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Out of interest, which logger did you order?All of my range charges can be found in the MaxRange Tesla Battery Survey sheet. Search for jpet
I have ordered a CAN bus logger because I want to get beyond the calculated Tesla rated range figure and I also want to get a better understanding of why / when my car gets power limited when I push it.
Out of interest, which logger did you order?
@HankLloydRight @artsci
I'm shocked that no one has looked into the CAN2 body bus, it was the second thing I played around with after I got started with all this, the lower speed coupled with low message/sec count make it pretty easy to figure out. Almost everything on the wish list is present on that bus. I think Danal was doing the electronics for the appliqué but if you want to put me in touch with whoever does the programming I will gladly help them integrate the CAN side of things, I also may have a lead on which trunk wires to tap into to get access to the CAN2 bus. Plus we only need to look at maybe 3 ID's on one bus so with hardware ID filtering an 8-bit micro should work fine.
Link to my CAN2 decodes Tesla Model S CAN IDs - CAN2 - Body.csv
Awesome. Danal did the Arduino hardware and the onboard firmware for the Applique controller. He'd be the best one to figure out what's needed to take a CAN bus inputs to filter and use as triggers. If he can't help out, I'm sure what he did was pretty straightforward -- although the programming for the Applique itself is pretty complex with the timing and colors. As a last resort, we could have a second Arduino to read the CAN bus and then trigger the +12v inputs to the Applique controller.
Actually... this was discussed back when the Applique controller was developed. See post #192 in the original thread. The concern was that tapping the CAN bus was "too intrusive" and would "raise the ire" of Tesla, possibly even voiding the warranties of vehicles where this was done.
Yeah, now that you mention it, that does sound vaguely familiar, and I now remember the arguments against it.
But say we tap the CAN bus connector under the touchscreen and run one cable back to the controller, it would be very easy to open up the panel and disconnect the CAN connector and hide the other end before going in for any service. No taps, no problem, and the Applique could still work with just the mobile app.
Or even better (and more expensive) have a BT-LE connection between wherever the CAN tap is, and the Applique module, and then we can just pull the CAN sending unit before any service visit.
Let's find one in the back of the car. The current install instructions say to pick up 12V from "pin 8" of the liftgate control module, a RD-GY wire. This module is in the starboard side of the trunk area.
A little birdie just told me this same module's Pin 3, WT-BR, is CAN+ and Pin 13, BR, is CAN- for the body control can bus. I'm just not absolutely certain that the little birdie's nomenclature of "Body Control CAN Bus" is the same as CAN2 referenced in this forum. If it is, this will be trivially easy.
I will probably not be able to take my car apart and physically verify until about 3 days from now, if anyone wants to check in the meanwhile.
What are the chances of obtaining the male and female versions of the connector to build a tap cable that can be put in without having to physically tap any of the wires?
What are the chances of obtaining the male and female versions of the connector to build a tap cable that can be put in without having to physically tap any of the wires?
Pretty simple. Most of Tesla's connectors are pretty standard. I was actually going to suggest this until I saw you had already suggested it.
Also, it's worth noting, for the record, that tapping a line or anything like that can not legally void your warranty. You're quite literally allowed to do whatever modifications you want to your car. It is your car (unless you leased). If those modifications don't cause any problems, then there are not any legal warranty problems. The only time warranty issues come into play would be if your modification were the cause of damage/failure of a part that is under warranty. I think Tesla would be pretty hard pressed to prove that tapping a couple of lines and reading some CAN data would cause damage to something that is under warranty, especially if it were done with a male and female connector in front of a minor module like suggested.
I to have a little "birdie", he gave me some more specific information, it looks as though everything you need is available in a spot that you are already tapping into. To answer your question, yes CAN2 is the body bus (which runs at 125kb/s).
Power Connector: molex_31372-1000
CAN2 Signal Connector: jae_mx34020sf1
CAN2+ = Pin3 BR/WH
CAN2- = Pin13 BR
12V Fused at 30A (cabin fuse box 2) = Pin8 RD/GY
GND = Pin7 BK
Anyway, that's all history. I've already ordered a couple of different CAN chip breakout boards for some experimentation. Since the module is likely to be interested in a very small subset of messages, I want to go cheap, yet still with something that can filter before events hit the MCU.
I think the previous fervor came from one or two users who had installed the Mobile-Eye unit...
On my two previous hardtop convertibles (MB SLK and BMW Z4 -- both now sold),I had installed a "SmartTop" controller, which did read and inject messages into the CAN and provide other convenience features related to raising and lowering the top. Since it changed the way the open/close buttons work, it included a "service" mode that disabled all features for when the car was to go in for service, so the dealers' computers wouldn't detect it, and the buttons would operate to OEM spec. Unless the service center popped open the remote areas where the units were installed, they'd never know it was there.
Tesla can say anything they want, but they don't write the laws they have to follow.Most of it came from an individual, an attorney who had a very low serial number (don't remember if it was a signature or just after) who'd had to have several things flat out replaced. I seem to remember the whole charge port was replaced twice. Anyway, apparently the service center gave him more than a little grief about some factory parts that were shipped on later versions of the car, and "retro-fitted" to his car. Seemed a bit strange.
OK So I've pulled some logs and just had a quick mess through some stuff.
First thing was to have a poke around the lifetime stats. Some of it is quite interesting!
- Battery total miles is 13,708 miles however my car only has 12,291 miles on the clock (weird!!)
- Lifetime discharge is at 6,539 kWh (vs. 6,977kWh charged). This puts total Wh/mi at 530Wh/mi vs my lifetime average on the display which is 350Wh/mi.
Message ID 0x0382 has the following data: 4D 72 67 9D 76 0 70 24
Which if my code is right equates to my 60 having 59.8kWh of battery (So pretty much as advertised, unlike the 77kWh figure we've seen reported from the 85kWh packs )
Interestingly all the remaining figures tally with 77-78% of the 59.8kWh figure which is what the dash was reading. Energy buffer seems set at 2.8kWh.
I did a 0-60 run, but it certainly won't be as impressive as the PxxD cars Will look to pull the graph up later.
- Lifetime discharge is at 6,539 kWh (vs. 6,977kWh charged).
I'm curious to know is the battery total miles are the amount above rated wh/mile. In other words, if you drive above EPA rated, does Tesla have an alogorithim that says this battery has been treated "harder" than EPA rated range?
Also, is lifetime discharge no including regen put into the battery while driving?
Lastly, if total wh/mi at 530 is also without regen thrown in to make it 350wh/mi.?
Seeing a 60 pack report a full capacity at 59.8 kWh and the 85 kWh packs reporting ~77 kWh does kind of make me a bit angry, admittedly, and fits my original predictions/assumptions from earlier almost exactly.