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Lost half my Ludicrous upgrade

Discussion in 'Model S: Battery & Charging' started by sorka, Mar 7, 2018.

  1. sorka

    sorka Active Member

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    Merced, CA
    Recently, sometime in the last 4 months, my max battery power @90% @5 minutes from max battery ready(i.e. not fully warm but close) has dropped from 458KW (1535 amps * 298 volts) to 336KW (1535 amps * 284 volts) (+- a few KW).

    It seems like it must be battery degradation since the current remains at 1535 amps but the voltage has dropped at the same charge level at the same temperature.


    Prior to the upgrade, max power under the same conditions was 414KW, so this represents about half of the Ludicrous upgrade lost.

    Just curious what other P85D owners Insane or Ludicrous are seeing under the same conditions?
     
    • Informative x 1
  2. Zextraterrestrial

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    after a couple of years voltage seems to sag a bit more. & temperature makes power more finicky
    but just a P85
     
    • Like x 1
  3. MP3Mike

    MP3Mike Well-Known Member

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    What firmware version does your car have?

    You've got some interesting math there. ;) Pre upgrade: 414kW, post upgrade: 458kW. Upgrade = 44kW. So if you lost half of your upgrade you would be at 436kW. If you are really at 336kW, you have lost 277% of the upgrade not 50%.
     
    • Like x 1
  4. sorka

    sorka Active Member

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    Thanks for that :) Yup, should have written 436, not 336.
     
  5. yeahdickey

    yeahdickey Member

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    How (what tool) are you using to measure kW output? I also have a v1 p90DL and new firmware was installed today. I will run same test though I don’t have baseline.

    My Car also “feels” slower though I also just got car back after a week in service.
     
  6. n2mb_racing

    n2mb_racing Member

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    Cold battery?
     
  7. sorka

    sorka Active Member

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    No, that's using the battery heater from "max battery".
     
  8. sorka

    sorka Active Member

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    The easy one is PowerTools for iOS but that won't give you current/voltage, just power in kW.

    TM-Spy is better but requires a $15 bt elm327 dongle and a cable adapter that will plug into the CANBUS connector. I made my own.
     
  9. Ande

    Ande Member

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    Scan my Tesla is even more detailed.
     
    • Informative x 1
  10. bhzmark

    bhzmark Supporting Member

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    try 100% SOC. I know someone, maybe you, was convinced more power was at 90% SOC, but I got my higher power, and lower 1/4 mi ET closer to 100%. And I got my fastest ET, 11.3, on a very hot day, just before the battery went into cool mode.

    Warm ambient temps assisting the battery heater and bringing it heat soaked right to brink of needing to implement remedial cooling, is probably the recipe for the most power. Your baseline condition that you are trying to replicate could have been more under those conditions.

    Although thinking about it more, i tmight not have been the battery that was too hot and kicking in the cooling, but the motor etc. So maybe the battery still has some headroom to go hotter, over and above what max battery power heater can generate. And you need to get that through ambient temp or supercharging or use.

    But it wouldn't surprise me if their were some degradation eventually as well.
     
    • Like x 2
  11. sorka

    sorka Active Member

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    Even if that were true, my previous readings of mid high 450s was at 90%.

    As far as the motor temp, the battery was heat to just shorted of reaching max battery and then driven lightly for a few miles to warm up the bearings on the DUs and then full bore so the motor was already cool and battery already warm to start out.
     

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