Which also begs the question about what value is the battery warranty unless you have a near total failure.
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LFP. Weekly Charging vs Daily Charging
- Thread starter arnyswart
- Start date
Very good point, I doubt many people would ever have their battery replaced due to >30% degradation. There would have to be something very wrong with the battery to achieve that in 8 years, even if you abuse it.
At 10% degradation, I doubt you'd even notice during normal use because most of that will be hidden by the BMS. Maybe on a road trip with 20% loss, but if you are charger hopping - it probably won't bother you, not to mention the car will probably be 10+ years old anyway. The more I think about it, the more I see degradation as being totally irrelevant on new generation EV's with large batteries. In fact, the more I research and have this very discussion makes me more comfortable charging my LFP to 100% whenever I like.
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I took the ardous task of reading the manual:
Model Y has one of the most sophisticated battery systems in the world. The most important way to preserve the high voltage Battery is to LEAVE YOUR VEHICLE PLUGGED IN when you are not using it. This is particularly important if you are not planning to drive Model Y for several weeks.
There is no advantage to waiting until the Battery’s level is low before charging. In fact, the Battery performs best when charged regularly.
Model Y has one of the most sophisticated battery systems in the world. The most important way to preserve the high voltage Battery is to LEAVE YOUR VEHICLE PLUGGED IN when you are not using it. This is particularly important if you are not planning to drive Model Y for several weeks.
There is no advantage to waiting until the Battery’s level is low before charging. In fact, the Battery performs best when charged regularly.
i've only got 1600km on a 22rwd and im seeing contradictory numbers on my display. since last 100% charge the trip display says I've used 16kwh over 120km which adds up to the 135wh/km. The battery display says 53% left, the range says 228km which suggests my 2nd half of a tank will be almost twice as efficient as the first half. Does this need to be run into lower %'s now and then to get a decent estimate, and it not, which remaining figure is likely to be accurate? 240km of suburban driving would be very disappointing range.
![[Zombie]](/tmc/data/avatars/l/236/236453.jpg?1658216431){kind=avatar}
[Zombie]
Member
The wh/km and kWh used on the display only counts energy used while driving.
Energy use while parked (including sentry, cabin & battery heating/cooling etc) is not counted, so unless you're comparing numbers immediately before and after a trip you can't compare them with the battery percentage.
sentry's been on about 8 hours of that time, cabin heating etc not in use when parked, only overheat protection switched on which wouldnt be hit at this time of year. cant see anything that would account for 20% discrepancy in battery used
Miggy
Member
it's a LFP battery just charge to 100% all the time or at least once a week.
Sentry is an absolute power hog though. I rarely use it.
Maximillan
Member
The following video might be helpful, to add to it you'll need to take into the consideration the power draw of your Ryzen chip which was significant enough that 2022 owners had to accept reduced range.
Interesting video. Looks like driving below 0km was a pretty good idea for the first 55km
If you're still searching for a charger after hitting 0% and driving another 55km .. an immediate stop should be your punishment!
I think it's quite amazing. 7kW energy buffer. 0% and still doing 6.3s 0-100. My 2019 3 only has 3kW which equates to about 20-25km doing hypermiling speeds and at 0%, hardly any acceleration available.
I don't think the energy buffer is correct. The car he used was brand new so the battery wouldn't have been calibrated as it probably never had a full charge so the BMS would be way out. I read somewhere else that the buffer can display as such until it gets a full charge(s) and I know that others have reported it is about 2.5 kW so the same as usual with the M3's
RichardV
Member
I see your 7kwh energy buffer and raise you 14kwh!
CAN BMS seem to easily get out of whack on LFP chemistries. Only the SOC UI, Avg, Min, Max seem to track properly. The other CAN read SOC values and others seem to not be reliable on LFP cars.
Getting to 100% seems to track pretty well with when the otherwise flat 3.3V ish LFP battery voltage seems to rise. So at least it seems to know where the top is. I don't often hit below 50% so that may confuse the BMS, or maybe those value should not be relied on for LFP.
Cause I mean my ideal remaining 66kwh on a nominal 59kwh pack is amazing right?
Note these values are not available to the typical owner and all the owner facing values seem ok.
Could it be that scan my tesla is out and not reporting some values correctly?
By rights, if the buffer being reported by scan my tesla is that large then your range on the car screen would be way low and pretty sure the internet would have blown up by now with people reporting that there cars have lost so much range.
LFP certainly different to the usual NMC/NMA battery.
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