Locked Out vía Everything [resolved - 12v battery]

[BluePowerUp]

I’m locked out via all entry methods.
1- Phone app via Bluetooth does not connect.
2- Key cards (2) do not open car.
3- Tesla Support. Useless

Scheduled service, earliest available 4 days from now, ridiculous.

I’ve tried:
1- Turing off/on Bluetooth on the phone.
2- Via app Disconnected Phone Key. Now it’s not possible to connect again. Wife’s Phone Key remains connected but does not work.
3- Both Key cards do not unlock vehicle.

Prior to issue.
1- With App used Summon’s to move car forward out of garage.
2- Once done got in the car to park back in garage and the screen never turned on. As if the car had no power.
3- Got out of the car and when I returned the car was locked.
4- Drivers side window is not closed 100%
5- Phone app indicates that Software Updated occurred yesterday.

Having second thoughts about buying Model S and Cybertruck.
Please help.

 

[jjrandorin]

You dont say how old this car is, which is relevant in that if its not a new model 3, it could be a 12v battery issue.

Other than "let it sit for a while so it goes to sleep and try again" there is no other recommendations I can think of, other than 12V battery.

 

[BluePowerUp]

You dont say how old this car is, which is relevant in that if its not a new model 3, it could be a 12v battery issue.

Other than "let it sit for a while so it goes to sleep and try again" there is no other recommendations I can think of, other than 12V battery.

 

[BluePowerUp]

It’s a 2019 Model 3 purchased new on September 2019. I just removed app from the phone and re-installed to try something different. No luck. It’s as the car battery was dead. Last night it was at 77%.

 

[jjrandorin]

It’s a 2019 Model 3 purchased new on September 2019. I just removed app from the phone and re-installed to try something different. No luck. It’s as the car battery was dead. Last night it was at 77%.

So, its just about 2 years old. Symptoms sound similar to other 12V battery threads to me. No idea if thats it, but thats what it sounds like.

 

[iwannam3]

Does not matter what % the main battery is. If the 12v is low, it can't close the contactors to the main battery to charge the 12v battery. Sort of a catch 22. Google replacing model 3 12v battery it will show you where the 12 v connector is under the seat and how to swap battery. DISCONNECT NEGATIVE POST FIRST ALWAYS!. If your wrench is on the positive and it touches any metal you have a real problem in your hand! You have a dead battery. The frunk will only open with outside power if the battery is no good. the outside jump will not work if the battery is at the correct voltage. Measure the battery in another car, it will be much higher than 11.4. 11.4 is dead. New battery is $85 at Tesla or have a ranger install it, you may get it covered under warranty. There are literally hundreds of dead 12v battery posts at 2 years. I proactively replaced mine at 3 years.

 

[Occhis]

Would be nice to know the outcome. Don’t leave us hanging. May help others in the future.

 

[Sklith]

This sounds exactly like a dead 12v battery issue. You can jump start your car by pulling out that hole on the front bumper, this pops the frunk. then jump again after removing the battery cover.

 

[Phlier]

Unfortunately, due to your description of what happened, I don’t think the 12v battery is the problem.

If you immediately got in the car after using Summon, the car wouldn’t have had time to go to sleep. The only time the 12v battery is used to power the 12v system is when the car is asleep. When the car is awake, the 12v system is powered by the DC/DC converter.

Now if you waited long enough for the car to go to sleep after using Summon, it could be the 12v battery, but your description of events sounds like you hopped right in before the car went to sleep.

Please let us know how it goes?

 

[Phlier]

This sounds exactly like a dead 12v battery issue. You can jump start your car by pulling out that hole on the front bumper, this pops the frunk. then jump again after removing the battery cover.

Unless new models are different, there’s a bit more that needs to be done to pop the frunk.

After removing the round hole cover, you need to touch the leads of the wires hidden in the hole to a 9v battery. This will pop your frunk.

OP, after you’ve opened your frunk, you can then test your 12v battery to make sure it doesn’t have an internal short. Most smart battery chargers include this functionality.

If the battery is OK, use a charger to apply 12v to the system. Wait about 5 minutes after applying power and see if you can get the car to wake up. If you can, you know you have a 12v battery problem. As long as you keep the car awake, you can drive it.

If you are unable to get the car to wake up after you’ve applied power to the 12v system, there is something else wrong.

If the car does wake up, but then dies as soon as you remove the 12v power source, you most likely have a problem with your DC/DC converter.

 

[BluePowerUp]

Would be nice to know the outcome. Don’t leave us hanging. May help others in the future.

Vehicle required towing to Tesla Dealership where battery was replaced under warranty. After watching multiple video’s I failed to ask if the battery was replaced with lead or lithium 12v battery. All good for now.

