.

For example, 1kW is available, then pilot signal is set at 0.8kW (6 amp pilot signal). Less than 1kW, then the car wouldn't charge at all.

 

[TonyWilliams]

Are you working on a process where we would NOT need to leave a key in the car while charging?

These are all issues that pop up after the "real work" is done ;-)

I haven't really thought about how to turn the car on without a key. But, that doesn't solve the problem of locking the door with the car on. We can't manipulate the Tesla firmware in any way.

So far, we have several ideas:

1) OVMS message from your mobile phone to lock the door
2) Disable power to the electric door latches (with a simple switch on the dash?), then unlock with mechanical spare key

 

[bigbill]

Next year there will probably be solar charge controllers that can operate at EV battery voltages. Interfacing one of those to a CHAdeMO interface would probably be pretty straight forward. With a small array, you could probably just push everything into the battery until the charge current exceeded the BMS allowable current or top voltage. Then just open the CHAdeMO connection and switch the solar back to charging stationary batteries.

I think that's the way it will be, though I don't need a real charge controller. With only 10A max coming in, by the time it got to the constant voltage level it would be plenty charged. Maybe a little too much, like 95%, so I wouldn't need PWM, just shut it off at the right voltage, then reconfigure for house batteries if needed. And update the OBC to the new SOC.
It's actually turning out a bit simpler that I originally thought. How may times does that happen?!
BTW there is a charge controller at that voltage now. It's in the Powerwall, but I already have LiFePO4 house batteries. They don't sell the controller separately either.

 

[TonyWilliams]

In order to make the CHAdeMO inlet go into the "charge" mode, you will need a CHAdeMO plug (buy a used one, or a new one for about $1500). The Roadster will need to be ON during charge. Then, you will have to mimic the following CHAdeMO steps at very precise timing intervals. Pin 1 is an isolated ground. Obviously, your system should be INCAPABLE of exceeding 410 VDC so that there is no chance of overcharging the battery.

1) Apply 12 volts DC to Pin 2 (Roadster recognizes start of charging sequence)
2) Transmit via CAN on Pins 8 and 9 your charger parameters (it can be any compatible data, max 10 amps, of instance)
3) Recognize when Pin 4 is grounded by the Roadster (analog "start charge" signal from Roadster)
4) Lock the plug (12 volts DC directly to the plug lock)
5) Perform isolation / insulation test (for your own safety)
6) Ground Pin 10 - the Roadster JdeMO contactors will close and send a CAN message with current requirement

IMPORTANT - The car will stop the charge and open the contactors if there is a loss of CAN data, or if the charger does not respond to vehicle commands for power. The CAN data for amps cannot differ from the actual amps. CAN message rate is 100ms. Max ramp up of power is 20 amps per second, so if you're only going to 10 amps, you should be ok with an ON / OFF type switch.

A zero amp request is the digital stop charge message.

If the charger doesn't stop with a zero amp message within 100ms, JdeMO will manually open the contactors under load (not ideal).

7) When car opens Pin 4 (analog vehicle "stop charge" signal), then
8) Disconnect Pins 2 and 10, and unlock plug.

Again, your digital CAN messages must match the actual amps supplied, so if you're pumping 10 amps, and a cloud goes overhead, and amps drop off, the digital data stream needs to reflect that.

NOTE: If you use this method to pull DC from the battery, there is NO PROTECTION FROM BRICKING THE BATTERY.

 

[TonyWilliams]

Another issue that I foresee in your "direct to DC" charge is that the roadster will likely respond poorly if the power source is not isolated.

This might not be the simple affair you might have in mind.

 

[dpeilow]

Happy New Year to all.

Been away for Christmas and not checking the site or email much. I wondered if I missed out on any updates on progress?


Also, good news from Italy EVA+ (Electric Vehicles Arteries in Italy and Austria) - Innovation and Networks Executive Agency - European Commission

 

[TonyWilliams]

35% increase in one year.
Entering 2017, the U.S. and Europe CHAdeMO installations have crossed milestones of 2,000 and 4,000 CHAdeMOs stations respectively.

• Japan – 6,945
• Europe – 4,051
• U.S. – 2,081
• other – 521