-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
FlatSix911
Porsche 918 Hybrid
I dislike the term "hypermiler" because that implies some unsafe practices. Mostly I've just had a lot of practice in effective driving.
FlatSix911
Porsche 918 Hybrid
1. Keep tire pressures and alignment up to snuff. Choose energy efficient tires.
2. Avoid rapid acceleration or braking.
3. Don't speed.
4. When possible, choose your routes to minimize energy usage--this almost always means the route with the fewest changes in speed. Sometimes you can have a different route for your morning and evening commute. Hills and traffic can sometimes be mitigated in this way.
5. Use the powermetre to accelerate (Note: this will be almost impossible to do in non-Classic cars as Tesla's ruined the instrumentation.) I've found that going by feel produces inconsistent results because on some days the car subjectively feels slower or quicker.
6. Don't use cruise control or AP* as they always accelerate and decelerate too fast trying to keep the same speed.
7. Learn to use the HVAC in an efficient manner.
8. Use the cold weather driving tips found elsewhere to minimize energy use--it will still be higher but in some cases it will be not much higher.
9. Keep enough distance between you and the vehicle ahead of you so that speed changes caused by traffic will be as gradual as possible.
A lot of this is just practice and educating your foot so you don't have to think about it. This will take time. In the beginning, CC or AP can produce better results in some conditions, but long term they won't. In summer don't worry about things like A/C usage in or using range mode. Neither will make enough difference to matter. Winter is a different story. A short commute will use less energy, but the Wh/mi will be higher--obviously there's a point where the lines on the graph cross.
*Note on AP. The additional safety provided by the AP cars is worth more than the increased energy it takes, so if I had an AP car, I'd likely use that and forgo the energy use reduction.
What does that translate to in percent of rated miles? Most people use more rated miles than actual miles. I am assuming you beat rated miles by a significant margin.
Rated range, based on the assumption that there are 76 kWh of usable energy in an 85 battery and rated range is 265 miles, that works out to ~287 Wh/mi. If you assume 81 kWh, then it works out to 305 Wh/mi. If you meticulous and use a wall metre to measure the electricity used, you'll get a different number for the energy used. Of course, that would only apply to home charging. If you're like me and about half of the miles are trip miles, then a wall metre won't be precise either.
Those are assumed values, but I am curious what the actual number is for your car. In other words, at the end of the day, if you have travelled 100 actual miles at your average of 246 Wh/mi, how many rated miles have you used?
My general eco-rules, partly thanks to jerry33:
-10% higher tirepresdure
-preheat in cold weather with range mode off, turn on when driving
-on very short trips in cold weather, turn off climate, seat heater and no climate works well for 5 min trips in -20C.
- When 10C or higher I set climate to LO, turn of AC and set fanspeed like 1-3.
-Below 25C I use LO without AC.
-Drive coastlike when going downhill.
-Use low rolling resistance tires. The Nokian R2 is the best, but not good in summer due to soft rubber. The stock goodyears are okay, but in 0C-10C consumption on identical route is 5-15% lower with R2. The only low RR summertire I know of is Landsail ls-uhp588. It actually scored well in a large summertyretest in Norway. Its very cheap aswell.
-Low rolling resistance rims can also help a few % when driving 70km/h+
-10% higher tirepresdure
-preheat in cold weather with range mode off, turn on when driving
-on very short trips in cold weather, turn off climate, seat heater and no climate works well for 5 min trips in -20C.
- When 10C or higher I set climate to LO, turn of AC and set fanspeed like 1-3.
-Below 25C I use LO without AC.
-Drive coastlike when going downhill.
-Use low rolling resistance tires. The Nokian R2 is the best, but not good in summer due to soft rubber. The stock goodyears are okay, but in 0C-10C consumption on identical route is 5-15% lower with R2. The only low RR summertire I know of is Landsail ls-uhp588. It actually scored well in a large summertyretest in Norway. Its very cheap aswell.
-Low rolling resistance rims can also help a few % when driving 70km/h+
No idea. I don't keep track of that. The problem here is that an average is only an average and isn't applicable to any given trip. The best way I've heard this expressed is that if your head is in an oven and your feet are in the freezer, on average you should be comfortable (Okay, I've heard it stated somewhat differently, but, you know, family forum.
Driving against a 30 km/h headwind--think I-70 heading west--will throw the average into the wastebasket, which is why I don't think it's useful to use the average for anything other than historical information.I only ever used rated miles as a general indication of what's left and combined that with the projected range. As long as projected range was higher than rated range, and the difference between them was not decreasing, all was well--and now with the trip graph I don't even bother with that.
So I take it you have never calculated your usable KWh available in your battery? That calculation should be independent of any particular trip since it is based on battery capacity and not related to driving style. Also, what is your 100% rated miles now?No idea. I don't keep track of that. The problem here is that an average is only an average and isn't applicable to any given trip. The best way I've heard this expressed is that if your head is in an oven and your feet are in the freezer, on average you should be comfortable (Okay, I've heard it stated somewhat differently, but, you know, family forum.
I only ever used rated miles as a general indication of what's left and combined that with the projected range. As long as projected range was higher than rated range, and the difference between them was not decreasing, all was well--and now with the trip graph I don't even bother with that.
