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Leaking 4-way valve

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So is this something I should order and just do myself? I'm pretty handy. and I opened up my frunk and found that mine is leaking. Looks easy to do other than the purge part of the manual. If it's just a "try not to lose too much and hook it back up and you are fine" then I'm totally ok doing it. The manual says to use Toolbox and do a Coolant Air Purge. Obviously I don't have access to that.

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stevem, which manual, and what is toolbox and a coolant air purge?
 
Update: I ended up replacing the valve this weekend. After examining it more closely, there was significant fluid on the back of the valve, near the manifold. The hose connections themselves seemed to be dry. So my best guess was that the leak was coming from where the manifold attaches to the valve assembly.

Replacing it was a bit messy but straightforward. I clamped off each of the hoses, although none sealed perfectly. Working fast I lost a few quarts of coolant.

I drove around extensively on Saturday to help bleed the system and, after the level initially dropped, it has been holding steady.
Hi, did you have to disconnect the battery for a straight job like this?
 
I did. And I would certainly recommend it due to the fact that the cooling pumps can turn on at any time. It could really make a mess if you don’t.
Yes of course understood. Having a March 16 AP1 Car RWD the battery and terminals are tucked well out the way under the bulk head. Is there another way which is easier to disconnect the 12v supply? All the 2012 - 2016 cars must be like this! There is a bunch of terminals just a bit forward of the bulk and i believe the mobile tech once disconnected the 12v system here, but I can't remember how he did so was hoping for some advise / pictures on how to disconnect. otherwise the mechanical bit I'm okay with.
 
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Battery position later models! My Battery behind and under bulkhead!
 
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Yes of course understood. Having a March 16 AP1 Car RWD the battery and terminals are tucked well out the way under the bulk head. Is there another way which is easier to disconnect the 12v supply? All the 2012 - 2016 cars must be like this! There is a bunch of terminals just a bit forward of the bulk and i believe the mobile tech once disconnected the 12v system here, but I can't remember how he did so was hoping for some advise / pictures on how to disconnect. otherwise the mechanical bit I'm okay with.
I had a 2015 70D, so my layout may have been different. But I had to disconnect BOTH the negative terminal from the battery and the first responder loop to totally kill power. I know there are service manuals floating around online, especially for the Model S. You should be able to locate one with a fairly brief search.
 
I had a 2015 70D, so my layout may have been different. But I had to disconnect BOTH the negative terminal from the battery and the first responder loop to totally kill power. I know there are service manuals floating around online, especially for the Model S. You should be able to locate one with a fairly brief search.
Don't understand both negative terminals?
 
I had a slow leak under my car. When I say "slow leak," I mean if I left it over a weekend there'd be rather small puddle of blue fluid. The fluid was clearly more viscous than washer fluid so I figured it was the coolant. I never got a warning light indicating low fluid. I took it to Tesla and they diagnosed it as a leaking 4 way coolant valve. They replaced it under warranty, 2020 Model S Performance.