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Jebinc’s Plaid Vibration Experiment Results!!!

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Not rubbing it in, but my car vibrates not. It’s -6/-7 drop on links. I took some of the camber out of the rear with Mountain Pass trailing arms and toe arms. Just aligned today. View attachment 817594View attachment 817593
I'd believe that. I had almost zero vibration with my links set to -5. Did you set -6 front and -7 back?

Also, any idea how close you can get the alignment without changing the suspension parts? I was surprised to see no abnormal wear after a few months at -5.

the downside of fixing the vibration with lowering the car is that I scraped the hell out of my front bumper, even being extremely careful and using the air suspension routinely.
 
I'd believe that. I had almost zero vibration with my links set to -5. Did you set -6 front and -7 back?

Also, any idea how close you can get the alignment without changing the suspension parts? I was surprised to see no abnormal wear after a few months at -5.

the downside of fixing the vibration with lowering the car is that I scraped the hell out of my front bumper, even being extremely careful and using the air suspension routinely.
Yes -6 Front -7 rear. Rear camber is around 2.5°. The Mountain Pass trailing arm adjustment got it to 2.2°. Toe was adjustable to whatever you want, I’m sure the factory arm too, but the Mountain Pass arms ditch the rubber bushings. Front does have an OEM eccentric camber adjust -1.2° was the max setting. The factory front toe was pretty bad. The tires are quieter now that’s it’s set correctly.
 
131 miles on my 2022 Plaid (built May 30, 2022), and the vibration is bloody awful. At 41mph my yoke and pedals vibrate. Brutal. Really the worst part of the car right now, - such a downer! This is without doubt worse than my 2021 in this particular regard. While my 2021 Plaid did vibrate, it wasn't as bad as this.... The best way to describe it is if you're driving a manual transmission and you ought to be in 3rd gear but you're in 4th gear (not quite 5th gear bad...), and then gently accelerate, and you feel the car vibrating.

Oh, and confirmed, just like with my 2021 - Track Mode with full rear bias and the problem goes away completely.

@jebinc
 
131 miles on my 2022 Plaid (built May 30, 2022), and the vibration is bloody awful. At 41mph my yoke and pedals vibrate. Brutal. Really the worst part of the car right now, - such a downer! This is without doubt worse than my 2021 in this particular regard. While my 2021 Plaid did vibrate, it wasn't as bad as this.... The best way to describe it is if you're driving a manual transmission and you ought to be in 3rd gear but you're in 4th gear (not quite 5th gear bad...), and then gently accelerate, and you feel the car vibrating.

Oh, and confirmed, just like with my 2021 - Track Mode with full rear bias and the problem goes away completely.

@jebinc
It really sounds like a “motor mount” issue that was discussed in this thread or a similar thread.

ICE motor mounts have a safety in them in the event that the rubber lets go. Motor won’t move beyond a certain limit. But it’s still a bad motor mount. And the motor can rock or lift to a limit.

At just the right load the motor could bounce /oscillate. If you floor it, it would lock the motor mount to the “lifted” extreme and not oscillate.

This also fits with feeling it in the yoke and pedal.

I wonder if just one hard launch rips the motor mount rubber and now it relies on the “safety” of the motor mount. But you could be bouncing in the motor mount itself. Or defective motor mounts.

It would be hard to spot visibly.

This would explain why it’s different than pre refresh vibration that gets worse with higher load too.

It all fits.
 
It really sounds like a “motor mount” issue that was discussed in this thread or a similar thread.

ICE motor mounts have a safety in them in the event that the rubber lets go. Motor won’t move beyond a certain limit. But it’s still a bad motor mount. And the motor can rock or lift to a limit.

At just the right load the motor could bounce /oscillate. If you floor it, it would lock the motor mount to the “lifted” extreme and not oscillate.

This also fits with feeling it in the yoke and pedal.

I wonder if just one hard launch rips the motor mount rubber and now it relies on the “safety” of the motor mount. But you could be bouncing in the motor mount itself. Or defective motor mounts.

