Same config as you, mine also has about 2,500 miles and I'm down to 355-360 and I feel the same as you. Wasn't expecting this much drop in such a short time either.
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Same config as you, mine also has about 2,500 miles and I'm down to 355-360 and I feel the same as you. Wasn't expecting this much drop in such a short time either.
I was averaging 330+ Wh/m until some time in early 2020. I can't prove it but I swear a software update changed something. My efficiency took a sudden turn for the better. Performance was unchanged (according to Dragy). I do make an effort to be efficient but traffic is traffic and there is only so much you can control. Now if Tesla could just eliminate the vampire drain my Wh/M would be truly accurate.
droopaloop
2021 MS LR White/Black 21'
I took a trip last week and for the first time pushed the range and supercharged. Now I'm seeing about what you are seeing, 100% range showing 356 to 358 with some day to day fluctuation.
Loaded down with a packed trunk, 2 Adults, and 2 Kids, I averaged 350 to 360 Wh/Mile driving between 75 and 80mph. The lifetime average for the car is still in the mid 310s.
Do you mostly drive on highways?
My lifetime is 278wh/mi, highways going 78-84 mph it seems to get around 300-310 wh/mi with wife and luggage for trips (no kids).
I mostly drive very non aggressively and in the city I often get 215-240 wh/mi going 45 mph. Weather here is perfect so rarely use ac or heat. It also just seems to workout that I never an 1st person at the light in this car. If I drive the wrangler I'd always have the greenlight to floor it.
I will be curious to see how efficiency drops in June here when I'm maxing AC and have the ventilated seats on
droopaloop
2021 MS LR White/Black 21'
I mostly drive in the city. I don't recall ever seeing an efficiency in the low to mid 200s regardless of speed. Which wheels do you have?
I took another trip with the family this week, almost 500 miles each way and averaged around 330 Wh/mi according to the car, and 352 Wh/mi gross according to TeslaMate. This is mostly interstate travel going about 80mph. I did have better weather (warmer, no rain) vs the previous trip. Again, with the entire family, Christmas presents, and multiple devices charging via USB and wireless almost the entire trip.
Range aside, this is a pretty comfy car to roadtrip in.
I live in Wisconsin. . a cold weather state. I have a 2019 MS LR (non-performance). . .and have put on ~30K miles in exactly 2 years since I bought the car new in Dec. 2019.
My lifetime average is 273 Wh/mi. Screenshot below.
I make a lot of trips around in the midwest; I'd estimate 70% of miles during warmer months and 30% during cold (sub-freezing) weather. Yesterday I drove 400 miles in 10F weather avg.. . .got about 350Wh/mi (heater at 68F), 70mph TACC all the way, light winds.
My lifetime average is 273 Wh/mi. Screenshot below.
I make a lot of trips around in the midwest; I'd estimate 70% of miles during warmer months and 30% during cold (sub-freezing) weather. Yesterday I drove 400 miles in 10F weather avg.. . .got about 350Wh/mi (heater at 68F), 70mph TACC all the way, light winds.
dark cloud
Active Member
On a related topic, I'd like to get your take on this observation:
There are 3 ways I can get the kW-hr consumption after, say, 30 miles of continuous driving in my car, fresh after charging. (Starting after charging resets some energy consumption values to zero; hence the suggestion.) I find that these 3 numbers sometimes are quite different (at other times closer.)
(1) the 100 kW-hr battery level drops from start to an end value (translating to a kW-hr value)
(2) the "dynamic" energy consumption dial on the panel tells me exactly how many kW-hr was consumed during the past 30 miles
(3) the trip meter also could be read for the energy consumed at the end of 30th mile.
I typically find that the above three values are in decreasing order. Leading me to assume that the trip meter looks only at the power delivered to the motors, whereas the other two include other overheads in different ways. Is it?
I am just curious, nothing more.
There are 3 ways I can get the kW-hr consumption after, say, 30 miles of continuous driving in my car, fresh after charging. (Starting after charging resets some energy consumption values to zero; hence the suggestion.) I find that these 3 numbers sometimes are quite different (at other times closer.)
(1) the 100 kW-hr battery level drops from start to an end value (translating to a kW-hr value)
(2) the "dynamic" energy consumption dial on the panel tells me exactly how many kW-hr was consumed during the past 30 miles
(3) the trip meter also could be read for the energy consumed at the end of 30th mile.
I typically find that the above three values are in decreasing order. Leading me to assume that the trip meter looks only at the power delivered to the motors, whereas the other two include other overheads in different ways. Is it?
I am just curious, nothing more.
Refreshed LR 19 inch. My lifetime avg has gone down to 274. 90% of driving is city and under 50 mph, near ideal conditions.
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In the conditions expected to get 300 wh/m ( 60 miles per hour That EPA uses) No problem getting 300 Wh/m . 2019 rave mx, but At highway speed’s 70 average Between New Orleans and Chicago about 325 wh/m
Life time 65000 miles is 365 Wh/m but made 5k miles pulling 45000 lb airstream 600 wh/m . I also pull a 3000 pound baby boat 500 wh/m. Most of my long trips 500+ miles without trailer I get about 325 running speed limits of 70. I can usually keep it down to around 300 wh/m if I keep my speed under 65 Miles per hour.
Interesting. My S is usually about 285 -290 watts/ mile at 70. I’ve run 295 on 800 mile trips in 98 degree weather. That’s averaging 75. I don’t understand the big differences between cars. Only time I was up around your figures was a trip with a 30 mph headwind.
I've noticed large differences between different people and cars over the years. There was a story long ago where somebody reported hearing a whining noise and their mileage plummeted. It turned out there was pebble in the brake rotor. From that, I concluded that small differences in the mechanics of the car, like a stiff bearing somewhere, could produce large end results.
Then more recently with the FSD trials, people reported that their consumption dropped a lot when trying to get a good score. From that, I concluded that some people drive like maniacs.
dark cloud
Active Member
One of the things that irks me the most is when you try to pass the idiot, he suddenly becomes the maniac.
The model X is just not as efficient as the model S. About 15% difference 2022 refreshed models. Throughout the years both cars have gotten changes, Permanent magnet front motor,battery chemistry change, and other efficiency improvements. If I compare my model X 2019 early raven two a 2022 refreshed model S the model S should be about 20% more efficient. There is even reason to believe that the new batteries are smaller yet still put out better range Since they have better energy density.
If we floorboarded our ice cars all the time our mileage will drop drastically and probably have to make a lot more repairs And maintenance. But that acceleration is so addictive!
I assume you mean smaller batter packs. I don't think Tesla has changed the physical size of the cells in quite some time. As far as I know the S/X still use 18650s and the 3/Y 2170s.
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