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Lighted T Sign
- Thread starter vishmaker
- Start date
Silicon Desert
Well-Known Member
On youtube, search for "tesla lighted T" and you will see a few.
RoBoRaT
PoPeYeD'SaiLoRDuDe
RoBoRaT
PoPeYeD'SaiLoRDuDe
RoBoRaT
PoPeYeD'SaiLoRDuDe
Do you have pictures of how the product came in the box (if not, what came with it?) and how it looks after installation? This comment is the only information I can find about refitacar and was interested in your experience, thanks.Wow that was an involved custom! I finally found a video that went through it and we realized you just have to be firm when you pull. We still ended up breaking a few tabs but fortunately there's a lot on that back liner.We got it done and the lit emblem in the back looks great!
In case anyone is curious, I bought mine from refitacar.com
I am sitting in the same boat as your right now. I also want a rear illuminated Tesla T, but not sure if they are legit. Any updates?
Jjmboni
Member
Sorry I missed your questions! I got mine installed and it looks really nice. Here are some pictures.
It was actually not too scary to install it. Honestly the scariest part for me wasn't drilling the hole, it was taking off the plastic trim inside to get to the wiring! You have to be seriously aggressive to get those clips off and your gonna break them. Buy a batch of replacement clips before doing this job.
Also the coating Tesla puts on their wiring SUCKS to get off. It's like a combination of electrical tape, goat hair and stubborn old man. I spent the most of my day just picking and cleaning that coating to get a few inches clearance to tap into the wires.
And the old style wire taps also suck. I broke three of them and eventually gave up on them entirely. You want to buy the newer style "screw in" wire taps. Or do like me - I ended up cutting the wire completely, stripping all ends and twisting the wires all together and holding it with electrical tape.
I'm not sure I'm too happy with the color I chose. I thought it'd be a deeper blue. If I had to do it again I'd probably choose red.
It does have a neat animation when it first comes on. The light doesn't just snap on, it sort of scrolls into view.
Shipping from Refitacar was fine. I ordered Mar 28, they arrived at my house in Oregon April 11. They include tracking, so you can watch it travel or get updates.
I thought I'd ordered both the front and rear Model X light from Refitacar, but they unfortunately don't have a front Model X version, I mistakenly ordered the front Model S version so now I gotta somehow fit it to my X. That's my next project.
EDIT: Forgot to mention, the Model S front emblem was $90, the Model X rear was $70, shipping was free. I also got 20% off so my total was $128 shipped.
It was actually not too scary to install it. Honestly the scariest part for me wasn't drilling the hole, it was taking off the plastic trim inside to get to the wiring! You have to be seriously aggressive to get those clips off and your gonna break them. Buy a batch of replacement clips before doing this job.
Also the coating Tesla puts on their wiring SUCKS to get off. It's like a combination of electrical tape, goat hair and stubborn old man. I spent the most of my day just picking and cleaning that coating to get a few inches clearance to tap into the wires.
And the old style wire taps also suck. I broke three of them and eventually gave up on them entirely. You want to buy the newer style "screw in" wire taps. Or do like me - I ended up cutting the wire completely, stripping all ends and twisting the wires all together and holding it with electrical tape.
I'm not sure I'm too happy with the color I chose. I thought it'd be a deeper blue. If I had to do it again I'd probably choose red.
It does have a neat animation when it first comes on. The light doesn't just snap on, it sort of scrolls into view.
Shipping from Refitacar was fine. I ordered Mar 28, they arrived at my house in Oregon April 11. They include tracking, so you can watch it travel or get updates.
I thought I'd ordered both the front and rear Model X light from Refitacar, but they unfortunately don't have a front Model X version, I mistakenly ordered the front Model S version so now I gotta somehow fit it to my X. That's my next project.
EDIT: Forgot to mention, the Model S front emblem was $90, the Model X rear was $70, shipping was free. I also got 20% off so my total was $128 shipped.
That looks great, thanks for sharing! Did you get the "NO CONTROL" or "ABLE TO CONTROL" option (I'm curious about the controller functionality)? Also, does the light get brighter when you press on the brakes? Fortunately, it's still only $60 if you want to switch to the red one. I'm sure someone would buy that blue one from you anyways.
I shot my shot and ordered an "ABLE TO CONTROL" model S 12V red rear badge emblem. I will post an update in *hopefully* 2ish weeks! I suggest others on the fence order them soon considering other companies had a similar product for over $200 until they got the cease & desist order. In coincidence, Elon on Twitter earlier today tweeted "Tesla is building a hardcore litigation department where we directly initiate & execute lawsuits..." so yeah take that as you will.
RoBoRaT
PoPeYeD'SaiLoRDuDe
RoBoRaT
PoPeYeD'SaiLoRDuDe
bnsfengineer
Active Member
Never a hole from factory as I installed one on MS and on M3 you actually had to drill a hole and then use silicone to seal. I think Tesla just stopped Evannex with lawyers!
drdumont
Member
While it may sound painful to think of making a hole in our beloved vehicle, I have been installing communications radio antennas, even CB antennas and other accessories on cars including my own for over 50 years.
If you are reasonably handy and know how to mark, ensure there is nothing on the other side that will not react kindly to drilling, center punch, properly operate a power tool, and then immediately treat the bare metal and around the hole, the process is not at all painful. Rust won't be a problem if you treat the bare metal properly. Many years ago I used Glyptal or lacquer, nowadays I use Rustoleum primer. You can apply it with a brush even if you have the Rustoleum in a spray can. and of course, as soon as you get the wire(s) run, seal/waterproof the hole with a quality flexible silicone sealant. Make sure the sealant gets in the hole and completely seals around the wires.
As my dentist used to say, "This won't hurt a bit, did it?".
Silicon Desert
Well-Known Member
wrong. You are just guessing. The hole is 1/16 inch for the wires and the "T" is sealed around the hole as well as the hole itself. I did this 5 years ago and it is fine.
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