"Key Not Inside" even with new batteries/both fobs/etc

[whiplash82]

FWIW, I'm having the same problem with my 2018 100D. Aside from the above symptoms, summon also fails and the car doesn't move.

I disconnected the 12V battery (both negative and positive to be sure) and it didn't do anything. In fact, I was still able to remotely unlock the car/open doors/play music/blast AC. It did nothing for the key not inside error and I couldn't get the car to change to D with keyless driving.

 

[ohmman]

FWIW, I'm having the same problem with my 2018 100D. Aside from the above symptoms, summon also fails and the car doesn't move.

I disconnected the 12V battery (both negative and positive to be sure) and it didn't do anything. In fact, I was still able to remotely unlock the car/open doors/play music/blast AC. It did nothing for the key not inside error and I couldn't get the car to change to D with keyless driving.

Sorry to hear it. I'm assuming you've called for a ranger or tow? Mine hasn't acted back up again, if that makes you feel any better.

 

[whiplash82]

Yeah. Towed it yesterday morning and they fixed it within a few hours.

Here's the service note:
Verified customers concern. Pulled and reviewed diagnostic logs, found alerts indicating concern that the Center body controller was in a loop. Reset body controller and verified normal operation.

I notice the car cycles the lights randomly when I take out trash to the garage sometimes. Maybe it's related to the fobs being a few feet above the garage where the car is. Hopefully this is the last time as well.

 

[Peteybabes]

this happened to me and they replaced my key and the error hasn't come back since.

 

[jboy210]

Yeah. Towed it yesterday morning and they fixed it within a few hours.

Here's the service note:
Verified customers concern. Pulled and reviewed diagnostic logs, found alerts indicating concern that the Center body controller was in a loop. Reset body controller and verified normal operation.

I notice the car cycles the lights randomly when I take out trash to the garage sometimes. Maybe it's related to the fobs being a few feet above the garage where the car is. Hopefully this is the last time as well.

There are other thread here that suggest that having the fobs within proximity of the car causes issues. People mentioned have keys on hooks by their garage door as an issue. Some people keep their fobs in Faraday bags when not being used. I have my keys 20 feet from the car with 2 or 3 walls in between and inside a drawer. Not sure if it helps, but so far so good.

Except, the one time the car locked up at the store. Less than 100 miles on the car. 100+ day and big box to carry 3 miles home.

To fix that they trailered the car to SC. The tech disconnected (not cut) the 1st responder disconnect wire in the frunk (which 1st responders cut) which removed high voltage power. Then reconnected it and the car magically came back to life.

 

[mongo]

...
To fix that they trailered the car to SC. The tech disconnected (not cut) the 1st responder disconnect wire in the frunk (which 1st responders cut) which removed high voltage power. Then reconnected it and the car magically came back to life.

Side note: unless there was a SW bug with the car stuck in ON mode, HV was already off (contactors open). Opening the safety loop would prevent HV activation, allowing them to also pull the 12V battery feed for a total vehicle off state. Opening the safety loop may also trigger a more fully software/harware reset routine without removing 12V entirely...

 

[jajabor]

I had this exact problem couple of times in 2013. Tesla couldn't figure out what was going on. Finally, I found my son's PSP was causing interference. Everything worked after turning the PSP off.

 

[WillChen888]

New battery just put in and still this happens at least once a month. They keep saying if my phone is too close to the remote it interferes with the signal but by too close do they mean inside the car??? Its not like my keys are sitting on top of the phone so what the heck?!?

 

[anilbhan]

Symptoms: "Key Not Inside" error on screen (even though I replaced both FOB batteries a month ago); turn signals, hazard lights, frunk wouldn't fully release, items powered by the customer's switched 12V wire all didn't work. I was able to drive the car by using the Tesla app to start it, but all above didn't work when driving, so it was unsafe.

Fix: based on above postings, I disconnected the 12V battery ground and disconnected the emergency loop. Reconnected both and everything worked fine. Details on how to do this can be found on the web. You will need to remove the AC filter housing to get to both. Be sure you where goggles, a spark can be caused when disconnecting and reconnecting the 12V battery ground. Also be sure you completely roll down your driver door window before disconnecting either batteries power. Took me about 45 minutes.

 

[bikeandsail]

I have it happen periodically. Never kept me from being able to use the car in a few minutes but aggravating.

 

[Mizutaki]

Just had this problem yesterday on my 2018 X. Key inside car and exactly the same problems and error message as original post in this thread. Hubby did remote unlock and keyless driving on my Tesla app (left phone at home for ocean swim) but didn’t work. Tesla roadside assistance tried same and a full remote reboot to no avail. Hubby brought spare key to me but no use. Car was towed to Tesla. They fixed it but provided no explanation. Waiting to hear back from
Service Manager. Would be great to have reassurance this won’t happen again...on some remote trailhead! I see this problem mentioned on the Tesla Forum online.

