It sort of makes sense. Replacing the drive unit requires doing a firmware update/redeploy. If your MCU isn't working they can't do that. And you can't expect them to replace the MCU for free when it is out of warranty just because something else in warranty failed.
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Likely MCU Failure (MCU1 eMMC)
- Thread starter Jkaufm32
- Start date
It sort of makes sense. Replacing the drive unit requires doing a firmware update/redeploy. If your MCU isn't working they can't do that. And you can't expect them to replace the MCU for free when it is out of warranty just because something else in warranty failed.
I think I would go to arbitration on this issue. It seems odd that the MCU would have anything to do with the drive train. Very odd.
CuriousG
Active Member
With this eventual single point of failure and other parts dependent on it to work, there will be more irate customers. I'm sure people will not be happy to find out when their MCU fails they may or may not be able to charge at home or at Superchargers.
whitex
Well-Known Member
Of course, just like people buy Bugatti Veyrons knowing annual service costs over $20K. The point is, some people would not buy such a car, knowing the cost of ownership is that expensive. This is the same reason why Tesla offers 8 year battery warranty, because without it people would know they are on the hook for new batteries and a lot less would buy the cars.
CuriousG
Active Member
Now they want me to be on the hook for a new 12V battery. I don't remember when I got mine replaced under warranty but it couldn't be more than a 1.5yr ago. I told them when I brought in the car on Friday that the main pack was very low as noted in my estimate, they couldn't have just hooked up a battery tender and avoided all this? I asked if the 12V can be recharged since I did not get any warning messages about the battery needing to be replaced like the first time and I haven't heard back.
Now I'm afraid there can possibly be further damage to the main pack since that is what charges the 12V and that was already low. I'll be glad to pay their ~$2300 now if I get a new or refurbished pack out of this since it has already been capped.
Now I'm afraid there can possibly be further damage to the main pack since that is what charges the 12V and that was already low. I'll be glad to pay their ~$2300 now if I get a new or refurbished pack out of this since it has already been capped.
CuriousG
Active Member
Update on my repair:
Towed my car in on Friday with 7 miles left on the main pack and voiced my concern about the main pack being very low. I thought they were to begin work on it Friday but due to miscommunication, I hadn't authorized repair according to them. So when I authorized repair later Friday afternoon, they said they wouldn't begin work until Monday.
I received an update saying that they are working on repair and that to keep the loaner for the time being. Tuesday morning I receive a text (I believe they actually started working on it then) that they need to replace the 12V battery too. I'm pretty sure it was less than 1.5yr old battery when it was covered under warranty when I replaced it then. I tell them there were no signs the 12V battery was going prior to the MCU dying a few days before. Service advisor tells me that because the MCU was inoperative there was nothing tell it to support the 12V and says it can't be recharged. Considering the 12V message comes up in the IC rather than MCU, that's a bunch of BS and on top of that, they tell me that 12V can't be recharged (doubt they would even attempt it). I begrudgingly tell them to replace it.
Come today I get a text message an hour ago saying they finished replacing and now walking back my MCU is mine to take. They want a $500 core charge according to their shop foreman even though she had checked with a technician before and said that was fine and they were to only take the SIM card. I vehemently tell them the shop foreman is wrong and cite my consumer rights from bar.ca.gov on auto repair which I already sent them earlier when we were debating this issue. I asked if that means my MCU is covered under warranty then? I have yet to hear back. So due to negligence on their part I have to fork out an additional $212 for the 12V battery after repeatedly voicing my concern about the main pack being so low.
I also asked for my 12V battery back to see if I am able to recharge it. If they want to play that game, I am going to ask for $1000 core charge for the SIM as that should clearly belong to me. I already told them they should be able to contact AT&T or be able to disable that particular SIM by software means when I thought they wanted to take my whole Tegra board.
I don't know why this whole process feels like pulling teeth with Tesla or this particular service center.
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SemiS3XYR
Member
I think there may be some confusion or misinformation or different kinds of failures. My screen went black and my car took a few min to “load systems” before I was able to drive. I was able to charge at home. Probably supercharge too? For those who say they can’t charge... maybe they left their scheduled charge set/on. So from now on I’ll always leave my scheduled charge OFF.
Also, my service center was able to revive the car without replacement but I’m very skeptical. Car is still with them pending confirmation of pickup.
CuriousG
Active Member
I had the same symptoms. I also had scheduled charge setup but it never started up from the last time I had it set. That is why I took it to the Supercharger. It displayed the same message when I plugged in as if it was a home charge. My understanding is that it works for some people and not for others.
They didn't even attempt to reload the software even though I was able to connect to my car when I did a reboot while on the phone with Tesla. By the time I told them my problem and went to get my loaner after grabbing insurance info from my car, the adviser came back to me already saying they need to replace the MCU. My plan was to hopefully get the firmware reloaded then take the MCU out right away to send out and fix.
