Keeping parts available without needing Tesla!

[dhrivnak]

I agree the struts are not likely Tesla specific but at least her auto parts stores are a bit lost without a computer number. There are hundreds of options and so perusing the parts bin is slow as they are normally in boxes. So there is no easy way to cross check or reference.

 

[shrink]

The soft top rails are not Tesla specific and should be easy to get used or from a Lotus dealer. Even the aftermarket supply shops carry them:
Elise Parts - Bodywork & Styling - Roofs & Covers - S2 Soft Top Bar

Good to know. Thanks. I always worry I'm going to break one.

 

[green1]

I agree the struts are not likely Tesla specific but at least her auto parts stores are a bit lost without a computer number. There are hundreds of options and so perusing the parts bin is slow as they are normally in boxes. So there is no easy way to cross check or reference.

I can't help you on a Tesla cross-reference, however I've worked with ones for a Mitsubishi Delica, and shops were able to both re-fill old ones, and find new ones based simply on length measurement without any cross-reference numbers.

 

[hcsharp]

I agree the struts are not likely Tesla specific but at least her auto parts stores are a bit lost without a computer number. There are hundreds of options and so perusing the parts bin is slow as they are normally in boxes. So there is no easy way to cross check or reference.

There's another thread on this if you search for it. I don't think the guy ever found exactly the right struts but can't remember. I would try some different shops because some of them can search based on length and diameter of gas chamber.

 

[wiztecy]

There's another thread on this if you search for it. I don't think the guy ever found exactly the right struts but can't remember. I would try some different shops because some of them can search based on length and diameter of gas chamber.

Similar Thread:
trunk lid lift supports

This one looks promising and only $15:
Stabilus Master Lift 20 Center to Center | eBay

Its made by Stabilus, the same manufacturer. They say it measures 20" center to center. I presume that's extended. If so that's exactly where the one on the Roadster sits when extended. You may want to ask the guy if he can get the same one that's on the Roadster.

Here's the numbers off the Roadster's strut:
Made by Stabilus in Germany.
Believe this is the true part number - 6794 YD 0180N 049/09 DC 14

The number below that one is: C126B6004F

The "0180N" number is similar in the ebay listing part number of: 4525 QV 0180N 332/11 C 15

Also you can try calling/emailing Stabilus and give them the numbers.

Usually you can just measure the extended length, compressed length, estimate the load and your good to go with finding a random strut that meets the spec. The Stabilus is a very good design, it has a spring inside the hydraulic body that helps lift the lid when temps are lower. Hence why the body is fatter than the traditional strut you find on regular car hoods and truck camper windows.

 

[ElectricLove]

I don't think anyone has convenient access to their headlight spacers... That's fine, I just decided to make a test size. It's probably not necessary to be exact on these but I estimated they are about 5mm thick and went off of that. Hopefully these will work, I'm printing them now and will be testing them on the car this afternoon.

Here is the CAD drawing.

If these work well, anybody who needs a set, let me know! Print time on a set of 6 (3 needed for each headlight) is ~ 60 minutes in solid ABS.

 

[rlang59]

Out of curiosity what modeling program are you using?

 

[ElectricLove]

Solidworks, but I'm just learning it really, I have some friends who are experienced with it and are assisting me whenever I need them!

Here is a photo of the printing process of these spacers!

- - - Updated - - -

Just tested this and the fit was just slightly too tight for the bolts so I revamped it... Here is the updated dimensions:

 

[ML Auto]

Both my cars have steel washers for the headlight shims. 1 1/8 diameter, 5/16 hole, .120 and .075 thick. They are the same size as the ones on the bolt from the underside. Judging by the small supports on the bottom of the headlight, I think anything plastic will squish out.

 

[dhrivnak]

Mine too were standard fender washers.

 

[ElectricLove]

Really! Sounds like I didn't need to go through the hassle of creating these shims then... .120" is probably the back 2 holes, right? And .075" is for the front one? After installing using my spacers the headlights point "up" too much so I'm thinking the front spacer must be shorter then the back 2. I'll try it with a smaller washer right now and see if it lines up better.

Thanks!

 

[ML Auto]

I have more than six shims from one car, so they were stacked to align the lights to the fender and bumper. Since your cars front was replaced, you might need to shim more than the lights to get it to fit.

 

[automixcars]

can I get a Solid Works file.or DXF file for my cnc then I will do them in solid aluminimum .

Kind regards Michael

 

[wycolo]

The hinges could be jigsawed from 20+mm alum plate.
--

 

[Gabner]

Yeah, exactly!

Wow, Carbon Fiber printing would be so phenomenal!!!

And, you guys are right that hinge image in the other thread means its clearly not ABS.

I did make a mock up of hinge already, in my CAD drawing I did design it to be slightly thicker than the stock one, I hadn't considered that the plastic itself may be weaker than the stock, in my mind making it just a mm or two bigger just seemed smart to do so its less likely to break... maybe I'll add another couple mm to it though with this "strength" concept in mind. I can also model the physics environment withing solidworks and apply both materials (assuming the fancy PAMXD6 stuff is in there!) and see how they hold up.

My first draft of the hinge looks good but I did it at a 50% honeycomb "in-fill" (meaning the inside of it is actually only 50% filled in a honeycomb pattern), on final build I'll go with 100% fill so its just a solid block. The hoods on these cars are pretty light so all of this strength talk may be unnecessary anyways, I'm not sure... Maybe the thing to do is build a pair at 50% infill and use them in the car, see how they feel, "slam" ("gently", don't call TPS on me!... TPS=Tesla Protective Services) the hood a few times and see if they hold up... Once its clipped in there isn't much weight on the hinges themselves and it'll be a non-issue until the hood needs to be opened again...

Here are a couple photos of my rough draft ABS 50% Honeycomb hinge!

View attachment 56275

View attachment 56276

I'm looking for this replacement part.
I broke the bracket that holds the front bonnet cover. (One of the two brackets that holds the bonnet when it's in the up position.)
See attached picture for the part number.
What are my options for replacement?

 

[hcsharp]

I'm looking for this replacement part.
I broke the bracket that holds the front bonnet cover. (One of the two brackets that holds the bonnet when it's in the up position.)
See attached picture for the part number.
What are my options for replacement?

Tesla could probably get that part for you. They dismantled a lot of cars so they could have parts inventory. I'm also pretty sure that Medlock has somebody making those parts for him. The OEM versions were not very good (as you discovered).

 

[Gabner]

Tesla could probably get that part for you. They dismantled a lot of cars so they could have parts inventory. I'm also pretty sure that Medlock has somebody making those parts for him. The OEM versions were not very good (as you discovered).

Thanks! I did find them on Carl's site. They are very nice carbon fiber replacements.