Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Late 2016 / Early 2017 S Owners: How Are Your Daytime Running Lights Holding Up?

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
1646792895116.png

Welp, driver's side DRL burned out. Both my headlights are revision D.

Maybe an odd question - but is there any way to speed up the process of the other side burning out? I really don't mind, but it drives me nuts that they are uneven now.

I tried a heat gun to heat up the inner part of the headlight while the DRLs were on but no luck.
 
Model S 100D 2017 here, noticed on Feb 2nd that the left side DRL started dimming from upper-inner-end ("J"). Took about a month for it to degrade to a point that the horizontal brow is now dead. Vertical segment ("J") is still alive, as is the LED-strip on the vertical part. Dunno about service history of the DRLs on this vehicle as I bought it used in 11-2021.

Right side is fine - looks a little lop sided, though. Will not be shelling >>1000 € to have a damned light fixed.
 
I'm on revision E and have had them for about 15 months. Warranty/lease expires in about 8 months time. I'm wondering about keeping the car, and DRL failure is my #1 concern. One question I have for the panel is do we know what causes the failure?
There's a lot of talk about heat and lack of heat syncs. Is this going to be related to how hot the units get? Maybe particularly when driving slowly on a hot day?
Another thing I've noticed is that if my car is plugged into a charger - whether or not it is actually charging (I think!) the edges of the DRLs are on at a very very low level (you can only see it when it's completely dark). Has anyone else seen this? Working as designed?
Finally, I guess some people approaching end of warranty might see the beginning of failure and wonder how to speed up the failure so they can get replacements before the 4 years are up!
 
  • Funny
Reactions: FlatSix911
I'm on revision E and have had them for about 15 months. Warranty/lease expires in about 8 months time. I'm wondering about keeping the car, and DRL failure is my #1 concern. One question I have for the panel is do we know what causes the failure?
There's a lot of talk about heat and lack of heat syncs. Is this going to be related to how hot the units get? Maybe particularly when driving slowly on a hot day?
Another thing I've noticed is that if my car is plugged into a charger - whether or not it is actually charging (I think!) the edges of the DRLs are on at a very very low level (you can only see it when it's completely dark). Has anyone else seen this? Working as designed?
Finally, I guess some people approaching end of warranty might see the beginning of failure and wonder how to speed up the failure so they can get replacements before the 4 years are up!
If you keep the car and you are afraid of DRL failure start looking for G revision on ebay and keep them on hand as they are the newer and has not failed for me. Being on while the car charging or not is not something i've seen or heard of.
 
  • Like
Reactions: thewinelake
I'm on revision E and have had them for about 15 months. Warranty/lease expires in about 8 months time. I'm wondering about keeping the car, and DRL failure is my #1 concern. One question I have for the panel is do we know what causes the failure?
There's a lot of talk about heat and lack of heat syncs. Is this going to be related to how hot the units get? Maybe particularly when driving slowly on a hot day?
Another thing I've noticed is that if my car is plugged into a charger - whether or not it is actually charging (I think!) the edges of the DRLs are on at a very very low level (you can only see it when it's completely dark). Has anyone else seen this? Working as designed?
Finally, I guess some people approaching end of warranty might see the beginning of failure and wonder how to speed up the failure so they can get replacements before the 4 years are up!

The LEDs heat up and unsolder themselves from the board, melting the plastic tubing around them in the process. I don't think that driving in heat makes it much worse.

The behavior of the LEDs staying on a dim level is normal.
 
If you keep the car and you are afraid of DRL failure start looking for G revision on ebay and keep them on hand as they are the newer and has not failed for me. Being on while the car charging or not is not something i've seen or heard of.
I raised this with a mobile engineer a couple of weeks ago and he said that they'd just halved the price of new units (to about £600 each, fitted) in recognition of the fact that they were failing so often. So I'm half as stressed about it now as I was!
 
I just picked up a set of G's from ebay, seller had 10 pairs for $489.99 brand new. User name parts_link item 304477398315
My only question in this situation is where did the seller get 10 pairs of brand new parts???

My company had the experience a several years ago of shipping some prototype automotive assemblies to our OEM customer, only to have part of the shipment go missing. A short time later someone spotted one of the missing items for sale on eBay. In our case parts were easily identifiable by unique serial numbers. Needless to say the case was quickly handed over to the FBI as it involved pirating of parts shipped across international boarders.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: SO16
After seeing the post about the 10 pairs on Ebay, I grabbed a set myself. Late 2017 S. My left headlight eyebrow has been out for over a year now, and the right one was replaced 3 years ago for a different issue with a D revision, so I have been diving with an "imbalanced" eyebrows for a while now. I knew the right would fail eventually (and then they'd at least finally match), but haven't seen any sign of it failing and $500 for a G pair was too good an offer imo.

There was definitely no sticker on them proving they were G revision, so I'm taking that mostly on faith that the seller knew what they were. They definitely looked brand new with no blemishes or issues, so I can't imagine they'd NOT be the newest revision. Was an easy 2-3 hour job to swap them out.

Biggest thing is I adjusted the beam height on my last set to a much better height at night, so I made sure I marked the wall and adjusted the new ones to match. Need to drive at night to make sure the air suspension didn't change the actual height and that it's still good. I'm certainly happy knowing my expensive car is now back to a more pristine state.
 
  • Informative
  • Like
Reactions: byeLT4 and outdoors