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Loud burst of air, now left side suspension bottomed out, diagnostic help
- Thread starter BostonBurley
- Start date
Left vs right makes sense for the solenoid block since left side shares a rail and right side shares a rail. We will see soon enough, though. I have the correct part en route and should have it installed by the weekend.
My suspension includes aftermarket parts, so a calibration would raise my car to standard height with lowering links. Don’t really want to go back to stock and then back to adjustable links, with two alignments mixed in.
Wouldn’t need to swap. What we’re saying is that Toolbox is needed to clear any error codes logged. The calibration sequence just goes through each corner and won’t care about actual height measurement. It’s all relative to each other, ie fronts match height wise.My suspension includes aftermarket parts, so a calibration would raise my car to standard height with lowering links. Don’t really want to go back to stock and then back to adjustable links, with two alignments mixed in.
Share a rail? Didn’t think so since the block controls each corner independently. @Gtech previously posted the block diagram/schematic of the block and there were no shared rails. Either way, since you have the part coming, you will indeed know for sure.
Be forewarned about needing Toolbox like I said in the other response. Car was left slammed since all the air is released when you replace the solenoid. Still drivable (barely) in my case.
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
Yeaaaaaaaaaah but the service center won't do a re-calibration if you have aftermarket lowering links on
I'm having to spend 3x more on suspension components just to buy the ones with the T stamped in them so they'll still service the car if something else breaks.
Unless they’re specifically looking for lowering links, why would they bother taking off the wheels? If you request a Ranger or SC to perform a 10min calibration, will they check to see if there are green links poking through the wheels?Yeaaaaaaaaaah but the service center won't do a re-calibration if you have aftermarket lowering links on
I'm having to spend 3x more on suspension components just to buy the ones with the T stamped in them so they'll still service the car if something else breaks.
Wouldn’t be surprised if you said yes, but just seems petty if so, especially if you’re not trying to get a warranty claim. Adjustable camber arms, etc., sure.
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
Yes they will. Or at least, the service center near me checks. And I'm not saying they just check to avoid it being a warranty claim, they flat out won't touch the car with aftermarket stuff on it.
That’s supposed to be Tesla’s official stance on aftermarket parts.
I have aftermarket adjustable toe, camber, links, air struts, and all links and control arms are aftermarket. I don’t even consider the service center.
Adjustable parts I can understand, but control arms, sway bar end links, etc. I wouldn’t think they’d complain about.
Must also be location dependent because I told them up front I replaced the compressor myself, but the car still wouldn’t level itself. Tech cleared all codes and the car raised itself and leveled out. That’s when he did the calibration/reset. Sent me on my way for $235 (diag fee + cal) when they could’ve said the compressor and solenoid needed replacing.
Hope all works out for you Boston. You and Agg have had quite the suspension journey! Learned a lot I’m sure, just like me and the SAS issues.
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
I feel for @BostonBurley - my issues are brought on by my own OCD fiddling with stuff, he didn't ask for this nightmare!
In my experience, even for aftermarket control arms and end links - if you have an issue and there are aftermarket parts in the area, they'll blame it on aftermarket parts and refuse to work on the car unless you authorize them to remove the aftermarket parts and replace with OEM.
I’ve had a few dozen hours of research done and it seems clearing any potential codes BEFORE swapping parts would be wise. I don’t have the dollars or patience to wait weeks for a service appt.
But I need to do it. Resetting the car to factory settings, etc, will have no effect I presume.
Rear camber arms prevented Tesla from messing with my car last year. Most recently my Model X wheels and a front spacer meant they weren’t allowed to level it or do an alignment, things I both really needed.
Most likely no. When you replace the solenoid you need to disconnect the 12v as well as the fireman’s loop so that’s as hard of a reset as it gets. Things could work fine afterward or any stored codes may prevent the compressor from behaving normally. That’s why we complain about Toolbox not being readily available/affordable. They need to release a Toolbox Lite where you can do simple things like clear codes.
Before I install the new valve box I’m actually taking it into Tesla in a few days. I just need any stored fault codes cleared, and I’d like to know what the codes were. Scheduled via the app and got a reply with an estimate for $120, or 1/2 hr.
Tinkered with the suspension and found that at Very high, the left side was the lowest, at standard it was slightly higher. Then I found that my air compressor runs for 25-30seconds at a time and there’s only a very faint blow off sound, like there’s hardly any built up pressure.
It also sounds like it’s under extreme load, changing the pitch and sounding slow.
I think my air compressor is taking a crap.
It also sounds like it’s under extreme load, changing the pitch and sounding slow.
I think my air compressor is taking a crap.
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
IIRC you have a nosecone car, right? If so, this one is beefier, and still a plug and play replacement:
www.summitracing.com
Arnott Air Suspension P-3283 Arnott New OE Air Suspension Compressors | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Arnott New OE Air Suspension Compressors with qualifying orders of $109. Shop On-Board Vehicle Air Compressors at Summit Racing.
Arnott never had them in stock direct so double check with Summit they will actually get them in early June.IIRC you have a nosecone car, right? If so, this one is beefier, and still a plug and play replacement:
Arnott Air Suspension P-3283 Arnott New OE Air Suspension Compressors | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Arnott New OE Air Suspension Compressors with qualifying orders of $109. Shop On-Board Vehicle Air Compressors at Summit Racing.
An alternative that I used. Rebuilt, but worked fine. Great customer service since I had to get a second one thinking they sent me a bum unit.
Tesla Model S 2011-2015 OEM Rebuild Air Suspension Compressor Pump (6006403-00-A)
Find amazing deals on Tesla Model S 2011-2015 OEM Rebuild Air Suspension Compressor Pump 6006403-00-A. Order today and receive Fast Delivery and Discounted Prices!
rebuildmastertech.com
RMT order a long time ago with struts never shipped, they didn’t seem to care when I canceled and went with Suncore, which I am shipping back this week. I don’t think I’ll deal with the Florida suspension rebuild crowd anymore as I had 3 of 3 failed experiences.Arnott never had them in stock direct so double check with Summit they will actually get them in early June.
An alternative that I used. Rebuilt, but worked fine. Great customer service since I had to get a second one thinking they sent me a bum unit.
Tesla Model S 2011-2015 OEM Rebuild Air Suspension Compressor Pump (6006403-00-A)
Find amazing deals on Tesla Model S 2011-2015 OEM Rebuild Air Suspension Compressor Pump 6006403-00-A. Order today and receive Fast Delivery and Discounted Prices!
I am going with rebuilt oem air suspension, about the same price as Suncore, so I just may snag a rebuilt compressor. For that matter, I may buy a junkyard unit for now and wait for the Arnott to become available.
Maybe I just have a fussy suspension car? What a hobby this has become.
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