Lloyd's TS-70 to J1772 conversion

[vfx]

Sorry, Lloyd, but I think that would have been a better 'solution'.

On real downside is "something that can get lost".

 

[TEG]

I checked that, but they don't make one that would connect inline as an aircraft connector. I would have had to make an adapter box to house the inlet. Good thought! Also the Tesla inlet was fairly pricey.
I could still do that if this does not work. Easy to remove and change!

You wouldn't need the Tesla inlet if you spliced in the J to J (M to F).

I have seen an adapter someone made that went from J-inlet to a plug for a conversion car, that had a nice round recepticle around the J-inlet. I seems such things do exist.
Tesla has a nice in-line inlet on their J cable too:

 

[Lloyd]

Thanks all for your comments. I'll try this for awhile and modify it as I need to. It just feels better to be able to plug in either directly. At least everybody knows that this is possible to do! Clipper Creek said that I would not be able to fit the wires through the current sensor! They wanted my photos also, and they have a set!

 

[doug]

I don't think this is unsafe, and not difficult. Two rules: 1. Use only one at a time. 2. Dont screw with the unused connector while charging.

Safe is a relative term. It certainly is less safe, especially if it requires users (or the curious) to have special knowledge of an unorthodox arrangement. That said, I'm all for homebrew hacks.

On[e] real downside is "something that can get lost".

A DIY J1772 coupler could have an integrated locking scheme.

 

[Lloyd]

Safe is a relative term. It certainly is less safe, especially if it requires users (or the curious) to have special knowledge of an unorthodox arrangement. That said, I'm all for homebrew hacks.


A DIY J1772 coupler could have an integrated locking scheme.

Yes, the potential is there for harm as you pointed out, but the unused connector is not any more dangerous than a non covered 14-50 which is very common! I discussed this with clipper before proceeding and they agreed for a non public and indoor installation my modification, if i was able to complete it, was acceptable.

 

[S-2000 Roadster]

I discussed this with clipper before proceeding and they agreed for a non public and indoor installation my modification, if i was able to complete it, was acceptable.

That's very cool. I'm actually rather surprised that they would make any comment considering the potential liability. But, as you say, a private indoor installation is at your own risk.

 

[bonnie]

Huge difference between private and public. Public, the risk cannot be controlled, so more safeguards need to be in place. But I have no doubt that Lloyd will 1) not forget, and 2) not let others mess with his car. I don't see a big risk here.

However, if the car were ever sold (I can't imagine that!), I'd have the buyer sign off that they understand the risk were they not to follow Lloyd's recommendations.

 

[S-2000 Roadster]

However, if the car were ever sold (I can't imagine that!), I'd have the buyer sign off that they understand the risk were they not to follow Lloyd's recommendations.

Don't you mean "if the charger, or his house, were ever sold?"
As far as I recall, Lloyd didn't modify his Tesla, just the Coulomb Charger.

 

[hcsharp]

Yes, the unused cable will have hot legs somewhat exposed when charging with the other. The unused cable should have a cap or cover to secure it.

It wouldn't be too hard to wire a switch to the storage brackets for both plugs. Those switches would be wired in parallel with each other, but in series with the coil in the contactor. That way power would never be activated unless at least one of the plugs was in its storage bracket. For secondary safety you still have the GFI device which would trip if either plug got some fingers in it.

When I installed my NEMA 14-50 receptacles, I mounted both at least 5.5 ft off the floor to make them a little more out of reach of a toddler's fingers.

 

[TEG]

Don't you mean "if the charger, or his house, were ever sold?"
As far as I recall, Lloyd didn't modify his Tesla, just the Coulomb Charger.

I took it to mean that if the Roadster got sold, the EVSE could go with it... And he wouldn't part with the EVSE as long as he has the Roadster.

 

[bonnie]

I took it to mean that if the Roadster got sold, the EVSE could go with it... And he wouldn't part with the EVSE as long as he has the Roadster.

Thanks for the clarification .

 

[scott451]

Thanks all for your comments. I'll try this for awhile and modify it as I need to. It just feels better to be able to plug in either directly. At least everybody knows that this is possible to do! Clipper Creek said that I would not be able to fit the wires through the current sensor! They wanted my photos also, and they have a set!

Lloyd, Nice work. Simple.

So here's an improvement: Put a low voltage switch only on the pilot signal to select which plug is active. If someone plugs in a tesla AND a leaf at the same time, only the car that gets the pilot signal will charge. The other car will see the voltage, but won't draw current because it doesn't see a pilot. Put a nice label on the EVSE that explains that only one plug can charge at a time.

 

[tomsax]

So here's an improvement: Put a low voltage switch only on the pilot signal to select which plug is active. If someone plugs in a tesla AND a leaf at the same time, only the car that gets the pilot signal will charge. The other car will see the voltage, but won't draw current because it doesn't see a pilot. Put a nice label on the EVSE that explains that only one plug can charge at a time.

The Roadster will charge at 15A if it sees voltage but not a pilot signal.

 

[scott451]

The Roadster will charge at 15A if it sees voltage but not a pilot signal.

No. The roadster will charge at 12A/15A if it sees a grounded pilot and 120V. It [a US roadster] will not charge @240V without a pilot. It will not charge if there is voltage and the pilot pin is left floating. Switching the pilot signal means that the other charger cable has a floating pilot pin.

 

[tomsax]

No. The roadster will charge at 12A/15A if it sees a grounded pilot and 120V. It will not charge @240V without a pilot. It will not charge if there is voltage and the pilot pin is left floating. Switching the pilot signal means that the other charger cable has a floating pilot pin.

Thanks for the correction. Do you know how the UK equivalent of the MC120 works?

 

[scott451]

Thanks for the correction. Do you know how the UK equivalent of the MC120 works?

I have not seen the UK SMC, but I assume it works the same way. A grounded pilot would allow the roadster to charge off 230V @10A

 

[Fuzzylogic]

Yes that's correct.
If the pilot signal is not grounded, it will not start charging. On the Mobile Connector the pilot pin is internally connected to the switch, and from that to ground.

here in the Netherlands it would draw max 16A @ 230V.

 

[Lloyd]

To keep this active, I have been using this for a bout 5 months now, chaging Tesla roadsters, Volts, and leafs. Works great and no complaints or issues.

 

[doug]

Great!

 

[Sparrow]

Has anybody converted one of the older Tesla HPC, like the one pictured here High Power Wall Connector | Charging Solutions | Tesla Motors to J1772.