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Jebinc’s Plaid Vibration Experiment Results!!!

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Update:

After some more testing this afternoon....

I still had a very very slight vibration on low (occasionally), and a bit higher intensity on the med setting. Basically, the same as yesterday, even though I changed my front links from setting 4.4 to 5.

So, found a long steady uphill grade and was able to hold at 43 while cycling the suspension from low to med and back twice on the same hill. Did this many times and in every case the vibration increased when dialing the height up and decreased when dialing it down. This is the only way to test - constant speed and grade while cycling the suspension pumps! When I returned home, I measured and the front height was still 28” on low (same as yesterday) even though I increased the front links by .6mm - so that’s consistent with the vibration from yesterday and today, on the low setting. ✅ What’s weird is the rear was a little higher today (1/4"), even though I didn’t change the rear link settings at all. This leads me to think there is height variability inherent in the air suspension design. This might also explain why some feel a vibration some of the time and not at other times (ride height changes on it's own by a 1/4" +/-) from drive to drive.


@WilliamG @EndlessPlaid @lbowroom @N2itive @SignatureSales @GroovaEV @uthatcher

Update, on "Twosday" - 2/2/22

Decided to take the car out in 30 degree weather, in the name of science - as the roads were clear and mostly dry this afternoon.

To start off, I lowered the car 3/4" total (Setting 6 on the RSX-2 Plaid links) in the front, and 5/8" in the rear for today's more extensive testing.

Zeroish Vibration at this setting (low), for the hour I drove around!!! 🥰 Summer tires were rock 🪨 hard, I imagine, so that's why I say, "Zero-ish".

Raising to med height brought an infrequent ever so slight/noticeable vibration at the 43mph test point (less than what was felt yesterday at the med setting when the car was dropped 1/2". In all cases, this minuscule vibration "dialed out" when I set the suspension back to low. And, keep in mind, even with only a 1/2" drop (tested yesterday and the day before) the vibration intensity and frequency (when felt) was less than 20% of what it was before these mods!

A point to note: I noticed, when at testing speed, that I hit a little dip in the road. My suspension was on "Comfort," mean more rebound than on Sport or Advanced with sport toggles on. When coming out of the drip, at maximum rebound height, I felt some vibration for a split second. Of course, this is the result of a momentary high point with increased CV angle! So, for grins and giggles, I reduce the "rebound" by setting the suspension to "Sport" and retested. Momentary vibration at peak was gone.

Tried Cheetah mode; no issues (other than my front flaps touching the ground)... To fix this, I just went into Cheetah mode at the med setting.

Next Steps: Continue driving at this setting for another day or so. If no vibration, dial the links back up to stock and retest. If vibration is there in force, we would definitely be zeroing in on the root cause.


@WilliamG @EndlessPlaid @lbowroom @N2itive @SignatureSales @GroovaEV @uthatcher @sorka
 
I'm still running with the vibrating shafts that were replaced in November, 2021. I would love to get new shaft's again, but Tesla will no longer work on the car as they now consider this vibration "normal, no repairs recommended at this time".

Have they provided a written statement that it is normal? I'm guessing not. Because it isn't normal results in metal fatigue of many suspension components. Ask them to not only state that it is normal but that you won't have a catastrophic failure. An example would be the forelink.

If they provided a written statement that it is normal, you need to file an NHTSA complaint asap and provide a copy of that in the complaint.

Also, if it was normal, they wouldn't have fixed mine 4 times.
 
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Also, @Muzzman1 runs his car in low at all times - no vibration. So that's another data point. 10k miles, as I recall.

But the issue is it's NOT comfortable to run in low all the time, so we need a better solution than not being able to use the suspension as intended...(if indeed this is the problem).

When I get my MXP, it will never be launched hard unless it's at the lowest setting. I'm pretty sure that I won't even launch hard until I get it home the first day and replace the links to lower it. After that, it wlll be off to alignment to figure out if I have to replace suspension components for camber and toe.I think the options for refresh suspension are limited now for MXP. I see a kit for 21+ S but not 21+ X.

Also, note that it seems like excess negative rear camber should be adjustable now with a simple shim.
 
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Have they provided a written statement that it is normal? I'm guessing not. Because it isn't normal results in metal fatigue of many suspension components. Ask them to not only state that it is normal but that you won't have a catastrophic failure. An example would be the forelink.

If they provided a written statement that it is normal, you need to file an NHTSA complaint asap and provide a copy of that in the complaint.

