Let's Play "Find the Code Violations"

[gavine]

I'm not an electrician, but this video of a 240V outlet install seems to have several code violations:

The one that jumps out at me is the fact the he didn't use an outlet box and installed it straight-into the drywall. That can't be legal, can it?

I'm going to bet that there are 3 or 4 violations at least. The video doesn't allow comments. Otherwise, I'm sure the viewers would be listing the problems right there.

Let's list them here.

 

[MitchMitch]

YIKES !!
You're right, that outlet will likely pull out of the wall in short order.
Good thing he put that bushing where the cable enters the cabinet.

Tomorrow's video: $10.00> DIY appendectomy at home using this box cutter and super glue?

 

[Chris TX]

Using white wire for that second leg of hot isn't code. He at least needs to wrap the ends with a bit of red tape to signify they aren't a neutral.

 

[gavine]

Using white wire for that second leg of hot isn't code. He at least needs to wrap the ends with a bit of red tape to signify they aren't a neutral.

And he's using the bare copper as the neutral. The neutral carries some current, right?

 

[jelloslug]

I love the fact that comments are disabled for that video....

 

[Chris TX]

And he's using the bare copper as the neutral. The neutral carries some current, right?

L6-30 is two hots and a ground. Bare copper is fine for ground. It really need an old construction junction box, though.

 

[gaswalla]

problem is that too many electricians hear about the Tesla that someone just bought, and the prices quadruple. Then, you end up with folks like this doing it themselves.

 

[Chris TX]

And he's using the bare copper as the neutral. The neutral carries some current, right?

There is no neutral that would go to a L6-30 outlet. He's properly using the bare wire as ground.

 

[fwgmills]

I'm no electrician, but even I can tell that this guy is a walking insurance claim.

 

[Chris TX]

I'm no electrician, but even I can tell that this guy is a walking insurance claim.

Yeah, drilling and sawing with metal tools that close to a breaker box is like playing Russian Roulette.

 

[linkster]

1. no old construction single gang workbox (WTF!)
2. no Romex connector deployed where the 10-2 passes thru the load center panel box
3. no attachment (wire staples) of Romex to a stud within a certain distance of exiting the load center and the same goes for exiting the workbox (oh, that's right, it's a new fangled drywall/free floating L6-30 receptacle, SCHEESH!!)
4. white conductor not properly marked with black marker/tape in BOTH workbox and load center.

btw, love using metal screwdrivers
love pushing the drywall saw nice and deep thru the drywall while cutting
love the two tools in one hand approach while unscrewing panel door

everything else appears to be OK to me, but I am no electromagician

grounding, receptacle, conductor, 2-pole 30a breaker all match/good

 

[idoco]

3. no attachment (wire staples) of Romex to a stud within a certain distance of exiting the load center ...

No need for staples behind existing drywall (assuming proper strain relief at load panel and junction boxes.

NEC 334.30(B)(1)
(B) Unsupported Cables. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be permitted to be unsupported where the cable:

(1) Is fished between access points through concealed spaces in finished buildings or structures and supporting is impracticable.

 

[HankLloydRight]

No outlet box is like Home Electric 101! Yikes! How can he *not* know that?

 

[gavine]

The list is growing. How about not stripping the romex inside the box? Aren't you supposed to pull the jacket off in there?

 

[Craig-Tx]

What has already been mentioned above and:

#1 I'm going to add that the "Red Devil" he used for a grommet where the romex entered the panel is not at all correct. Glad he recognized that something needed to be there... But what he used offers very little protection and likely won't even stay in place.

#2 Label your new breaker in the breaker panel!!!

 

[linkster]

the "Red Devil" he used for a grommet where the romex entered the panel is not at all correct. !

Is that a BX termination wire protection sleeve or sumthin' else? Thnx in advance.

 

[Craig-Tx]

Also, at about 10:35 "...we are left with the copper ... which will run into the back line where the other grounds and neutrals are."

Which is it? Ground or Neutral? The Ground Bus and Neutral Bus are different bus bars. I do realize that as the primary panel for the house, that the two bus bars are connected in that panel, but you really should keep the grounds and neutrals on separate sides.
He did get it right. He connected it to the ground side, but I can only imagine that if the breaker would have fit easier on the other side, he would have likely connected the ground to the neutral bus.

If you don't know what you are doing... hire an electrician. Or at the very least, don't publish a how to for others to incorrectly follow.

 

[Craig-Tx]

Is that a BX termination wire protection sleeve or sumthin' else? Thnx in advance.

Yes, what he used is what is used in the termination of armor clad cable (which I believe includes BX). But I'm going to do what the subject in the video should have done and clearly state " I AM NOT A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN"

 

[CmdrThor]

He's using a 30amp breaker on a 30amp outlet. No headroom. For continuous load (charging) the receptacle should be no more than 24amp...so a 20 amp receptacle. Or he needs a 40amp breaker for the 30amp receptacle.

That is not true at all. A NEMA 14-30 receptacle can absolutely be used with a 30 amp breaker. In fact if you put a 40 amp breaker on a 30 amp receptacle, you would risk starting a fire because your receptacle is only rated at 30 amps.

What needs to be limited to 80% of the circuit's current is any continuous load (i.e. an EVSE). He can only plug a 24 amp EVSE into this outlet. Like a Clipper Creek LCS-30P with a NEMA L6-30 plug to match the receptacle he has chosen.

The biggest mistake the guy made was not using an old work box to protect the receptacle in the wall. Several other things people have pointed out are valid as well, but he did choose the correct wire, breaker, and receptacle.

 

[idoco]

That is not true at all. A NEMA 14-30 receptacle can absolutely be used with a 30 amp breaker. In fact if you put a 40 amp breaker on a 30 amp receptacle, you would risk starting a fire because your receptacle is only rated at 30 amps.

What needs to be limited to 80% of the circuit's current is any continuous load (i.e. an EVSE). He can only plug a 24 amp EVSE into this outlet. Like a Clipper Creek LCS-30P with a NEMA L6-30 plug to match the receptacle he has chosen.

The biggest mistake the guy made was not using an old work box to protect the receptacle in the wall. Several other things people have pointed out are valid as well, but he did choose the correct wire, breaker, and receptacle.

You are correct. Not sure what I was thinking. Actually I was thinking I had a 50 amp breaker on a 14-40 (no such thing) rather than a 40 amp breaker on a 14-50.

It sucks getting old!

P.S. I'll ask the moderator to delete the erroneous post.