The IC gets most of its information from the MCU...
If it was covered under warranty you wouldn't have any option to get the MCU back, even paying a core charge. A core charge for expensive out of warranty parts is standard in the automotive world. Sometimes it is include in the price of the part and they give you a credit if you let them keep, other times like on your invoice they list the core charge as a separate line item.
There is inconsistent core charging. I had a customer who's mcu was stolen. There was no "core" charge to install a mcu for him. He had no mcu to give them...
Core charges need to be clearly identified up front, which it was. However should also be consistent across all service centers, which it is not. I also had another friend who walked in and bought a MCU. Paid the same price listed there and had no core and got no core charge.
Core charges need to be clearly identified up front, which it was. However should also be consistent across all service centers, which it is not. I also had another friend who walked in and bought a MCU. Paid the same price listed there and had no core and got no core charge.
whitex
Well-Known Member
Maybe the best way is to order a new MCU first (as an owner you can order parts as long as they are not restricted) and then bring it with you for installation, so they can't charge a core charge. Or maybe bring it the car in without an MCU at all (tell them it "fell out"
, Tesla employees from Elon, through JB, down to service techs make up stuff all the time to pacify customers, why shouldn't customers do the same).
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Maybe the best way is to order a new MCU first (as an owner you can order parts as long as they are not restricted) and then bring it with you for installation, so they can't charge a core charge. Or maybe bring it the car in without an MCU at all (tell them it "fell out"
True, Lost is good also... I was playing poker and made a dumb bet...
CuriousG
Active Member
Can anyone confirm if Tesla will warranty the replacement MCU for 4 years and are there restrictions to miles? Now I need to decide whether to pay the core fee but I'm steering towards not doing so.
Doesn't make sense how they won't warranty the original part under 4yrs but will offer a 4yr warranty on a refurbished part.
Doesn't make sense how they won't warranty the original part under 4yrs but will offer a 4yr warranty on a refurbished part.
whitex
Well-Known Member
Nobody can guarantee to you what Tesla will do. Unfortunately, Tesla policies are extremely volatile, vary from service center to service center, from service adviser to service adviser, from day to day or even from hour to hour in some cases. Everyone thought yellowing screen would be covered under warranty, and at first it was, then it changed and it wasn't at some place while still was at other, now probably not covered anymore anywhere. Basically whether or not they cover something or not you only find out for sure when it breaks and you bring it in, and sometimes even not then (if they cannot fix it and tell you to come back, whether it's covered or not may change when you do come back, as it did for my yellow screen for example).
CuriousG
Active Member
Got my car back today after I had them take off the core fee as I told them I didn't want the MCU now. I asked about the warranty on the replacement part and they're telling me 1yr, 12k miles. I wanted to make sure so they now have two people that say that is the warranty. It is also second to last paragraph on your estimate. So I'm not sure if people that were talking about 4yr warranty is for NEW part as I got a refurbished unit or this is just another disjointed Tesla communication issue where nobody knows what's going on.
I know of 1 refurb that was told 4 years... Seems like inconsistently again. This typically is a problem that starts from the top when direction provided is not clear.
CuriousG
Active Member
Calling all people with replacement MCUs, just found out that my Tesla App doesn't work for door unlock, frunk open and trunk open. It goes through the motion and doesn't display any kind of error message and even momentarily displays your car with frunk or trunk open if you hit those buttons under controls. I'm thinking the technician that worked on my car may have forgotten something while programming. Other features like horn, vent, flash light still work.
Just want to confirm this is only happening to me or this would be a PSA otherwise.
Another odd thing that happened when I first got on the road after leaving Tesla is that it indicated there was a new firmware available. When I got home and connected to WiFi it started downloading and I installed only to find out it is the same version number as when I left 19.32.12.8.
Just want to confirm this is only happening to me or this would be a PSA otherwise.
Another odd thing that happened when I first got on the road after leaving Tesla is that it indicated there was a new firmware available. When I got home and connected to WiFi it started downloading and I installed only to find out it is the same version number as when I left 19.32.12.8.
whitex
Well-Known Member
I can't find the postd, but I've read this same problem here before, IIRC you might have to bring it in and bring your keys with you too, they might have to reprogram some security module to link it up with the new MCU. Contact the SC, they should tell you for sure what you need - this should be covered under MCU replacement cost.
CuriousG
Active Member
Does this require a SC visit or can this be done via mobile service?
I think this may be the post you're looking for and it appears mobile service can fix it.
Tesla app won't work correctly
whitex
Well-Known Member
I suspect mobile service will be able to take care of that. When I said contact SC I assumed they would point that out to you as an option.
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