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Likely MCU Failure (MCU1 eMMC)

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Has anyone tried to just replacing the EMMC chip, then taking it to service to reflash a new image? If they ask what happened, don't tell them you replaced the EMMC, just tell them one day this just happened. EMMC's do fail (erase themselves) when unpowered in high heat for a while.
 
Has anyone tried to just replacing the EMMC chip, then taking it to service to reflash a new image? If they ask what happened, don't tell them you replaced the EMMC, just tell them one day this just happened. EMMC's do fail (erase themselves) when unpowered in high heat for a while.

If you're capable of replacing the chip, you're probably capable of copying the image over np
 
If you're capable of replacing the chip, you're probably capable of copying the image over np
Not if the EMMC chip is dead. Also, I have a rework station at home and I can take a BGA off and put a new one on, but it would take me a bit to create a setup to read a chip once off the board (socket it somehow, buy a BGA to pin header board and solder onto it, or solder wires to individual balls - all to provide power and route out emmc to an emmc contoller connected to a PC).

Reprogramming the EMMC should be cheaper out of warranty than replacing the entire MCU.
 
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My MCU just failed on my 2013 MS (46K miles). The 12V battery was replaced in March 2019. In August 2019 I got the "...replace 12V battery soon" message again. The battery had a 1 year warranty so the mobile service came to replace the battery at no cost to me.

After replacing the dying 5 month old battery with a new one, the Mobile Tech could not get the center display screen working again and told me that the car needed to go to the Service Center. The nearest one from Bellingham WA is about 60 miles away in Vancouver BC. My wife took it there and they said the MCU needed to be replaced at a cost of $4075 CDN. Ouch!

To confirm another post on this thread, when I requested keeping the old MCU I was told that I would have to pay a $675 CDN "core" fee to keep my old part.

I always thought than when you have already own something, that you don't need to pay someone to keep it? If I was Tesla's attorney, I would advise them to add the "core" charge to the the MCU price and offer customers $675 CDN to buy back the old part.
 
To confirm another post on this thread, when I requested keeping the old MCU I was told that I would have to pay a $675 CDN "core" fee to keep my old part.

I always thought than when you have already own something, that you don't need to pay someone to keep it? If I was Tesla's attorney, I would advise them to add the "core" charge to the the MCU price and offer customers $675 CDN to buy back the old part.

Core charges are standard for "valuable" parts in the automotive world. Some places do like you say and include the core charge in the price of the unit and then give the customer a core-return credit. Others list the core charge as a separate line item. The end cost is the same so either seems fine to me.
 
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My MCU just failed on my 2013 MS (46K miles). The 12V battery was replaced in March 2019. In August 2019 I got the "...replace 12V battery soon" message again. The battery had a 1 year warranty so the mobile service came to replace the battery at no cost to me.

After replacing the dying 5 month old battery with a new one, the Mobile Tech could not get the center display screen working again and told me that the car needed to go to the Service Center. The nearest one from Bellingham WA is about 60 miles away in Vancouver BC. My wife took it there and they said the MCU needed to be replaced at a cost of $4075 CDN. Ouch!

To confirm another post on this thread, when I requested keeping the old MCU I was told that I would have to pay a $675 CDN "core" fee to keep my old part.

I always thought than when you have already own something, that you don't need to pay someone to keep it? If I was Tesla's attorney, I would advise them to add the "core" charge to the the MCU price and offer customers $675 CDN to buy back the old part.
Wow. I keep wondering if I should proactively replace my 12v because it's over 7 years old. But I keep thinking the older ones must have been better build than the newer ones. How much did it cost to get the 12v replaced? And did mobile replace your 1st one?

Btw, I just had my MCU on my 2013 also replaced. Fortunately, under the ESA though. Hoping it lasts another 7 years.
 
Wow. I keep wondering if I should proactively replace my 12v because it's over 7 years old. But I keep thinking the older ones must have been better build than the newer ones. How much did it cost to get the 12v replaced? And did mobile replace your 1st one?

Battery replacement was $210 parts plus $30 labor + tax (Canadian). So about $185 US + tax. The first replacement was in the Vancouver BC service center as I needed other work done (tail light assembly replaced $525 CDN, tire pressure sensors replaced $734 CDN).

Mobile service can replace the 12V.
 
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Hey everyone!

Well it looks like the honeymoon is over. On March 22nd I picked up one of the best cars I've ever owned. A November 2015 Model S 85D. I love every minute of driving it until 2 days ago.

After work on Monday (May 13th) I was driving home and went into settings to look at something. Once I clicked the settings menu the center screen froze and went black. I assumed it would restart on its own since I've read that a lot on the forums. It didn't come back on. I tried to reset it by pressing the 2 scroll wheels on the steering wheel for 15 seconds and nothing happened. I live in New York and lately all it does is rain. So the entire car fogged up.

View attachment 407939

View attachment 407940

I couldn't find a customer service number so I chatted with Tesla customer service while I was pulled over. They couldn't connect to the car remotely and after I attempted more resets they pretty much said there was nothing they could do so I should either drive to a service center or call roadside assistance.

I had to pick up my daughter from my wife's aunts house (I was already late since I sat on the side of the road for 30 minutes chatting with Tesla). When I picked her up I apologized and told her what happened. The uncle laughed and said "you should have bought American" which I thought was funny since it's built in California. I told him that, but he didn't seem to really care.

On my way home I called roadside assistance and they asked me to perform different resets, but those didn't work. It was nice they pulled up the notes from my chat so I didn't have to go over everything again. They said they could have the car towed and an Uber for me, but I said I would drive to a service center since one is about 10 minutes from my house.

I dropped my car off after hours and went back yesterday to pick up a loaner (pre-AP P85+). The service center staff was very nice and helpful. I was worried I was going to get some Enterprise rental, but they told me they rarely ever do that anymore. They even made sure the loaner was a similar battery size since I have the 85, and not a 60 or 75.

View attachment 407941
(never seen the green in person, but I definitely liked it a lot)

I still love my car. Nothing is perfect and cars break all the time. The car is under warranty so I am assuming I should walk away from this with a $0 bill. There were also recalls on the car so they said they would take care of that while the car is there.

The one problem I had was the car was basically useless other than moving. I couldn't see out of any window since I couldn't turn on the defroster. I had to open most of the windows in the pouring rain which I was not a fan of doing.

I think Tesla handled the situation the best they could. They couldn't connect to the car so they offered to have the car towed for no cost and get me home at no cost. I was given a comparable car as a loaner so I was happy (I wish it had AP, but I'll live).

I'm assuming the module that logs data finally went out. Any ideas of how long it normally takes to have this replaced?

This is the syosset location. I had that exact car as a loaner quite a few times.. Actually named it "return of the green hornet" back in March and just got it back last week... name was still there
 
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Not if the EMMC chip is dead. Also, I have a rework station at home and I can take a BGA off and put a new one on, but it would take me a bit to create a setup to read a chip once off the board (socket it somehow, buy a BGA to pin header board and solder onto it, or solder wires to individual balls - all to provide power and route out emmc to an emmc contoller connected to a PC).

Reprogramming the EMMC should be cheaper out of warranty than replacing the entire MCU.

Don't need to go to all that trouble:

2019-09-07_15-11-38_722_small.jpg

2019-09-07_15-16-17_529_small.jpg


And not that expensive:

All Socket DS3000

Note that the original Hynix chips don't like the All Socket SD-slot based programmer...


More HERE
 
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