It would be hard to spot visibly.

This would explain why it’s different than pre refresh vibration that gets worse with higher load too.

It all fits.

But why at around 40mph? Why would it be present under the gentlest of acceleration to maintain 41mph? Frustrating...
 
It really sounds like a “motor mount” issue that was discussed in this thread or a similar thread.

ICE motor mounts have a safety in them in the event that the rubber lets go. Motor won’t move beyond a certain limit. But it’s still a bad motor mount. And the motor can rock or lift to a limit.

At just the right load the motor could bounce /oscillate. If you floor it, it would lock the motor mount to the “lifted” extreme and not oscillate.

This also fits with feeling it in the yoke and pedal.

I wonder if just one hard launch rips the motor mount rubber and now it relies on the “safety” of the motor mount. But you could be bouncing in the motor mount itself. Or defective motor mounts.

It would be hard to spot visibly.

This would explain why it’s different than pre refresh vibration that gets worse with higher load too.

It all fits.
I think it’s more likely electrical resonance of some sort. F’d inverters, motor tolerance build up, etc. it is just shite, whatever it is.
 
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I think it’s more likely electrical resonance of some sort. F’d inverters, motor tolerance build up, etc. it is just shite, whatever it is.
I think if it was that I’d expect a big difference between Plaid vs LR since I’d expect the resonance would likely be quite different.

Also the fact that folks say they feel it in Yoke and Pedal. It’s strange that anything is felt in the pedal since it’s drive by wire. But Yoke would make sense.

Be nice if you could remove frunk liner and setup a camera :)

It could be both. The whole system has a “resonance” that includes the rubber in the motor mount (s). You could change the resonance frequency with a stiffer or softer motor mount. Or you could change the response rates in software. They are clashing.

Resonance probably changes with suspension height too. Everything has some elasticity. The motor mount is a pretty critical component of that whole system. And extremely close to the motor itself.
 
why has no one put a go pro in the area of the motors and CV shafts?

we need to video tape the entire envelope of the suspension and motor setup during cruising and under heavy loads/braking....


PLEASE. trading in my MPP M3P next week for a plaid x i ordered last week....makes me feel like its been passed around to people who dont want to accept delivery.
 
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why has no one put a go pro in the area of the motors and CV shafts?

we need to video tape the entire envelope of the suspension and motor setup during cruising and under heavy loads/braking....


PLEASE. trading in my MPP M3P next week for a plaid x i ordered last week....makes me feel like its been passed around to people who dont want to accept delivery.

I don't have a go pro. Wish I did!
 
why has no one put a go pro in the area of the motors and CV shafts?

we need to video tape the entire envelope of the suspension and motor setup during cruising and under heavy loads/braking....


PLEASE. trading in my MPP M3P next week for a plaid x i ordered last week....makes me feel like its been passed around to people who dont want to accept delivery.
Thats what I did, check out Vibration on hard acceleration where you can find the video from inside, its not plaid but the mechanics are most likely the same. The thing I suspect which is also kinda confirmed with this thread is that on hard acceleration the axles bend to an angle where its running off center so lowering the car with the links helps to mitigate the problem. The real issue I suspect is with the big motor mount (passenger side) , its just too soft, not sure if its different in Plaid but definatelly due to its softness it raises the engine and driveshafts with it making the angle unacceptable.
 
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Thats what I did, check out Vibration on hard acceleration where you can find the video from inside, its not plaid but the mechanics are most likely the same. The thing I suspect which is also kinda confirmed with this thread is that on hard acceleration the axles bend to an angle where its running off center so lowering the car with the links helps to mitigate the problem. The real issue I suspect is with the big motor mount (passenger side) , its just too soft, not sure if its different in Plaid but definatelly due to its softness it raises the engine and driveshafts with it making the angle unacceptable.
The Refresh vibration doesn’t happen on hard acceleration. Only on slight acceleration on a narrow range in speed. Some sort of resonance. Maybe they did stiffen the motor mounts and now we have this new vibration coupled to the body.
 