Also, if it was normal, they wouldn't have fixed mine 4 times.
@sorka Of course they have. Right on the repair invoice and I have an email from the SC manager. Also, DriveTesla published an article a week or so back that indicated the same.
 
Good information. It would be amazing, if verified, that such a small change in ride height reduced or eliminated this vibration.
If true, Tesla might possibly be able to drop the motor down a fraction of an inch, 1/2" or so but the steering and cross frame are already close. I must say after watching the Munro Live teardown of the front suspension that I do not like how Tesla suspended the motor and differential. One driver's side mount and two passenger side mounts all elevated above the centerline of the differential unit outputs. To me these mounts should be much closer to the centerline of the output to arrest the counter torque of the driveshafts. It is tricky trying not transmit noise to the frame, yet retain everything in alignment while pumping massive torque to the wheels!!

The 4th time they replaced my shafts, they shimmed the front motor down about 1/2".
 
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I don't see a written statement from Tesla saying this is normal. A hearsay email doesn't really count. We need to see a repair invoice that says this is normal.

If this were me, I'd start the lemon buyback process. 4 attempts, more than 30 days, or refusing to fix. There's no way independent agencies or entities are going to agree this is normal.
 
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I don't see a written statement from Tesla saying this is normal. A hearsay email doesn't really count. We need to see a repair invoice that says this is normal.

If this were me, I'd start the lemon buyback process. 4 attempts, more than 30 days, or refusing to fix. There's no way independent agencies or entities are going to agree this is normal.
@sorka As I said, I have an invoice that says this. Car does not qualify for lemon law as it doesn't meet the threshold. Only two repair attempts and less than 30 days. Repair clock was stopped once they deemed the vibration as normal.
 
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@sorka As I said, I have an invoice that says this. Car does not qualify for lemon law as it doesn't meet the threshold. Only two repair attempts and less than 30 days. Repair clock was stopped once they deemed the vibration as normal.
So, the manufacturer can stop any further action by just declaring everything is normal? Have you talked to an attorney yet by means of a free consultation?
 
This is funny "With the problem recurring, the owner asked Tesla to purchase his car back under the Lemon Law, a request which the automaker has since denied."

Having done two lemon buybacks in my life, no manufacturer ever agrees to buy back with a direct request. You have to start the lemon buyback lawsuit.
@sorka That’s also not true. Our very own member, @WilliamG reported Tesla is buying back his PoS Plaid.
 
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So, the manufacturer can stop any further action by just declaring everything is normal? Have you talked to an attorney yet by means of a free consultation?

They can't. They can claim something is normal and refuse to repair it and you can sue for a lemon buyback. I had a 2001 Corvette repuchased under the lemon law. The issue was excess oil consumption. Chevrolet claimed it was normal. I contacted a lawyer that did GM buybacks and they started the process. GM agreed to buy back my Corvette after my attorney sent them a demand letter. It did not get as far as arbitration. They knew they'd lose. The title was still branded.

The buyback agreement occurred within two weeks of my initially contacting the lawyer. After the agreement, they had me keep the car an extra 6 weeks before turning it into a local Chevrolet dealer. The dealer gave me a check for the original full purchase price plus taxes, plus two years of registration (buyback was 17 months after purchase). They paid the lawyer fees. I was out zero and ended up having a car to use for free for a little over 18 months after I bought it.
 
They can't. They can claim something is normal and refuse to repair it and you can sue for a lemon buyback. I had a 2001 Corvette repuchased under the lemon law. The issue was excess oil consumption. Chevrolet claimed it was normal. I contacted a lawyer that did GM buybacks and they started the process. GM agreed to buy back my Corvette after my attorney sent them a demand letter. It did not get as far as arbitration. They knew they'd lose. The title was still branded.

The buyback agreement occurred within two weeks of my initially contacting the lawyer. After the agreement, they had me keep the car an extra 6 weeks before turning it into a local Chevrolet dealer. The dealer gave me a check for the original full purchase price plus taxes, plus two years of registration (buyback was 17 months after purchase). They paid the lawyer fees. I was out zero and ended up having a car to use for free for a little over 18 months after I bought it.
Just curious, when you purchased the Vette originally, was a trade involved? Did you get the net sales tax benefit back resulting from the trade?
 
No trade. Purchased October of 2000 (2001 model). Paid cash. Also, in California, the cost basis is not offset by a trade-in.

If you live in a state where you can net the trade against purchase price, the sales tax owed is only on the net number. That’s how it works here in WA. Tesla doesn’t cover that loss on a buyback. Lemon law case/arbitration seems to be the only way to be made while in that.
 
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