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Just ordered 2016 P90DL, battery concerns?

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I think this is an impossible question -- there are a craptillion combinations of different interiors on the S.

I just trawled ev-cpo.com until I found a car that seemed like the right combination of required features for me (big-block battery (85 or larger), AWD, winter package, 4 year warranty, AP1 or better, can't be white or black. I compromised on some things (ended up with air suspension even though I was worried about it, didn't get 3rd row seats even though I kinda wanted them, didn't get super stereo, etc).

I like the premium interior in my 2016 and I don't mind the pre-facelift look. The leather is a little fragile and already has a couple scratches from careless fingernails or rings. I personally don't need any better than the speed of a "normal" 90d; even coming from a S7 I don't think you'd be saddened by ordinary performance and you do lose a non-trivial amount of range going to a P series.

As far as the 90 series battery goes, there are unhappy people with the 90 series battery; I have a first generation / series 1 90 battery pack and I find that it is "good enough" in that I get 251 miles at 90% and am never patient enough to let the car actually charge all the way to 100%. It does what I need it to and likely will continue to do what's needed even if the battery loses another 10-20 miles of range. Would I be happy about it? No; but it is good enough for what I use it for that I won't notice. I avoided the smaller batteries specifically because I wasn't sure I'd be able to use the car as I want to if the smaller battery loses a non-trivial amount of range.
Thank you so much for responding! Seems that the current prices on ev cpo boil it down to a preference as the prices are very close between the P and non P versions. Thanks for responding!
 
Thank you so much for responding! Seems that the current prices on ev cpo boil it down to a preference as the prices are very close between the P and non P versions. Thanks for responding!

Keep in mind that the people at the tesla not-a-dealership have access to a much larger population of cars than available via the API.

Also keep in mind that if you do decide to get a "not-a-cpo" used car from tesla you'll be in for an adventure. You'll give them a large amount of money, not hear anything for a long time, then be expected to come pick up your "not new" car with relatively little notice. Then, they'll take you out to see your not-new car and you will be able to walk around, kick the tires, but not drive it. Hopefully you'll be able to put it on a charger and verify that the battery charges. Otherwise, that's it, you get what you get and you don't get upset. You can reject it, if you like; I'm not sure what happens if you do. The not-new cars are warehoused and inventoried and photographed at a company that specializes in the "used cars nobody wants" auction circuit.

I saved $25k off of a brand-new never-farted-in tesla buying used; $25k for me is a lot of money; the 4 year not-cpo warranty is the same (theoretically) as the new car warranty, but the 2020 teslas are quite a bit better than the 2016 teslas.
 
Keep in mind that the people at the tesla not-a-dealership have access to a much larger population of cars than available via the API.

Also keep in mind that if you do decide to get a "not-a-cpo" used car from tesla you'll be in for an adventure. You'll give them a large amount of money, not hear anything for a long time, then be expected to come pick up your "not new" car with relatively little notice. Then, they'll take you out to see your not-new car and you will be able to walk around, kick the tires, but not drive it. Hopefully you'll be able to put it on a charger and verify that the battery charges. Otherwise, that's it, you get what you get and you don't get upset. You can reject it, if you like; I'm not sure what happens if you do. The not-new cars are warehoused and inventoried and photographed at a company that specializes in the "used cars nobody wants" auction circuit.

I saved $25k off of a brand-new never-farted-in tesla buying used; $25k for me is a lot of money; the 4 year not-cpo warranty is the same (theoretically) as the new car warranty, but the 2020 teslas are quite a bit better than the 2016 teslas.
My understanding (from my email exchanges with the Tesla used car advisor) is that unless I bring my trade in with me, if I reject the Tesla I can have my car back, if I trade it in locally and pick up a Tesla in another state and reject it, I am SOL...no car back and presumably get the cash equivalent back but not my car.
 
Just a small nit here -- the Performance Plus suspension was included on all P85Ds with build dates (not delivery) before May, 2015. April 2015 is inclusive of the P+ suspension.