 

[Rmchrger]

I just went through this twice. First was update 2021.12.25.7 a few weeks ago. App didnt work, huge list of things that didnt work. It bricked the car like yours. After trying roadside with no luck ( they said car wasn't responding) I made a service appointment. Reboots and shutdown didn't work. Emergency release the frunk, battery at 13.4v so wasn't that. Hours later I heard the high voltage contacts cycle and everything fixed itself. Weird, Canceled the appointment. Good for a few weeks... then...
Second time, another update 2021.24.4 then instantly 2021.24.5 loaded right after with no pause. Same thing completely bricked the car except I could vent the windows and that was the only thing I could do. Again roadside said car wouldn't communicate. Failed update. Again reboots and shutdown did nothing.
This time I took action. Vented windows, it was locked, so I reached in with a rod and opened the door. Thankfully no alarm. Emergency released the frunk again, disconnected the 12v, measured at 13.4 again. Took out the back seat and disconnected the connector on the right, next to the 12v power. NOT the high voltage on the left side relays clunked off. Pretty much a forced shutdown. Plugged back in, hooked up 12v and was back to normal again...wth.
2 days later another update. 2021.24.10. I'm starting to sweat again... this time, more planning, I unplugged my ssd for sentry mode, and my OBD reader I use for scan my tesla. Unlocked the car, rolled a window down opened the frunk in preparation...lol. Installed this update with no issues,
Previously, roadside asked if my ssd (flash drive for sentry) was plugged in. Said sometimes it can create issues with updates. I have no idea if the plugged in ssd or the odb caused anything, or just crappy updates. But... it worked this last time so I will disconnect them for every update from now on. Maybe I got something else going on but I won't know till the next update or updats.
Sorry for the long post but trying to get all the info out there.
Hope this helps someone else.
Oh ya, 2020 stealth, Dec 2019 delivery.

 

[brother27]

Just having problems with the phone app. For some reason I can still operate the car, but phone app doesn't load.
"Failed to load" "Please check your internet connection, disable your ad-blocker or VPN and try again."

 

[Ecoli]

Do you have internet access from your phone
Try restarting your phone

 

[smatthew]

Does not matter what % the main battery is. If the 12v is low, it can't close the contactors to the main battery to charge the 12v battery. Sort of a catch 22. Google replacing model 3 12v battery it will show you where the 12 v connector is under the seat and how to swap battery. DISCONNECT NEGATIVE POST FIRST ALWAYS!. If your wrench is on the positive and it touches any metal you have a real problem in your hand! You have a dead battery. The frunk will only open with outside power if the battery is no good. the outside jump will not work if the battery is at the correct voltage. Measure the battery in another car, it will be much higher than 11.4. 11.4 is dead. New battery is $85 at Tesla or have a ranger install it, you may get it covered under warranty. There are literally hundreds of dead 12v battery posts at 2 years. I proactively replaced mine at 3 years.

Bumper post works if a) 12V battery is dead OR b) car is unlocked.

 

[Rice&Curry]

I just went through this twice. First was update 2021.12.25.7 a few weeks ago. App didnt work, huge list of things that didnt work. It bricked the car like yours. After trying roadside with no luck ( they said car wasn't responding) I made a service appointment. Reboots and shutdown didn't work. Emergency release the frunk, battery at 13.4v so wasn't that. Hours later I heard the high voltage contacts cycle and everything fixed itself. Weird, Canceled the appointment. Good for a few weeks... then...
Second time, another update 2021.24.4 then instantly 2021.24.5 loaded right after with no pause. Same thing completely bricked the car except I could vent the windows and that was the only thing I could do. Again roadside said car wouldn't communicate. Failed update. Again reboots and shutdown did nothing.
This time I took action. Vented windows, it was locked, so I reached in with a rod and opened the door. Thankfully no alarm. Emergency released the frunk again, disconnected the 12v, measured at 13.4 again. Took out the back seat and disconnected the connector on the right, next to the 12v power. NOT the high voltage on the left side relays clunked off. Pretty much a forced shutdown. Plugged back in, hooked up 12v and was back to normal again...wth.
2 days later another update. 2021.24.10. I'm starting to sweat again... this time, more planning, I unplugged my ssd for sentry mode, and my OBD reader I use for scan my tesla. Unlocked the car, rolled a window down opened the frunk in preparation...lol. Installed this update with no issues,
Previously, roadside asked if my ssd (flash drive for sentry) was plugged in. Said sometimes it can create issues with updates. I have no idea if the plugged in ssd or the odb caused anything, or just crappy updates. But... it worked this last time so I will disconnect them for every update from now on. Maybe I got something else going on but I won't know till the next update or updats.
Sorry for the long post but trying to get all the info out there.
Hope this helps someone else.
Oh ya, 2020 stealth, Dec 2019 delivery.

Thanks for the update- very informative , I will avoid updating before or during a road trip

 

[brother27]

Do you have internet access from your phone
Try restarting your phone

Restarting worked... thanks

 

[jjrandorin]

Vehicle required towing to Tesla Dealership where battery was replaced under warranty. After watching multiple video’s I failed to ask if the battery was replaced with lead or lithium 12v battery. All good for now.

By "battery" it sounds like you mean 12V battery. Tesla does not offer a lithium 12v battery for model 3 so you did not get one. You got the one tesla offers which is currently a $85 cost part if not covered under warranty.

 

[flyingowl]

Of course Tesla still can't get 12v battery warning working properly.

 

[Rice&Curry]

Of course Tesla still can't get 12v battery warning working properly.

Yes, it is the Achilles heel in Tesla.