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JVC KD-NX5000 Removal & Replacement

Discussion in 'Roadster' started by Panicopticon, May 15, 2015.

  1. Panicopticon

    Panicopticon Member

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    A few weeks ago I made it around to removing the single DIN JVC navigation nightmare that came with my Roadster. I thought I'd provide some quick tips for anyone interested in doing the same.

    For starters, you may want to examine some photos of the radio assembly and main harness.

    For starters you should check out the installation guide, as it covers some of what you need to know to remove the radio. You'll probably want to acquire the installation/removal tool, which looks like this (this set has the required one, or this). The keys release the latches on the sides of the radio to unlock it from the radio sleeve, however this is not sufficient to remove the radio -- there are two hidden latches. They're located at on the top right and bottom left corners of the radio (I believe -- compare it against the photos I took). These can be released with a butter knife, credit card, thin/stiff plastic, etc. You may need to straighten the handle portions of removal tools to clear the dash trim, you'll hear a solid click when you've inserted them appropriately.

    At this point if you're lucky you should be able to remove the radio. In my case the radio was seized into the sleeve by a large quantity of road grit. You might be able to clear this using canned air (possibly with a bit of rubbing alcohol as a lubricant/release agent).

    In my case, I pulled the radio and sleeve out together. This was only possible because when the radio was installed the sleeve tabs weren't bent out to secure it (this may have been done intentionally to avoid the seizing issue). If you're going to attempt to pull the radio and sleeve out, masking tape the trim in the opening area so you don't mar the trim.

    With the radio out its a relatively easy job to install a new unit -- especially if you use a recent JVC or Kenwood unit, which will have the same primary cord (speakers, power, etc). I used a Kenwood KMM-BT308U (~$50), much more stable & easier to use than the original.

    If you wanted to replace the radio with something outside of the Kenwood/JVC family, you'd either need to cut the harness (which I'd recommend against) or source a compatible mate to the in dash connector (sometimes called a reverse harness -- I was unable to find one).

    I didn't bother to remove any of the additional modules associated with the KD-NX5000 (iPod, Bluetooth, Satellite Radio interfaces, GPS antenna), nor did I remove the reverse and hand brake wiring for the old radio. The additional modules were all powered by the old headunit, so they are effectively dead. I taped off the connectors to protect them. If you selected an appropriate JVC headunit these modules could be reused (though the BT is terrible), or see this thread for some information on how to fully remove them.

    Drop me a line if you have any questions...
     
  2. supersnoop

    supersnoop Tesla Roadster #334

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    Three notes:

    1. Some of the accessories are powered by a separate power source in the driver's side fender area. The Sirius integration module is plugged in there, and powers the Sirius module and iPod adapter.
    2. Here are instructions for removed the whole dash, which is required if you can't get the headunit out. Elise Dash Removal Instructions By EliseTalk’s Buzzy
    3. I "upgraded" to this head unit because it's the only single DIN unit I could find with navigation. And it seems to work great with the latest firmware installed.

    What did you replace it with?
     
  3. Panicopticon

    Panicopticon Member

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    I looked over the wiring diagrams I have, you're correct about the dedicated power line -- I should have checked that before. I'd thought the JVC Bus carried sufficient power to run everything, I was wrong.

    Mine NX-5000 very unstable, frequent lock ups, various weird error messages, even on the most recent firmware and maps. The NAV was useless (besides being difficult to enter addresses, etc) it would routinely be off on the location by 5-10 miles. Resetting/calibrating it would fix things for a day or two. All I can think is that the GPS module was failing and mucking up the convergence math. The Bluetooth would routinely unlink and jitter, but the one thing that absolutely drove me batty was the damned volume control buttons. I hated them with a fiery passion.

    Ultimately, the quality of nav from my phone is light years ahead of anything I could put in the dash, unless, I did the double DIN upgrade and installed a Newsmy NU3001 (which is a great piece of tech, and I totally recommend it).

    I replaced mine with a Kenwood KMM-BT308U.
     
  4. gregd

    gregd Member

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    I have the NXD-505, and it was doing much the same thing when I got the car last winter. Finally figured out that the connector behind the removable display wasn't seated quite right. Cleaned it off, re-seated it a few times, and the rig is working fine. Well, as fine as it's really bad user interface will allow. Still have times when the colors go kind of wonky, but a sharp tap or two with a finger center-display usually fixes it.
     
  5. Panicopticon

    Panicopticon Member

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    That, precisely that. IMO the unit is just poorly designed, had to go.

    I did discover that my usual error "Reset 08" is a likely a well known issue with the Sirius receiver, or less likely one of the other JVC BUS modules. In my case the radio would completely stop responding when that occurred.
     
  6. Msjulie

    Msjulie Member

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    My car has the 505 and the manual claims it has video input - has any one hooked anything up there? I found a too-cheap-to-not-try reverse camera that supposedly can plug into this thing. I take it from the above that both radios remove in essentially the same way..

    thanks for any other hints
     
  7. MileHighMotoring

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    If you want to wire up a camera with power and run a line to the back of the stereo, it'll work. There's a delay in starting up video in both the cameras and the video screen, so it's not going to be as quick or convenient as an OEM rear camera, but it would work. The problem is... do you want to drill into a Roadster? Or disassemble the interior to run a cable?
     
  8. Curt

    Curt Roadster Signature #55

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    ...and if you don't want to drill holes and run wiring, there is a completely wireless solution that works well with Roadsters. I've just started using it on my 1.5, and it's great!