 

[jboy210]

Just had this problem yesterday on my 2018 X. Key inside car and exactly the same problems and error message as original post in this thread. Hubby did remote unlock and keyless driving on my Tesla app (left phone at home for ocean swim) but didn’t work. Tesla roadside assistance tried same and a full remote reboot to no avail. Hubby brought spare key to me but no use. Car was towed to Tesla. They fixed it but provided no explanation. Waiting to hear back from
Service Manager. Would be great to have reassurance this won’t happen again...on some remote trailhead! I see this problem mentioned on the Tesla Forum online.

How old is the battery in the fob and was it replaced with the correct battery CR 2354? I am on the second battery on my 2018 Model X. I never got a warning to replaced the battery, but had a few times where the key was not detected before I replaced the 1st battery. Since they it has been fine. But, the battery is about a year old, so I may replace it again.

Some people try a CR2032 (same diameter but thinner) because the CR 2354 can be hard to find. It is not sold at most stores and the ones on Amazon sometimes have issues. Luckily Batteries-Plus has the right battery.

Also there is a procedure for unlocking and driving the car with a dead key fob battery. You need to put the fob in the places documented in the manual.

 

[Mizutaki]

Definitely the battery was dead on the fob that was in the car. However the battery in the alternate fob was fine. Also, I was not having any problems prior to this with my car being unable to detect the key, to give me any indication the battery was low. Tesla replaced the dead battery for me. But the main concern is that having a dead fob battery could completely disable your car! Totally negates the remote driving feature. Service later advised, “What happened was the immobilzer in your vehicle faulted and that in conjunction with a dead key fob battery meant that you got locked out of the car. The issue resolved itself with a reset of the immobilizer and firmware update.“ This is not quite accurate as I was not actually locked out of the car once it was remote unlocked; I just was unable to drive the car or even put it into drive D once I was inside, even with my alternate key fob. Additionally they said, “...it is a very unfortunate thing to happen but I can tell you that this is not to our knowledge a software issue caused by Firmware. In this case it seems to have been a glitch on the module that controls the immobilizer that resolved itself with a reset.”
So I guess you are right - the takeaway for now is to replace key fob batteries BEFORE you think they are dead!!

 

[boaterva]

I’ve had the car tell me when the fob batteries are getting low but I guess that’s not a guaranteed thing. Also; I get new batteries from Batteries Plus (they had to order them). Online sources (like Amazon) have often had old batteries (for the rarer Model X 2354). Several other threads here of when battery replacements didn’t work requiring Tesla to reset things (may be similar to this case).

 

[Scarface]

2016 Tesla Model S 70
Alarm today "Key not in car".
Key will still unlock / lock car when required and will open charge port. Noticed automatic door opening doesn't work!
Phone App will activate drive on the car when required.
Tried and changed both batteries.
Done a re-boot on the car!
So, nothings changed, therefore any home fix's and course of action you great guy's can recommend.
Thanks a lot in advance for any help.
Regards.

 

[HankLloydRight]

2016 Tesla Model S 70
Alarm today "Key not in car".
Key will still unlock / lock car when required and will open charge port. Noticed automatic door opening doesn't work!
Phone App will activate drive on the car when required.
Tried and changed both batteries.
Done a re-boot on the car!
So, nothings changed, therefore any home fix's and course of action you great guy's can recommend.
Thanks a lot in advance for any help.
Regards.

Holy cow --- the EXACT same things happened to me today. And I tried all the same attempts to fix it. 2014 P85D. Sounds like a Tesla systemic problem now.
I submitted a service request and mobile service will be here on Thursday. I suspect it will be an easy fix, but I have the ESA warranty so it's a $200 deductible.

Also, I've been holding out on the last version 10 of the firmware since I really, really, do not want to upgrade to V11!!! But I'm afraid that's the first thing they're going to do. I'm screwed both ways.

Are you on V10 firmware or V11? Perhaps this is Tesla slimy way to get people to upgrade off v10. I would not be the least bit surprised if this is the case.

 

[HankLloydRight]

Ok, I was able to fix this problem today.

I basically followed these instructions to just disconnect the 12v battery:

^^^^^ YOU MUST disconnect the fire responders loop first -- FOLLOW the video. ^^^^^^^

Once I disconnected the negative terminal of the 12v battery for 3 minutes, then re-connected and reversed the procedure, the car fired up and my key fobs work once again.

Tesla service all (and V11 software update) averted!!

 

[JCSD]

Hi all,

the same thing just happened to my 2016 model X. Fortunately I came across your video and disconnected the first responders loop and took off the negative terminal from the 12 V battery for three minutes as you suggested. Once I reassembled everything, the car was once again able to recognize both the key fobs.

 

[Vaillant]

Okay, I had the same problem (2017 X) and did the same fix (12V battery disconnect) and everything works now. But, what I want to know is for those that had the problem, did it come back or is it more of a once in a blue moon kind of thing?