Looks like it won’t be an issue, but if something changes I’ll gladly take those off your hands. Ironic how difficult it is to buy these fittings in the US unless paying $15/per.
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Loud burst of air, now left side suspension bottomed out, diagnostic help
- Thread starter BostonBurley
- Start date
Tesla is finished with the car, only saying the presence of aftermarket parts prevents them from analysis or diagnosis of anything. He tried to level it “as it is” and the same faults I brought it in with occurred while it was being leveled. I’m hoping the one thing I’ll get out of this is the knowledge of what the codes are, otherwise I don’t know what else to do!? Second time in a few months that my forum-suggested repair request from Tesla was not really understood and ultimately unsuccessful.
Invoice comments:
“Upon inspection found several aftermarket suspension components. Per customer request performed ride height calibration but vehicle failed suspension and alerts for suspension disabled remained. The right side upper control arm is higher than the left side. Advised customer to remove all aftermarket components and get vehicle back to original state for further diagnosis.” $288
Invoice comments:
“Upon inspection found several aftermarket suspension components. Per customer request performed ride height calibration but vehicle failed suspension and alerts for suspension disabled remained. The right side upper control arm is higher than the left side. Advised customer to remove all aftermarket components and get vehicle back to original state for further diagnosis.” $288
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
Man. This is pissing me off and it’s not even my car.
What would it take to get it "back to stock?"
What would it take to get it "back to stock?"
Unfortunately, this isn’t going to happen. They need to see camber arms, toe arms, upper control arms. Plus, oem air struts, oem fittings, etc.
They never wanted to mess with it and my convincing them to try was just a way of ensuring I got billed when I towed it home.
I sincerely despise elon, the car is a sh1t show, and there’s a dozen other EV’s on the market. Lol what am I doing here? Sincerely.
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
One other idea. Many of the Tesla approved Body Shops have Tesla Toolbox access......maybe try calling the ones around you and see if you can slip them some cash to run the re-level command as-is. I'd think they would be much more willing. The one near me did that for me a year or so back when the SC had a 3 week wait.
I went down that road and for whatever reason no one had Tesla toolbox any longer. The shops I knew had it no longer have it. There is the possible reality check that “clearing codes” isn’t a thing. Both locations told me it doesn’t work that way. I dunno. I’ve got to fix this to get rid of it but I’m suddenly disinterested.
I’m wondering about the air strut pressure valves, when I get my car back I’m gonna check them on the left side. I did have one fail out of the box from Suncore and they sent me a pair to replace it. The pressure valves that came with my Suncore struts are probably bottom rung, and I’m thinking I could replace them with the ones from my used Tesla air struts. Hmmm.
It’s an aftermarket compressor but they think it’s oem. Valve box is oem, fittings aren’t. But tech since added that he didn’t know I had aftermarket suspension components, which would also need to be replaced as a starting point for diagnosis. I get why they have policies like this, but I’m paying $240/hr, or $1,000/day, so they should attempt to clear codes as part of diagnosis, and they should force calibrate the vehicle instead of saying “yeah, it doesn’t want to level”.
Wait a sec… they didn’t even clear the codes vs just trying to calibrate?!?! THAT makes no sense and I’d be screaming until they did. They can play the “aftermarket” card if errors come back, but at a min should’ve cleared them as part of the diag and calibration fee.
Good news, I only had to pay $48 for ride height adj. and the oem parts I have to install are just air suspension related. They’re talking to the guy about why he said all suspension components and will call me tomorrow with specific list of what to change.
However, this is the first time my car has sat for 8 days with the red leveling light on the dash.
No air for 8 days and my left rear strut is bottomed out. I’ve got to drive home with it like that, but that strut or check valve are leaking.
However, this is the first time my car has sat for 8 days with the red leveling light on the dash.
No air for 8 days and my left rear strut is bottomed out. I’ve got to drive home with it like that, but that strut or check valve are leaking.
Get this: at the first Tesla SC months ago now, I was told that clearing codes isn’t a thing. He told me a hard reset with fireman’s loop for several minutes clears any stored codes.
I’ve got my work cut out for me, replacing rear Suncore struts with oem rears in 90+ degree heat. From there, I’ll troubleshoot leveling sensors by swapping front/rear on each side. If no results, I might find a bridge embankment at the end of a nice long straight.
