Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Late 2016 / Early 2017 S Owners: How Are Your Daytime Running Lights Holding Up?

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
I got the headlights replaced in June 2018 by Tesla with part numbers LH (1065041-00-D) and RH (1065042-00-D).

They failed.

Now Tesla is telling me based on my VIN to use LH 1065041-00-B and RH 1065042-00-B.

Wouldn’t installing the B version be even worse quality than the D version that failed?

Help from anyone is greatly appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • A8918615-AF38-4DDC-9836-9BF7BB143401.png
    A8918615-AF38-4DDC-9836-9BF7BB143401.png
    511.8 KB · Views: 941
  • 5FE53050-30B3-4AD5-A390-BF830BE63B52.jpeg
    5FE53050-30B3-4AD5-A390-BF830BE63B52.jpeg
    382.7 KB · Views: 192
I got the headlights replaced in June 2018 by Tesla with part numbers LH (1065041-00-D) and RH (1065042-00-D).

They failed.

Now Tesla is telling me based on my VIN to use LH 1065041-00-B and RH 1065042-00-B.

Wouldn’t installing the B version be even worse quality than the D version that failed?

Help from anyone is greatly appreciated.
Seems fishy to me, you should ask if this B version is newer or older and why the D version is installed if the correct one is B and ask them to pay for it if D is the wrong version. But I think the signature light is just aesthetic, the actual DRL is the head lamp itself, lots of money to throw away if it only lasts less than 2 years. You may as well check ebay and install it yourself.
 
I called my local Tesla dealership and got everything straightened out.

I was told that the E version is the latest ones that will work with my Model S.

Hopefully, the quality is better than the D version that I am replacing.

Has anybody used the E version?

Any issues with the E version burning out or dimming too?
 
Seems fishy to me, you should ask if this B version is newer or older and why the D version is installed if the correct one is B and ask them to pay for it if D is the wrong version. But I think the signature light is just aesthetic, the actual DRL is the head lamp itself, lots of money to throw away if it only lasts less than 2 years. You may as well check ebay and install it yourself.
I asked why they installed the D last time when my VIN says to use the B version…they told me that they install whatever version they have in the service center if it is compatible with the vehicle.
 
I just had my driver side headlight replaced by mobile service (under the used vehicle warranty) and they used the latest “G” version for my 2016.5 Model S. The top part of my DRL was dimming and thought they might decline the replacement upon arrival but was completed, no problem.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: SO16
I just had my driver side headlight replaced by mobile service (under the used vehicle warranty) and they used the latest “G” version for my 2016.5 Model S. The top part of my DRL was dimming and thought they might decline the replacement upon arrival but was completed, no problem.
That’s odd…I was told that G can be used only on Models that have the Matrix headlights.

I am confused.
 
Add me to the list... Had right MS (June 2016 delivery) headlight replaced around 30k for the DRL “brown out” issue. Just took our MS on a road trip and went over 50k a week ago and just noticed my left DRL is now half out too. :(

At least I’m happy to see that range mode turns them off - not sure if I’m going to pay $1000 to fix this...
The range mode turn them off? It doesn’t do that on my MS… 🤷
 
Well. I decided to be the Guinea Pig. I successfully eliminated my DRLs without using range mode and here’s how I did it:

First, I disconnected the DRL wire to the headlight. This caused the blinkers to hyper flash and the headlights now wouldn’t turn off and brights disabled. No good.

After some playing around, I lowered the bumper cover on each side to access the side port in the headlights. I don’t know what size the bolts are but they aren’t torqued and easily removable with a pair of vice grips.

Once the side port is open, I disconnected the top plug to the DRL. Now everything functions fine. Blinkers don’t hyper flash, brights work, no error messages, everything works as it should. The DRLs are now permanently off.

Some headlights have 2 sets of wire connectors and some have 3. You can play around with disconnecting each set until the DRL is disconnected and the blinker works as it should.

I’m tired of buying a new headlight every year. It’s stupid. Would I like to have my DRLs? Sure. However, disabling the lights all together looks so much better than uneven ugly DRLs. At some point I may mess around with the spare headlights to see if I can add aftermarket LEDs but for now, I think this is the best solution.
 

Attachments

  • 8C387ACA-5784-4620-AA70-276606882A6C.jpeg
    8C387ACA-5784-4620-AA70-276606882A6C.jpeg
    419 KB · Views: 177
  • 85FB4B64-ED0C-4D45-9076-6475DFC61602.jpeg
    85FB4B64-ED0C-4D45-9076-6475DFC61602.jpeg
    488.9 KB · Views: 194
  • EB05E993-C0A6-46C3-865B-093F77091417.jpeg
    EB05E993-C0A6-46C3-865B-093F77091417.jpeg
    467.9 KB · Views: 198
  • 7296B3B5-5E26-49C2-ADAF-5A90A756D460.jpeg
    7296B3B5-5E26-49C2-ADAF-5A90A756D460.jpeg
    556.9 KB · Views: 198
  • EEAD4A52-30F8-44C9-A8AB-B712E18D8E1A.jpeg
    EEAD4A52-30F8-44C9-A8AB-B712E18D8E1A.jpeg
    469.6 KB · Views: 215
Last edited:
Well. I decided to be the Guinea Pig. I successfully eliminated my DRLs without using range mode and here’s how I did it:

First, I disconnected the DRL wire to the headlight. This caused the blinkers to hyper flash and the headlights now wouldn’t turn off and brights disabled. No good.

After some playing around, I lowered the bumper cover on each side to access the side port in the headlights. I don’t know what size the bolts are but they aren’t torqued and easily removable with a pair of vice grips.

Once the side port is open, I disconnected the top plug to the DRL. Now everything functions fine. Blinkers don’t hyper flash, brights work, no error messages, everything works as it should. The DRLs are now permanently off.

Some headlights have 2 sets of wire connectors and some have 3. You can play around with disconnecting each set until the DRL is disconnected and the blinker works as it should.

I’m tired of buying a new headlight every year. It’s stupid. Would I like to have my DRLs? Sure. However, disabling the lights all together looks so much better than uneven ugly DRLs. At some point I may mess around with the spare headlights to see if I can add aftermarket LEDs but for now, I think this is the best solution.
Why not just have a headlight company modify them for you? I'm having that done. It's absolutely ridiculous that Tesla thinks it's OK to continually churn out garbage "new versions" that burn out in the same time frame.
 
I recently had a headlight (with burned out DRL) replaced (with G revision) under warranty. Now, I can’t help but notice that the older headlight is more yellow and less bright…but it’s not burned out. I’m thinking I’ll try my luck to see if they’ll replace it under warranty before my coverage expires.

Has anyone been through this scenario?
 
Expired.

Most of the people with burnt DRL are out of warranty. Since the issue occurs after long usage.
Yeah I would think there would be a class action or some sort of complaint into nhtsa on this issue. Pretty shitty buying a 100k$ car and having this issue every year like clockwork. People not having the issue seem to never drive their cars. I paid 4k to replace both of my front headlights on my p85d for simply having a blast out.... Now I'm having to do it on my p100d I just got. So stupid. I'm replacing them with modified stock ones that have aftermarket LED system. Guaranteed for my ownership. $1k plus my own time for Uninstall then reinstall. I bought a janky set from ebay so I don't have any downtime for $450.