For those who are in LA and stuck with LADWP...what's your take on simply doing TOU billing with no solar? I'm in a 3-5yr house, move in a few years, so I don't really want to invest in solar.
Essentially, before the Tesla (2 month cyles):
Winter: 1400-1500 kWh
Summer: 3000-3900 kWh
With the Tesla:
Winter: 1700-1900 kWh
Summer (est): 3500-4500 kWh
We're in an east/west facing house with direct sunlight in the afternoons that eclipses over the hill behind us and it's not getting much cooler. Someone is always home with the kids, our help, etc.
By pushing all the Tesla charging into the base period, I can certainly expect savings there, but is there a good model or calc to see the punishment of the 1-5pm hours in high peak? It seems like even if there's a little bit extra paid in summer for that usage, the overall cheaper rate the rest of the year makes sense (per cycle, we get 500 kWh in T1, 1000 kWh in T2 and the rest in T3, so we're always in T2 if not T3 now)? Goal is not to save a bunch of money (because we're talking between $100-150/cycle savings about), but if I can pay less, then why not...
Looking for advice from other owners who did not have solar and perhaps ran numbers before they opted to have LADWP replace their standard R1-A service with the TOU R1-B service.
Thanks in advance
Essentially, before the Tesla (2 month cyles):
Winter: 1400-1500 kWh
Summer: 3000-3900 kWh
With the Tesla:
Winter: 1700-1900 kWh
Summer (est): 3500-4500 kWh
We're in an east/west facing house with direct sunlight in the afternoons that eclipses over the hill behind us and it's not getting much cooler. Someone is always home with the kids, our help, etc.
By pushing all the Tesla charging into the base period, I can certainly expect savings there, but is there a good model or calc to see the punishment of the 1-5pm hours in high peak? It seems like even if there's a little bit extra paid in summer for that usage, the overall cheaper rate the rest of the year makes sense (per cycle, we get 500 kWh in T1, 1000 kWh in T2 and the rest in T3, so we're always in T2 if not T3 now)? Goal is not to save a bunch of money (because we're talking between $100-150/cycle savings about), but if I can pay less, then why not...
Looking for advice from other owners who did not have solar and perhaps ran numbers before they opted to have LADWP replace their standard R1-A service with the TOU R1-B service.
Thanks in advance