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Longer term Ohmmu experiences?

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This kind of email sounds like they are relying on Tesla changing their system, not changing their product to work with Tesla's current system.
It does sorta seem that way, doesn't it? He didn't mention in the email the success they're having with v4 but did in an email to me. However, who's to say that Tesla doesn't tweak a setting in a future update and were back to square one. :(
 
Does this update mean it might recognize the Lion Battery if installed and stop with the low voltage check or whatever it is that's causing issues?



1655774487221.png
 
Does this update mean it might recognize the Lion Battery if installed
No. This just tells you what hardware your car had from the factory. The 15V Lithium batteries from Tesla use a lot of different HW in the car.

The fact that they are doing this likely means they have features coming that require specific hardware that you otherwise have no idea you have.
 
No. This just tells you what hardware your car had from the factory. The 15V Lithium batteries from Tesla use a lot of different HW in the car.

The fact that they are doing this likely means they have features coming that require specific hardware that you otherwise have no idea you have.
Ahh man I thought it sounded promising like I could pop in my Ohmmu battery and it would detect it and all would be good again.
 
Well, this just keeps getting better and better. :rolleyes: This new V3 battery is WAY worse than the V2. Now I've got a Tesla app popup on my phone that says I need to schedule service to have the 12v replaced.

"Schedule service to replace low voltage battery, Software will not update until the battery is replaced".


So I guess I have to swap back to my led acid battery until Ohmmu figures this out.
Does anyone know how to reset this so the 12v warning goes away? I rebooted but it came right back immediately.

Thanks
B.
Do you know how to do the hard reset? Google that and Mountain Pass Performance - they have the best/simplest didactic on how to do this. A normal OS reset (what you appear to be referencing in the rebooting?) will not do it. Would you be able to live with version 3 reset every 4 months? I'd be okay with that. Not every week for sure. But we got four months out of version 3 (new battery with the small resistor/sensor module) before it required a reset. I'm still waiting to hear from Ohmmu about the latest round of 12 volt error codes. It would be nice if Ohmmu could get their system to tolerate 14.9 V. Because Tesla seems committed to that level of voltage Drive for the 12 volt charging. What's weird is that the book on AGM batteries suggests no higher than 14.4 volts. The warnings are harsh on that point so I don't understand what Tesla is doing.
 
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Do you know how to do the hard reset? Google that and Mountain Pass Performance - they have the best/simplest didactic on how to do this. A normal OS reset (what you appear to be referencing in the rebooting?) will not do it. Would you be able to live with version 3 reset every 4 months? I'd be okay with that. Not every week for sure. But we got four months out of version 3 (new battery with the small resistor/sensor module) before it required a reset. I'm still waiting to hear from Ohmmu about the latest round of 12 volt error codes. It would be nice if Ohmmu could get their system to tolerate 14.9 V. Because Tesla seems committed to that level of voltage Drive for the 12 volt charging. What's weird is that the book on AGM batteries suggests no higher than 14.4 volts. The warnings are harsh on that point so I don't understand what Tesla is doing.
I found it.. Tesla Model 3 Hard Reset - Mountain Pass Performance

You're right, performing the hard reset really isn't that difficult, especially if it's once every 4mos. The biggest mistake I made was swapping out my V2 for V3. It seemed within a couple of weeks I got the "Please schedule service to replace your 12v battery". My V3 is sitting in its box right in front of where I park in the garage mocking me. ;) I may put it back in and note exactly how long I can run it before getting that Service 12v message. (Just to test exactly how long for sure and if the latest update from tesla 22.16.1.2 may have made it better, worse, or the same)

Just an observation and not sure if this is accurate or not but ever since switching back to the Lead Acid. I notice a tad bit more phantom drain than I had with the Li-On. I assume the Lead gets topped off from the HV Battery more frequently than the Li-On did. Before I would park with a certain percentage and 7 or 8 hours later it was still the same if I didn't have Sentry running. Now I get about 4 or 5 % loss.

If you hear anything from Sean please let us know. I'm also curious how things are going in their testing. It was May 31st that he told me their test car was working well and that they were scaling things up that week to a dozen.
 
I found it.. Tesla Model 3 Hard Reset - Mountain Pass Performance

You're right, performing the hard reset really isn't that difficult, especially if it's once every 4mos. The biggest mistake I made was swapping out my V2 for V3. It seemed within a couple of weeks I got the "Please schedule service to replace your 12v battery". My V3 is sitting in its box right in front of where I park in the garage mocking me. ;) I may put it back in and note exactly how long I can run it before getting that Service 12v message. (Just to test exactly how long for sure and if the latest update from tesla 22.16.1.2 may have made it better, worse, or the same)

Just an observation and not sure if this is accurate or not but ever since switching back to the Lead Acid. I notice a tad bit more phantom drain than I had with the Li-On. I assume the Lead gets topped off from the HV Battery more frequently than the Li-On did. Before I would park with a certain percentage and 7 or 8 hours later it was still the same if I didn't have Sentry running. Now I get about 4 or 5 % loss.

If you hear anything from Sean please let us know. I'm also curious how things are going in their testing. It was May 31st that he told me their test car was working well and that they were scaling things up that week to a dozen.
When you say version 3 does that include the little sensor or power resistor module? This must be version 4 they're working on then. I still haven't heard back from them and their support email response time appears to have become significantly longer than it used to be
 
When you say version 3 does that include the little sensor or power resistor module? This must be version 4 they're working on then. I still haven't heard back from them and their support email response time appears to have become significantly longer than it used to be
Honestly, my V3 looks exactly like my V2 battery. I was expecting to see maybe something attached to V3 but nope. I assumed it must be internal. when I explained to Sean that I was getting VCFront errors with V2 he was the one who said V3 would likely be better and invited me to exchange it under warranty. In my communication with him, I regularly refer to the new one he's testing as V4.
 