Thanks for that clarification. It was your thread about the suspension that had me double checking the numbers on my dampers. When I ordered my car last month, I asked Tesla if it had the + suspension since it also came with 19" cyclones. The listing indicated the car had it, but the sales advisor said that it didn't. As the car did not feel floaty or wallowy in the corners, I had to double check the numbers.
 
My understanding (from my email exchanges with the Tesla used car advisor) is that unless I bring my trade in with me, if I reject the Tesla I can have my car back, if I trade it in locally and pick up a Tesla in another state and reject it, I am SOL...no car back and presumably get the cash equivalent back but not my car.

I didn't try doing a used-car-buy from tesla with a trade-in; my prior car is a 2003 audi allroad with one bad air shock, so the value of the car doubles if I fill the tank more than 1/2 way. My suspicion is that you'll get exactly the same money from CarMax or the other buy-your-car / sell you a car places.

The state I live in has tax advantages to doing the entire exchange at one establishment.

Doing both certainly increase the pucker-factor for the whole exchange, though.
 
I didn't try doing a used-car-buy from tesla with a trade-in; my prior car is a 2003 audi allroad with one bad air shock, so the value of the car doubles if I fill the tank more than 1/2 way. My suspicion is that you'll get exactly the same money from CarMax or the other buy-your-car / sell you a car places.

The state I live in has tax advantages to doing the entire exchange at one establishment.

Doing both certainly increase the pucker-factor for the whole exchange, though.
Yes, it's a logistical pain, I cannot afford to buy a Tesla without trading my s7 in...person who ultimately buys it next will have a replaced engine with 7k miles in it and new tires.
 
Isn't the benefit of the smart suspension that you can raise the car if needed and the perf + suspension one cannot adjust?

The "Smart (air) Suspension" is completely different from the Performance Plus suspension. In fact, all P+ cars must have the Smart Suspension. The P+ suspension adds:

* Rear lower control arms with revised stiffer bushings
* Rear upper links with revised stiffer bushings

Although I do think there's one TMCer who replaced his air suspension with springs but kept the P+ components.

Here's the thread for anyone who wants to learn everything about the P+ suspension: https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/performance-plus-upgrade.85204
 
it was even better than that twin turbos failed causing metal shavings to go throughout the engine thankfully it was under my extended warranty so I got a brand new engine

I love the absolute bonkersness that is my (2003) allroad. I'm always worried that when I'm looking at an exploded diagram of some part of my car (suspension / engine / cupholder) that it'll cause my computer to explode. Amazingly robust and sublime when it all works, but hilarious when a pyrometer fails or a half-moon seal leaks or one of the computers gets flooded.

To bring this back to Tesla, I do sometimes question the engineering decisions behind reinventing door handles or shoving all the UI behind a giant non-automotive qualified screen, but .... when it all works it is sublime.
 
I love the absolute bonkersness that is my (2003) allroad. I'm always worried that when I'm looking at an exploded diagram of some part of my car (suspension / engine / cupholder) that it'll cause my computer to explode. Amazingly robust and sublime when it all works, but hilarious when a pyrometer fails or a half-moon seal leaks or one of the computers gets flooded.

To bring this back to Tesla, I do sometimes question the engineering decisions behind reinventing door handles or shoving all the UI behind a giant non-automotive qualified screen, but .... when it all works it is sublime.
: ) Indeed.
So are you happy with your Tesla? Would you get a newer one someday or keep this one "forever"?
 
: ) Indeed.
So are you happy with your Tesla? Would you get a newer one someday or keep this one "forever"?

I dislike the limited visibility out of the S. I dislike owning something so expensive that I would feel bad if it got scratched up. I dislike that it is slightly tricky to get in / out of the S because of the shape of the doors.

Thus far it seems to be holding up pretty well; it still looks sharp and drives very well and is tight and quiet inside.

