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Leaking coolant

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My CPO Roadster #474 is leaking coolant already. I just picked it up from Menlo Park two days ago. The reservoir is below min and there is a small 3inch diameter puddle of coolant near the rear wheel directly below the reservoir. Should I drive it to service or have them come pick it up?
It's a 30 mile trip to the nearest dealer.
 
That's odd that it leaking coolant... Best to call Tesla and let them advise the right route to bring it back in. You could drive it in but carefully monitor the battery temps, if you can still see coolant in the reservoir you should be ok... but if you don't know the root of the leak there could be a failure that may dump all the coolant out while you're on your drive.

Curious, where abouts is it leaking? Can you shine a flashlight with the trunk open and down also look from either side of the rear wheels towards the inside of the pack. The cooling lines also run along the passenger side of the Roadster to the front as well as across the bottom of the battery pack itself.
 
wiztecy:
The coolant leak appears to be from the 0.5 inch pipe that plugs into the bottom of the reservoir.
Nothing is leaking along the passenger side that I can tell.
What cruising battery temp should I be looking for?
Thanks!
 
wiztecy:
The coolant leak appears to be from the 0.5 inch pipe that plugs into the bottom of the reservoir.
Nothing is leaking along the passenger side that I can tell.
What cruising battery temp should I be looking for?
Thanks!

The battery temp is fine as long as it stays in the Dark Blue / Light Blue blocks. I'd be a little hesitant to drive it if its in the yellow blocks right after the last light blue block on the Temperature VDS screen. You can also call Tesla to see what type of coolant it takes, its nothing special. You can pick up some of that coolant, top it off, and drive it into Tesla's shop if you're comfortable.
 
The battery temp is fine as long as it stays in the Dark Blue / Light Blue blocks. I'd be a little hesitant to drive it if its in the yellow blocks right after the last light blue block on the Temperature VDS screen. You can also call Tesla to see what type of coolant it takes, its nothing special. You can pick up some of that coolant, top it off, and drive it into Tesla's shop if you're comfortable.

It uses a standard PG (propylene glycol, not the toxic ethylene glycol) fluid which was a bit more expensive but not by much.
I drove it over to the Menlo Park service and battery temps stayed blue, though at the upper end of blue.
The PEM stayed at the top end of the blue throughout but it does not seem to use any coolant for cooling.
It turned out to be a leaky reservoir which they replace in about an hour. I was very surprised that they
had the reservoirs in stock.
 
Damn. I have a coolant leak leak also. My leak appears to be coming from the larger black pipe that runs about 10” from the reservoir and connects to something just behind the passenger door. It looks tough to access.

I also noticed that 2 of the orange electrical lines near the coolant reservoir are frayed from rodent chewing. Add that to the bill. Any estimates on what the repair will cost?
 
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Damn. I have a coolant leak leak also. My leak appears to be coming from the larger black pipe that runs about 10” from the reservoir and connects to something just behind the passenger door. It looks tough to access.

I also noticed that 2 of the orange electrical lines near the coolant reservoir are frayed from rodent chewing. Add that to the bill. Any estimates on what the repair will cost?
Seems like Tesla made the wrong choice in picking the less-toxic coolant... Hope the rodents didn't get to any of the other wiring, or build a nest inside somewhere.
 
Damn. I have a coolant leak leak also. My leak appears to be coming from the larger black pipe that runs about 10” from the reservoir and connects to something just behind the passenger door. It looks tough to access.

I also noticed that 2 of the orange electrical lines near the coolant reservoir are frayed from rodent chewing. Add that to the bill. Any estimates on what the repair will cost?

The orange power cables consist of the main core surrounded by insulation, a braided ground, and then the outer orange cover, so you will be fine if you just use some tape or heat shrink tubing over the frayed part. That is unless they chewed through the ground into the insulation under it. The car wont activate if it detects any electrical leakage between the core and the braided ground, so as long as the insulation is undamaged there is no risk of shock.
 
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The orange power cables consist of the main core surrounded by insulation, a braided ground, and then the outer orange cover, so you will be fine if you just use some tape or heat shrink tubing over the frayed part. That is unless they chewed through the ground into the insulation under it. The car wont activate if it detects any electrical leakage between the core and the braided ground, so as long as the insulation is undamaged there is no risk of shock.
The problem is that now that the car’s been towed to the TSC, they will certainly want to replace everything with new parts. I just started to get the annual service nag screens indicating Service is due in 3w. I might as well add that to the bill.

I hope to have some answers early this week.
 
My original 2008 roadster #116 had the exact same problem. A small crack in the battery manifold. Wasn't a large leak...more like a drip...drip...drip...

It took them 3 weeks to manufacture the part and it was about 1500 in parts and labor. I drove it for a while and just kept coolant in the trunk to top it off when needed. FINALLY gave it and just had the thing fixed along with the annual maintenance.

haven't had any issues with my 2011 with leaks, just MULTIPLE TPMS failures and replacements which seem to be common.

Good luck!
 
Just had the same issue.
The pipe and clamp have been changed
By th SC now.


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