Missile Toad
MSLR Wht/Blk/19 | OD 6/10/21 | RN11512
Calculating usable KWh is a bit of a trick for a couple of reasons. First, anytime you put the car in park, there is a chance that it is 'off the clock' for recording W-hour use, and accordingly, some watt-hours will slip by, undetected in either vampire drain (what I think is going into the 12 V battery to keep the CPU humming) or HVAC to keep the car cool. Secondly, you have to be brave and/or resourceful enough to drive the car down to 0 RM, and hopefully, have some unaccounted-for cushion, to wheel you the last mile to a NEMA 5-15 outlet or get towed.
Having said that, a process to get the kWh could be:
- charge to 100%;
- unplug and jump into the car, within a couple minutes and drive;
- hold your pee or bring absorbent undergarments for the next 3.5 hours;
- watch the dashboard warnings pop up about slowing down and 'Very low battery';
- actually hit 0 RM;
- record the kWhr in the trip meter.
1. I use Ideal Miles for estimating battery capacity because Tesla messes with Ideal Miles less, so the results are more consistent over time. 291 / 300 = 97% The question is: how balanced are the battery modules? I suspect mine are very close, but I have no real way of telling. Unbalanced modules will give a false low reading, because the capacity of the pack as a whole is determined by the module with the least capacity.
2. As Missile Toad says, the only way to really tell is to do a 100% to 0% cycle, but this kind of cycle does more harm then good so you would only do it if you had a very, very good reason. (Example: Some Leaf owners did this to prove in court that the battery lost a significant amount of capacity in hot climates.)
3. Even if you do a 100% to 0% cycle, the capacity of the battery changes with temperature--colder batteries have less capacity--so the reading won't be the same depending upon when you do the cycle.
Basically, I've had so little change from when the car was new 86,000 miles/4 years ago, that I don't stress over it.
What should I be getting on an S100D? My first 1200 miles are at 345kW/mi according to the trip gauge.
When I use the built in trip planner, I always end up lower than the initial estimate line.
I do have lots of short trips. ~5 miles. 60 mph. Stop lights every mile. Trips about an hour apart.
I try to accelerate slowly, etc. But, well...
When I use the built in trip planner, I always end up lower than the initial estimate line.
I do have lots of short trips. ~5 miles. 60 mph. Stop lights every mile. Trips about an hour apart.
I try to accelerate slowly, etc. But, well...
That sounds about right for a new car with a new (to Tesla) driver--unless you have had a lot of practice driving efficiently with other cars. Short trips with lots of stops are not good for Wh/mi. Cold weather makes it worse. Just keep the tire pressures up and the alignment good, and practice. Note that new tires don't give their best rolling resistance until a couple of thousand miles have been put on.
ArtInCT
Always Learning
After 14 months of ownership here are my P90DL's numbers
Current Month April
Distance = 862 miles
Total energy kWh = 279.2.
Avg energy / Mile in Wh/m = 324
Avg Temp 54.6 F (from TeslaFi)
Lifetime (14 Months)
Distance = 18,103 miles
Total energy kWh = 5862
Avg energy / Mile in Wh/m = 324
This month's data reflects mild weather driving with very minimal use of cabin heater, air conditioner, heated seats and steering wheel as well as defrosters. Battery degradation since new is about 3% at 90% charge (241 new vs 234 now, same as last month). Of note, for most of the month of April regen had not been limited due to warmer temperatures. Summer tires (Bridgestone Pole Position S04 19" and Cyclone wheels were mounted in mid-month).
Range Mode OFF entire month and on firmware 17.14.23
Current Month April
Distance = 862 miles
Total energy kWh = 279.2.
Avg energy / Mile in Wh/m = 324
Avg Temp 54.6 F (from TeslaFi)
Lifetime (14 Months)
Distance = 18,103 miles
Total energy kWh = 5862
Avg energy / Mile in Wh/m = 324
This month's data reflects mild weather driving with very minimal use of cabin heater, air conditioner, heated seats and steering wheel as well as defrosters. Battery degradation since new is about 3% at 90% charge (241 new vs 234 now, same as last month). Of note, for most of the month of April regen had not been limited due to warmer temperatures. Summer tires (Bridgestone Pole Position S04 19" and Cyclone wheels were mounted in mid-month).
Range Mode OFF entire month and on firmware 17.14.23
Boatguy
Active Member
Over a few thousand miles of road trips I've recorded the kWh used as reported on the trip meter and the rated miles consumed as reported on the dash. Over the last 2,000 miles the consumption was 273Wh/rated mile.
My 100% rated range is 281.
281RM * 273Wh/RM = 76.7kWh of usable capacity for an S90D. As you suggest, driving style should change the Wh/RM, but not the resultant capacity.
My actual consumption was 1.23RM / mi so my true range (freeway driving at 70-80) is 281 / 1.23 = 228mi.
When I'm home, driving a mix of around town and freeway (65-70) I consume about 306Wh/mi.
YMMV!
I'd be curious to know what other S90D's have for usable battery capacity.
wjhepworth
Member
I'm still ticking at around 292 Wh/mi but lately I've become a bit more cavalier about my driving so recent trips have me average more around 310-320. I'm at over 56,000 miles with a MS 70D
Similar threads
- Locked