Assuming that it asks me for relatively little in the way of maintenance I expect and hope to keep the car until it is 15-20 years old, or longer.

Next on the "new car chopping block" is my wife's 2013 Q5 which is still holding together very nicely and she likes it quite a lot, so we may be on the market in 0-10 years depending on how long it takes for something very expensive on it to break.
 
I love the absolute bonkersness that is my (2003) allroad. I'm always worried that when I'm looking at an exploded diagram of some part of my car (suspension / engine / cupholder) that it'll cause my computer to explode. Amazingly robust and sublime when it all works, but hilarious when a pyrometer fails or a half-moon seal leaks or one of the computers gets flooded.

To bring this back to Tesla, I do sometimes question the engineering decisions behind reinventing door handles or shoving all the UI behind a giant non-automotive qualified screen, but .... when it all works it is sublime.
Don't forget the ABS modules, ECUs & assorted other electrical gremlins!

This is one of my personal favorites when people say that an Audi is "comparable" when coming up with similar vehicles to compare. Clearly none of these people have owned Audi vehicles before. We had 5 of them over the years and the problems were regular and expensive. When I see people compare a Model S to a new Audi S7 I just laugh to myself because it proves just how much better a Tesla is if that's the comparable.
 
I dislike the limited visibility out of the S. I dislike owning something so expensive that I would feel bad if it got scratched up. I dislike that it is slightly tricky to get in / out of the S because of the shape of the doors.

Thus far it seems to be holding up pretty well; it still looks sharp and drives very well and is tight and quiet inside.

Assuming that it asks me for relatively little in the way of maintenance I expect and hope to keep the car until it is 15-20 years old, or longer.

Next on the "new car chopping block" is my wife's 2013 Q5 which is still holding together very nicely and she likes it quite a lot, so we may be on the market in 0-10 years depending on how long it takes for something very expensive on it to break.
so you mentioned difficult to get in and out of so I'm a big guy 6 foot 2 about 280 and I can squeeze into the S7 okay how would I do with the S I have test driven a brand new one and that seemed fine how does that compare to the older models
 
so you mentioned difficult to get in and out of so I'm a big guy 6 foot 2 about 280 and I can squeeze into the S7 okay how would I do with the S I have test driven a brand new one and that seemed fine how does that compare to the older models

I'm pretty sure that all S models are the same WRT getting in and out. If you're fine with a new one in the not-a-dealerships you'll be fine with a not-a-CPO used one. I find getting in and out slightly awkward (I'm not quite 6 feet) because the pillars are huge and the frame rail is very deep/wide; my brother-in-law is missing a leg and he has a much harder time getting in. I think the "open door, fall butt first into car, swing legs into car" process is different levels of difficult depending on circumstances. Some people attempt to go in head-first, and that ends up with the person trapped half way in and half way out unless they're pretty flexible. Going in one-leg first is also comical because your head smacks into the b pillar / roof unless you're extra bendy.
 
I'm pretty sure that all S models are the same WRT getting in and out. If you're fine with a new one in the not-a-dealerships you'll be fine with a not-a-CPO used one. I find getting in and out slightly awkward (I'm not quite 6 feet) because the pillars are huge and the frame rail is very deep/wide; my brother-in-law is missing a leg and he has a much harder time getting in. I think the "open door, fall butt first into car, swing legs into car" process is different levels of difficult depending on circumstances. Some people attempt to go in head-first, and that ends up with the person trapped half way in and half way out unless they're pretty flexible. Going in one-leg first is also comical because your head smacks into the b pillar / roof unless you're extra bendy.
Agreed! Thx for that. Unfortunately the model x glass roof windshield+ makes my wife dizzy so that one's out for me.
 
I have a road trip tomorrow so tonight I charged Tessie all the way. EPA range for this 2015 P90DL, built that August, is 253. Battery is V1. Mileage is 38,448. Software is 2019.40.2.3. Sometimes it charges over 260. A few times to 270. Whatever that means.


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