Honestly, my V3 looks exactly like my V2 battery. I was expecting to see maybe something attached to V3 but nope. I assumed it must be internal. when I explained to Sean that I was getting VCFront errors with V2 he was the one who said V3 would likely be better and invited me to exchange it under warranty. In my communication with him, I regularly refer to the new one he's testing as V4.
So you got a version of version 3 that had no add-on module? That sounds like a version 2.2! I thought all version 3s had the add-on module that had to bridge the positive and negative. I'm assuming that that was some kind of varistor or power resistor that allowed a voltage drop protecting the battery from more than 14.6 volts.
 
So you got a version of version 3 that had no add-on module? That sounds like a version 2.2! I thought all version 3s had the add-on module that had to bridge the positive and negative. I'm assuming that that was some kind of varistor or power resistor that allowed a voltage drop protecting the battery from more than 14.6 volts.

That's my understanding. Unless there is a way to know for sure which model I have but this is what I got from Sean when he suggested I replace it

"If you aren't on the V3 and are experiencing the alerts that is the best next step, I'll include the information you need to submit that in a separate email from us now."

When I did my swap via the Warranty page I got a new battery that looked like V2 so I just assumed they might have moved whatever external module internally.
 
Looks like it is about 14.5V to me, for 2018 Model 3. And it is not an AGM battery, FYI.

View attachment 819314.
Are you saying that the Lead OEM battery is not AGM? So that widely quoted bit of information is wrong? The other problem with that Alan in all honesty is that why should a BMS for a Lithium ferric phosphate battery which can tolerate 14.5 volts of charging see that as dangerous? Aftermarket batteries with BMS that reportedly go to 15 V have not thrown the error codes. There are also many quoted reports of folks showing more than 14.5 volts on the charging subsystem. So I suspect there's quite a bit more variability on this than what your graph captures.
 
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Are you saying that the Lead OEM battery is not AGM? So that widely quoted bit of information is wrong?

That’s what I am saying. The details have been covered and are posted elsewhere here. It’s somewhat specialized as I recall in that it has some deeper cycle capability, but it’s an $85 battery so that alone suggests it’s not AGM (but the manufacturer spec sheets are posted for the Atlas which make it clear it is not AGM). I think the confusion arose because of a different situation for Model S.

. So I suspect there's quite a bit more variability on this than what your graph captures.
Entirely possible. Also relies on accuracy of my monitor. Mine doesn’t vary much but I haven’t attempted to calibrate it. My guess is it is close though. But no reason there could not be vehicle to vehicle variation - depends on their spec.
 
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That's my understanding. Unless there is a way to know for sure which model I have but this is what I got from Sean when he suggested I replace it

"If you aren't on the V3 and are experiencing the alerts that is the best next step, I'll include the information you need to submit that in a separate email from us now."

When I did my swap via the Warranty page I got a new battery that looked like V2 so I just assumed they might have moved whatever external module internally.
When did you get your version 3? If it's about the same time as I did it's very doubtful that that module is internal. I got mine in early March.
 
That’s what I am saying. The details have been covered and are posted elsewhere here. It’s somewhat specialized as I recall in that it has some deeper cycle capability, but it’s an $85 battery so that alone suggests it’s not AGM (but the manufacturer spec sheets are posted for the Atlas which make it clear it is not AGM). I think the confusion arose because of a different situation for Model S.


Entirely possible. Also relies on accuracy of my monitor. Mine doesn’t vary much but I haven’t attempted to calibrate it. My guess is it is close though. But no reason there could not be vehicle to vehicle variation - depends on their spec.
We've got two issues but one is much more substantive. . Whether or not the OEM is AGM or not is significantly less relevant than the overwhelming evidence that Tesla has been messing around with charging voltage on the 12-volt subsystem, starting with firmware updates in late 2021. Lots of folks have reported, in support of Ohmmu's own claim, that charging voltage has been as high as 14.9. What's weird about that is even regular lead acid is not supposed to be above 14.7 or about 2.45 volts per cell as an absolute maximum. My wife's car's OEM battery failed within a week of this new charging protocol being pushed out in late 2021 so I just wonder how many other OEM batteries also were pushed into failure. We have also heard the Tesla dialed it back from the high 14 Volt range maybe to 14.5 or 14.6. But it seems like Tesla's been moving the goalposts recently as my car's battery management system, which was updated, disconnected. Reset fixed that but you wonder when the other shoe is going to drop
 
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We've got two issues but one is much more substantive. . Whether or not the OEM is AGM or not is significantly less relevant than the overwhelming evidence that Tesla has been messing around with charging voltage on the 12-volt subsystem, starting with firmware updates in late 2021. Lots of folks have reported, in support of Ohmmu's own claim, that charging voltage has been as high as 14.9. What's weird about that is even regular lead acid is not supposed to be above 14.7 or about 2.45 volts per cell as an absolute maximum. My wife's car's OEM battery failed within a week of this new charging protocol being pushed out in late 2021 so I just wonder how many other OEM batteries also were pushed into failure. We have also heard the Tesla dialed it back from the high 14 Volt range maybe to 14.5 or 14.6. But it seems like Tesla's been moving the goalposts recently as my car's battery management system, which was updated, disconnected. Reset fixed that but you wonder when the other shoe is going to drop
Spot checked several other months and it looks like it was in the 14.2-14.3V range ending in October 2021 or so. But I have been on FSD Beta path subsequently.
 
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