    It consists of a rear license plate frame with two HD cameras and a small Car Adapter that does all of the video processing. There is a phone app to display the video, and it comes with a nice magnetic phone mount. The frame is solar powered, and the Adapter plugs in to the OBDII port for power.

    Pearl - No New Car Required

    There is a thread discussing it here: Wireless rear view camera that could be used on the 1.5 cars?
     
  9. Msjulie

    Msjulie Member

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    I won't drill, this cam mounts to the lic. plate. Taking about the interior doesn't worry me as long as I can find the best route/grommet to get cabling inside etc.

    I saw the above wireless solution which looks ok but I am a cheapskate and the cam is way less expensive and *supposedly* the JVC unit has video in... to be seen, worth the experimentation I figure
     
  10. supersnoop

    supersnoop Tesla Roadster #334

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    Yes, it has a video input and a wire for a reverse signal. You may need a wiring harness to connect the video input.
     
  11. dhrivnak

    dhrivnak Active Member

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    I guess I am an outlyer as I have been happy with the NX5000. The maps have worked great and the stereo is good to my old years. The only real complaint is the very crappy FM receiver. If you are more than 20 miles from the antenna forget it.
     
  12. gregd

    gregd Member

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    The 505 I have in my 2.0 Roadster happened to come with the separate pigtail cable for the video input. Unfortunately it was still in the box, not on the 505. Removing the 505 from the dash, after removing the face plate, required a pair of "keys" to release the unit from its mount. Those weren't in the box. I ended up using a pair of I/O slot covers from a random PC; anything about that size, flat, thin, and stiff, will do. Slide them in one on each side to release the retaining clips, then wiggle the unit forward. If you're lucky, the relevant cable will be hanging on the back. Likely it won't; see if you can find the original box or pile of cruft from the prior owner.

    The pigtail will have both a video in and out (for playing DVDs, apparently). I recall it also includes the Speed input, needed to enable the Navigation side to do anything. The original harness plugged directly into where the new pigtail went, so I had to hack a connection from that plug to the Speed signal input. I think I just stuck a wire into the appropriate socket hole, and taped it to the pigtail input wire. I don't recall where the Reverse signal comes from - mine isn't currently connected, so I have to select the video display manually. (Hit Disp twice; there are settings in the menu to enable it.)

    Getting the video wire to the back of the car is a challenge I have not completed as yet. I was able to fish the video wire out the driver side of the dash by taping a stiff wire around the wire that connects to the Bluetooth, Sirius, and iPod module chain to the radio. I made a loop of tape around the module wire, sticky side out, wrapping it loosely around the wire so it would slide easily, then around the fish wire, so pushing the fish wire through the dash would follow the module cable. I don't recall if I started at the radio and worked down, or from behind the Headlight switch panel and worked up. That wire then becomes a pull wire for the video cable. Once behind the headlight switch panel, you're supposed to run it through the chase under the door sil, but I haven't done that yet as it's blocked. I think there's another thread somewhere on the subject, but it amounts to pushing something stiff through the foam with the video wire in tow. Doesn't sound like fun.

    My camera is currently taped to the roll bar at the top inside the back window. Not as useful as it should be. Besides the poor physical location not at the rear of the car, I find it hard to see anything useful with the wide-angle view on the small in-dash display. I hardly use it; probably won't bother fishing the wire the rest of the way to the back. But, maybe your camera and display will work better. Good luck!
     
  13. Msjulie

    Msjulie Member

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    Thanks for the info! Sounds like my next information quest is the reverse signal; the camera itself just shows splicing into a wire but I don't want to do that just yet
     
  14. gregd

    gregd Member

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    Reverse should be in the same plug as the Speed signal, as they both are on the same pigtail with the Video in and out, and whatever "OE Remote" is. I just don't remember if it's there, and I didn't want it wired through (didn't want to require Reverse to activate the display) because I am playing with feeding video from a Raspberry Pi into the display. In hind sight, I believe you can always hit the Display button to force it, so I should have spent the time to wire it through. I guess what I'm saying is that if Reverse is present in the original wiring harness, you should be able to pick it up from that same plug that you will be removing from the radio in order to use the new pigtail for the video input. I just don't remember if it was there or not. Oh, and since you have a 1.5 (mine is a 2.0), your wiring harness will probably be different!

    If you don't have it, here's that section of the 505 wiring diagram.

    JVC-505 Wiring.jpg
     
  15. Msjulie

    Msjulie Member

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    Thanks, I do have the JVC wiring. There must be a relay to tap someplace near the gear lever in the car to tell it reverse but I've yet to pull anything apart just yet.
     
  16. slcasner

    slcasner Member

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    In my early 1.5 (VIN #33), the reverse signal must not be connected because the navigation dead reckoning assumes the car is moving forward even when it is in reverse. As a result, when I back into my garage the nav system shows my car being across the street.
     
  17. Msjulie

    Msjulie Member

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    Hmm now I am even more determined to figure out where this is :)
     
  18. supersnoop

    supersnoop Tesla Roadster #334

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    I don't think the car has a reverse signal wire. It's something you'd have to wire up yourself.
     
  19. Msjulie

    Msjulie Member

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    Yep it seems so - there has to be an easy place i would think since i've got that stick shift lever which must be connected to a relay..
     
  20. Habious

    Habious Member

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    Worst case scenario, can't you tap into the backup lights (that only come on when the car is in reverse)? You're running wires from the passenger cabin to the back of the car anyway (for the camera feed), right?
     

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