After installing these I’m not so sure that 1/8 npt wasn’t correct after allSimilar search for me via rapa and I found it is 1/8th G (BPS), so no taper, so I ordered the push to connects 6mm OD X 1/8” G thread.View attachment 811040
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After installing these I’m not so sure that 1/8 npt wasn’t correct after allSimilar search for me via rapa and I found it is 1/8th G (BPS), so no taper, so I ordered the push to connects 6mm OD X 1/8” G thread.View attachment 811040
Correct. The G thread bottomed out when tightening. Dammit!I’m almost 100% sure it’s 1/8 npt
I ordered a new affordable compressor from a place I know with friendly returns. Also scheduled a service appointment For next week, assuming the new compressor doesn’t fix things. At that point I’ll just put the oem compressor back in and ask them Tesla to just perform whatever work. Good grief.The compressor is def working overtime, but the filling and purging is exactly what happened to me after my last swap in of compressor and valve block. That’s when I threw in the towel and went to the SC as I stated earlier and got a call in a couple hours saying codes were cleared, calibration performed, and car is working as expected again.
Utterly frustrating right? Deja vu hearing your updates. What happened to my car “next” is that the rear will get jacked to very high and the front will slowly get lower and lower every day until the car looks like an extreme 70s muscle car.One more update:
After installing partial reinstall, with no luck, I staged full reinstall and let it run at the end of the night. Came out today with both sides level, but front wheels had 1-2 fingers space and rear wheels about 3-4. Exciting.
I got in and it showed red icon that leveling is unavailable now.
MCU1 has a sort of crippled service mode compared to MCU2 so I don't think you can see hidden alerts with this mode on your MCU 1Went to a service center to reinstall firmware. The service screen says “Alerts to Check: 5”. I don’t think it’s referring to my service notifications. Any idea how to see or delete these in service mode?
Edit: I tapped “reset tpms” by accident and it now says I have 4 service alerts.
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Yeah the rear on my car about a year ago was all the way up while front was “standard”.Utterly frustrating right? Deja vu hearing your updates. What happened to my car “next” is that the rear will get jacked to very high and the front will slowly get lower and lower every day until the car looks like an extreme 70s muscle car.
The alerts you showed aren’t anything to worry about. Those are normal/simple warnings. The red SAS icon is the killer. I hope clearing those errors and recalibrating the system will finally solve your issues.
Installed the new compressor today and although it seems a much nicer and quieter unit than my old one, the behavior of the compressor remains. Lots of long periods pressurizing and then blowing off loud bursts of air. Just an update as I plan to take it in to service and have more info in about a week’s time.MCU1 has a sort of crippled service mode compared to MCU2 so I don't think you can see hidden alerts with this mode on your MCU 1
Did you tried changing wheel size? That's a deep reset also
Deja vu has come full circle. Changed the lowering links back to stock and also changed the wheel setting for a hard reset. When it came to life again the compressor ran and purged several times. When I got out the back was fully raised and the front appears to be in Standard, height-wise. The setting on the screen is Very High. Driving this 20 miles to Tesla might Be unwise. In High, the front will drop further, and above 34mph it will drop to standard and the front might be slammed by that point. About a year ago it was identical to this, actually, and in standard I wasn’t able to turn my front wheels without breaking the fender liners and bumper tabs (oops). Maybe a tow isn’t such a wild idea.Utterly frustrating right? Deja vu hearing your updates. What happened to my car “next” is that the rear will get jacked to very high and the front will slowly get lower and lower every day until the car looks like an extreme 70s muscle car.
The alerts you showed aren’t anything to worry about. Those are normal/simple warnings. The red SAS icon is the killer. I hope clearing those errors and recalibrating the system will finally solve your issues.
You’ll be fine driving to the SC. Front end won’t slam. Auto lowering won’t work either. With the back so high, don’t drive terribly fast if there’s freeway involved.Deja vu has come full circle. Changed the lowering links back to stock and also changed the wheel setting for a hard reset. When it came to life again the compressor ran and purged several times. When I got out the back was fully raised and the front appears to be in Standard, height-wise. The setting on the screen is Very High. Driving this 20 miles to Tesla might Be unwise. In High, the front will drop further, and above 34mph it will drop to standard and the front might be slammed by that point. About a year ago it was identical to this, actually, and in standard I wasn’t able to turn my front wheels without breaking the fender liners and bumper tabs (oops). Maybe a tow isn’t such a wild idea. View attachment 814653
I took it for a short drive and it lowered at the high/standard increments as I sped up, to my surprise. It lowered incrementally about 1.25”front and rear. Hmmm….You’ll be fine driving to the SC. Front end won’t slam. Auto lowering won’t work either. With the back so high, don’t drive terribly fast if there’s freeway involved.