Swapped out the troublesome left rear corner strut, reinstalled my oem strut, hard reset, etc, nothing changed. Identical. It just kept filling and purging. Front was sky high so I figured I’d get up to 19mph and have it drop. Instead, within 10 seconds of moderate acceleration and bumping and bouncing I heard pop, front somewhere, then POP, my rear left oem strut I just installed burst. I backed up thirty feet into my parking space and by then the back left was all the way down. Then, as the air kept going, it somehow filled back up, about 1/2” lower than before.
WHATS GOING ON???
I have two remaining ideas:
-Leveling sensors (diagnose; haven’t figured this out yet)
-air lines using a 25’ nylon air hose and quick connect, will run directly from valve box to check valve of each strut. Likely proving nothing but eliminating a hose leak I was unable to find.
WHATS GOING ON???
I have two remaining ideas:
-Leveling sensors (diagnose; haven’t figured this out yet)
-air lines using a 25’ nylon air hose and quick connect, will run directly from valve box to check valve of each strut. Likely proving nothing but eliminating a hose leak I was unable to find.
After the air pressure got out of control yesterday, I thought it’d be a good time to take a fresh look under the hood. The air compressor will run until it exceeds 150psi, purge down to around 130, and maintain that much pressure. I’m positive it’s gone north of 170/180 yesterday and a few months ago when left side of vehicle dropped.
I removed all airlines from the valve box and with each one I bled it down slowly. Each respective corner would lower until all the way down. The left side is actually all the way down after releasing air from the valve box.
The right side front is very low, I can fit one finger bt the tire and fender. However, that’s probably because the right rear is the same height it was before I started releasing air from the lines. Would that be a bad check valve? I’m out here to swap leveling sensors front to back so I can always replace the check valve on the right rear, albeit with another used one and nothing new.
I removed all airlines from the valve box and with each one I bled it down slowly. Each respective corner would lower until all the way down. The left side is actually all the way down after releasing air from the valve box.
The right side front is very low, I can fit one finger bt the tire and fender. However, that’s probably because the right rear is the same height it was before I started releasing air from the lines. Would that be a bad check valve? I’m out here to swap leveling sensors front to back so I can always replace the check valve on the right rear, albeit with another used one and nothing new.
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I swapped out the check valve on the rear right, but it did not make a difference when the car refilled. It was perfectly tilted as usual.
I’m done trying to find a shop with Tesla toolbox. I need 2.0 or 2.1, a cable, a laptop… and I have to pay a fee to use for an hour, a day or week etc.
I’m ready to order and download etc, but I can’t figure out what’s going on with that. All of these people on the forums seem to have copies they downloaded a while back, pdf’s, etc, but I’m having a hard time figuring out what to get and where to get it.
I’m done trying to find a shop with Tesla toolbox. I need 2.0 or 2.1, a cable, a laptop… and I have to pay a fee to use for an hour, a day or week etc.
I’m ready to order and download etc, but I can’t figure out what’s going on with that. All of these people on the forums seem to have copies they downloaded a while back, pdf’s, etc, but I’m having a hard time figuring out what to get and where to get it.
I gotta believe it’s software mang. I basically had the same weird behaviors as you after compressor/block replacement. It’d dump all the air from the reserve tank then try to refill instead of pumping up the struts first. Compressor would therm trip. Rinse, repeat. Driving a few miles and, same as you, it raised the car but then threw the red icon error.
All was fixed (well until aftermarket compressor died again) after they cleared codes and re-calibrated.
All was fixed (well until aftermarket compressor died again) after they cleared codes and re-calibrated.
That’s the road I’m going down now, even if it ends up being some other thing, I don’t want to think about the car until viewing it in toolbox.
Gtech
Active Member
hijack old thread. I bought a '15 with suspension not working and it flat to the ground. To make it drivable, I added two double air inlets and inflated the shocks with my shop compressor (135 PSI). The rear goes up plenty, but the front only rises about 2.75 inches before refusing to take more air. The stock compressor and solenoid are removed so nothing is plugged in, any idea of a shut off or reason it wouldn't rise higher in front?
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