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Loud pop, Model 3 died?

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Just woke up to go to the store. Driving 5-10 mph through my neighborhood. Loud pop like a flat tire and my car goes limp. No power to drive. Tried to restart and reboot.. Nothing.

Posting an image of the errors. I just got my car back from service replacing the front facia. Is this just completely random?

20200305_085501.jpg
 
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I just got my car back from service replacing the front facia. Is this just completely random?

Let us know what ends up being the problem. It sounds like it could be the pyrofuse, and if it is, your 12V battery will be dead soon. Can't see how it would be related to the front fascia, but maybe they pinched a wiring harness or something during reinstall and caused a short circuit.
 
I see references to the "pyro fuse" from time to time. What is it?

And to OP: What a bummer! I hope they get you back on the road quickly. Good luck with everything.

Little "explosive" fuse connecting the HV battery to the rest of the car. They pop if theres a short or something tries to pull too much current from the battery.
 
Thanks for all the info for those that responded and also the well wishes. The tow truck driver guessed it was a pyro fuse as well. They exclusively deal with Tesla's and he said he's heard of it happen from other co-workers/drivers but he had never dealt with it himself. Service center said it was likely that fuse or a motor? issue. They have not got back to me since I dropped it off this morning, I still have an active text chain with the service advisor. I will keep everyone updated as soon I as I get any info.

On the bright side, they gave me a Model X as a loaner...So I've been flexin to some friends today...Lemons into lemonade right? Just glad its all under warranty still and that I wasn't on the freeway going 65+ mph because that could have ended very badly. (Literally lost all power so regen breaks kick in and you slow down immediately, very scary).
 
Loud pop was the pyrotechnic fuse connecting the main battery to the car. Why it blew is something Tesla will have to tell you.

Right now the main screen and all of electronics in the car are running off of the 12v battery which you can find in the frunk if you remove the cowling that covers the area closest to the dash. It's just a normal lead acid car battery and it will run out of juice pretty quickly.

When I was rear-ended, I had it towed to Tesla because I wasn't sure where else to take it. The next day they told me they don't do body work and that I needed to take it to an autobody shop. When I went to go assist the tow truck driver with loading it back on the flat bed, it was completely dead. Couldn't open the doors, couldn't even unlock it.

I told the service center adviser and he said "hm yeah you need power to unlock it and to put it into tow mode; they probably have 12v support power at the repair place. Maybe use some skids to get it on the truck" and then went on his way. Well that wasn't working very well and another Tesla employee came by and said that we could charge it via a couple of cables that are tucked into the tow hook compartment. So we hook it up to the tow truck's battery and the hood pops open. We wait for 10 minutes and there's no charge. Something doesn't seem right so I went online on my phone and found out that the connectors in the tow hook compartment ONLY pop the frunk open to get you access to the 12v battery-- they cannot be used to jump the 12v system.

That's when I discovered the traditional battery in the frunk. Hooked the charger up to it, 10 minutes later we had enough power to put it into tow mode and away we went.

Wish the Tesla employees were a little more helpful. Anyway, could be useful information if you run into a similar situation in the future LOL
 
They said they still don't know and need more time but initial diagnosis points to rear motor.

I've had this car for 7 months and just barely put 7000 miles on it. And my rear motor blows. So much for that million miles.. Very troubling.

Unfortunately it happens to a small number of motors on the Model 3. You just have some back luck.
 
No, SR+ single rear-motor only.

I dont want to come off entitled or special, because this can happen to anyone and it obviously already has...It just my confidence is shaken...I can't help but think if this can happen to a brand new motor, it can happen to the brand new motor they use to replace it.

What if I'm on the freeway next time going 70mph? I can't shake the loss of confidence in my Tesla now..

Is it worth raising a concern to someone higher up, or just accept the repairs and move on?
 
No, SR+ single rear-motor only.

I dont want to come off entitled or special, because this can happen to anyone and it obviously already has...It just my confidence is shaken...I can't help but think if this can happen to a brand new motor, it can happen to the brand new motor they use to replace it.

What if I'm on the freeway next time going 70mph? I can't shake the loss of confidence in my Tesla now..

Is it worth raising a concern to someone higher up, or just accept the repairs and move on?
Sorry to hear about your issue. I just found out my particular build date may be one of the vehicles that may need a new HV battery according to a technical service bulletin (not a recall-only a limited number of vehicles affected). I won’t know for sure until I bring in to SC for them to check my VIN. Unfortunately, not much can be done at this point but to accept repairs and move on and be thankful it’s all under warranty.
 
Sorry to hear about your issue. I just found out my particular build date may be one of the vehicles that may need a new HV battery according to a technical service bulletin (not a recall-only a limited number of vehicles affected). I won’t know for sure until I bring in to SC for them to check my VIN. Unfortunately, not much can be done at this point but to accept repairs and move on and be thankful it’s all under warranty.
How’d you find this out?
 
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