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The Refresh vibration doesn’t happen on hard acceleration. Only on slight acceleration on a narrow range in speed. Some sort of resonance. Maybe they did stiffen the motor mounts and now we have this new vibration coupled to the body.
Right, as someone who's had the shudder under hard acceleration and has the vibration, they are completely different. The shudder you can actually hear too.
 
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The Refresh vibration doesn’t happen on hard acceleration. Only on slight acceleration on a narrow range in speed. Some sort of resonance. Maybe they did stiffen the motor mounts and now we have this new vibration coupled to the body.
Possibly they did stiffen it, would be interesting to know the numbers from the rubber and confront it with the previous models versions.
 
Possibly they did stiffen it, would be interesting to know the numbers from the rubber and confront it with the previous models versions.
You mean part numbers? Chances are the mount is different since they changed the motor.

There was some talk about folks thinking the refresh needed another motor mount. Or that Tesla removed one due to other changes in refresh.
 
You mean part numbers? Chances are the mount is different since they changed the motor.

There was some talk about folks thinking the refresh needed another motor mount. Or that Tesla removed one due to other changes in refresh.
Each rubber bit in the bushings has numbers on them like +17 etc, I think thats stiffness. For reference look at the image, thats the old revision driver side motor mount for pre lift S. It has values between +15 and +17, whereas new revision has +21 to +22.

 

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Each rubber bit in the bushings has numbers on them like +17 etc, I think thats stiffness. For reference look at the image, thats the old revision driver side motor mount for pre lift S. It has values between +15 and +17, whereas new revision has +21 to +22.

I wonder if with the softer bushing the motor was bouncing under load. Now with the stiffer bushing the swing is much smaller or it’s coupling another vibration to the body. I suspect it’s still bouncing, just a lot less. It takes time for the bushings to soften up. Because if it was a coupling issue newer bushings would probably be worse.

Why new shafts make any difference I don’t know. But I think it’s related to the bushings. Maybe the shafts contribute to the oscillation. But the bushings are a part of this loop.
 
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I wonder if with the softer bushing the motor was bouncing under load. Now with the stiffer bushing the swing is much smaller or it’s coupling another vibration to the body. I suspect it’s still bouncing, just a lot less. It takes time for the bushings to soften up. Because if it was a coupling issue newer bushings would probably be worse.

Why new shafts make any difference I don’t know. But I think it’s related to the bushings. Maybe the shafts contribute to the oscillation. But the bushings are a part of this loop.
I think you are right with the loop bit, bad axle makes more vibration, under load old soft bushing cannot damp it so the axle getting worse, new bushing mitigate that to some extent, but at the point people complain about the vibration its too late to just change the bushing so new axles is a must.
 
I feel your pain, have 3 mth old model y performance. Above 60 mph car really shyddes and vibrates. Does it at 40 mph when lightly applying throttle. No vibration at any constant speed. Lowered car made little differece. Aligned on Hunter machine, wheels perfect balance. Have square all round so swapped them over, no change. Changed could over suspension settings from soft to rock hard, no change. Tried tire pressure 10 lbs range no change. Have ordered new half shafts and module to change torque vectoring as MYO does not have track mode. What a shame it's a great car. Sorry to borrow your thread. Anybody tried adding a weight to the shafts to change balance? Also read here about grease bulking in rubber boot, is that a thing?
 
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I feel your pain, have 3 mth old model y performance. Above 60 mph car really shyddes and vibrates. Does it at 40 mph when lightly applying throttle. No vibration at any constant speed. Lowered car made little differece. Aligned on Hunter machine, wheels perfect balance. Have square all round so swapped them over, no change. Changed could over suspension settings from soft to rock hard, no change. Tried tire pressure 10 lbs range no change. Have ordered new half shafts and module to change torque vectoring as MYO does not have track mode. What a shame it's a great car. Sorry to borrow your thread. Anybody tried adding a weight to the shafts to change balance? Also read here about grease bulking in rubber boot, is that a thing?
Model Y? Did you mean X?