This is crazy. Not supposed to be this difficult. I swear there’s a register/variable not getting cleared (for you software geeks out there) when an error is thrown. It should just stop any further attempts to level the car vs getting mixed signals and jacking the back way up, front slammed, side to side differences, etc.
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Loud burst of air, now left side suspension bottomed out, diagnostic help
- Thread starter BostonBurley
- Start date
Driving there was actually alright bc I was in traffic the entire time, it went smoothly overall.
Service guy was cool checking me in but the tech he brought out from the bays was extremely vague. “Take my word for it” kind of a guy about really big decisions for me. This during was a 15-25 minute conversation, half inside and the rest outside looking at my car. By the end, my estimate had increased without adding work to the original estimate. He said $240 (per hour) diagnostic will only cover pulling up codes and removing them. Then, they can calibrate ride height for $48. Anything else, and I need to swap the compressor out to the oem unit and change quick connect fittings back to oem Voss fittings. That was the summary of our convo. If I hadn’t been inquiring for specifics to his basic rejection of my car being a Tesla, I would’ve had to go home, swap everything and set up a new appointment.
With each hurdle we overcame, he would bring up something out of thin air (have you paid your estimate already? No? Good, it’s gonna change. Whoever did your estimate did it wrong.) and I’m just standing there like THANK YOU SIR MAY I HAVE ANOTHER.
It doesn’t take $240 to connect to the car and view data. Like sitting in a car and looking at a screen isn’t a $240 job.
He told me “we don’t even ride in a car without charging $120 diagnostic drive fee”.
Inevitably they took my car in, but I have no confidence this guy is going fix it. He kept guaranteeing me the car wouldn’t be back to normal after they do this work. He’s not going to prove himself wrong for me.
At least my service advisor pulled a months-of-dust 2020 Performance S Ludicrous Plus car out for me. No floor mats, dirtiest Tesla I’ve ever seen, yet, I wasn’t about to complain. He told me that the Uber back to my house was $125 so he justified the car bc of that. Not bc I have kids or bc I’ve been a Tesla owner for ten years, yano.
Believe me, I’m rooting for you man. Std diag fee is equivalent to any trades-person coming out to your house. Even if they take only 5mins to confirm the main board on your water heater is dead (like I told them! Lol), it’s still a $125 trip/diag fee.
I thought I got a pretty dirty loaner two weeks ago, but yours does sound worse. Not gonna complain as I got one to begin with. Was actually going to wash it since it was bothering me.
I thought I got a pretty dirty loaner two weeks ago, but yours does sound worse. Not gonna complain as I got one to begin with. Was actually going to wash it since it was bothering me.
I was in line at the car wash as soon as I saw one, but it moved so slow I had to be on my way. Oh well, dirty flies under the radar.Believe me, I’m rooting for you man. Std diag fee is equivalent to any trades-person coming out to your house. Even if they take only 5mins to confirm the main board on your water heater is dead (like I told them! Lol), it’s still a $125 trip/diag fee.
I thought I got a pretty dirty loaner two weeks ago, but yours does sound worse. Not gonna complain as I got one to begin with. Was actually going to wash it since it was bothering me.
I am extremely grateful and even a little thrilled with the loaner. 778hp, 848tq, 387 range. That is written in the dust on the glass roof. Something was wrong with this car for a long period or it wouldn’t be awaiting detail for so long. Its gray with gray 21’s, it has the cream and bamboo and black interior, just perfect. And the suspension options and drive feel is incredible. Love it.
With that said, researching where to buy 6mm Od to 1/8 male npt connectors in Los Angeles has left me at a loss. The bag shops, tuner shops, they don’t stock small diameter fittings or even Voss style in any size. Hmmm.
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
Lol. That’s what’s in there now. The push to connect feature is not oem and he said they won’t diagnose etc without oem fittings.
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
I gotcha. Well, then I see two options:
1) If the other block you bought came with fittings, just use those. Like this one did: Air Suspension Compressor Pump Valve Block OEM Tesla Model S 2013 | eBay
2) Land Rover uses a 6mm air line on their air suspension, maybe that would work. Their part number for the voss fitting is LR044836.
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1) If the other block you bought came with fittings, just use those. Like this one did: Air Suspension Compressor Pump Valve Block OEM Tesla Model S 2013 | eBay
2) Land Rover uses a 6mm air line on their air suspension, maybe that would work. Their part number for the voss fitting is LR044836.
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Gtech
Active Member
If you install the Voss connector in the valve block and remove the white insert afterwards you can push the line all the way in and will lock it self.
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
My concern would be - Tesla is sooo finicky about OEM vs anything else, are they ONLY accepting of the Tesla voss connector? Because technically, anything other than their own is aftermarket. I'd hate for Boston to go through all this trouble to just be told that it's not the tesla voss connector. So I'm wondering if buying a used block with OEM fittings and then reusing those would be the best bet?
Gtech
Active Member
There is no 'Tesla' stanced in the Voss connectors because they use Voss connectors for oem so just use oem Voss connectors.
I would reuse your old oem fittings and soap them before bringing the car in or buy 6 new Voss fittings.
I agree with you Tesla is trolling you because the system is leaking air or it is not but if we want them to take our money because we cannot get access to simple fault code reading and resetting we have to obey their rules and don't use other fittings then Voss and/or lowering links
Voss fittings are only available through RMT for $15/each. For that price I can buy another valve block that comes with the fittings… hmmm.
My old valve block fittings had very slow leaks where the o rings were brittle (10 years old). Almost every strut had the really slow leaking fitting issue, so it must be the age of the o-rings. Sort of nervous a used valve block with fittings might also have old fittings. I wonder if there’s something I can do to help seal the old fittings just to get me by. I’m going broke.
I sincerely didn’t know that until finishing installs on two sets. No wonder I went the thread seal tape route.
Gtech
Active Member
I have dimensions for the little o rings for the Voss connectors if you like.
8mm x 1.5mm
Best is to use proper acid free grease.
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
I’m wondering if I could remove the o-rings from my billion push to connect fittings…
Sorry I meant the inner o-rings were all leaking where they seal around the air hose.
Gtech
Active Member
I was just looking at it and the inner rings would surely be damaged if I attempted removal. The push to click inners are equally hard but a different setup.
I have new Voss fittings, but with the locking collars (the push to lock piece) removed. All you’d need to do is carefully secure them (squeeze) a quarter inch down the air lines before screwing them down. I still have the plastic push pins so could try reinstalling the collars as well. Either way, lmk if you want to try them. PM me and I’ll send them to you FoC.
Edit: just looked at my bag of air suspension goodies; only have two new fittings and six used; a ton of collars as well; the o-rings on the old fittings look good as I never had an actual leak
Edit: just looked at my bag of air suspension goodies; only have two new fittings and six used; a ton of collars as well; the o-rings on the old fittings look good as I never had an actual leak
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