Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Lowered my car this morning with adjustable links: Key steps that ensure precision

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Measured the ground clearance with the car lowered this morning. It's now about 4" all around. Given that I lowered the car about .75 at the low height setting, that's what it should be, given the above ground clearance data. But in the lowest setting rear camber is now -1.9, so lowering the car .75 inches resulted in a .9 change in the rear camber, which means the rear tire wear problem will return if I run the car at speed in the low setting. And at the new lower height the ability to adjust the camber any further is gone, even with the adjustable camber links.

So on the highway the standard height setting will be it for me: park and low speeds in low height, highway speeds in standard height (which for me is now the same as the stock low height).

Hmm interesting. I agree with redi -- camber alone won't kill the tires. Toe and camber combined might be the culprit. I'd imagine, as stated above, those who run in Standard height see the least tire wear. Going to low on the freeway is not going to help. Actually, if someone wanted to increase tire wear by changing toe AND perhaps the upper links, at stock height, that'd be an interesting test for tire wear.

But I digress... my plans are to lower the car similarly to you, artsci-- but just a slight bit more. I'll probably just set the front links to the 35mm that Mark said is the minimum... so a 1.38 inch drop roughly. When I lowered my coil spring S85 by 38mm and used the rear upper arms I was able to get camber to -1.2 degrees front and rear all around. Roughly speaking that was 4.15" ground clearance. If this drop is 35mm then I'll be another 0.4 inches lower when in Normal mode. Based on your figures, I should have -1.6 negative camber, roughly. Hmmm... that might be too much! I definitely won't be able to drive in the LOW setting then... but it will look cool when parked, in low. :)
 
Photo Jan 31, 11 35 35 AM.jpg


So not to jack your thread... but I did some interesting math tonight based on Tesla's published ground clearance data, and measurements when I lowered my steel coil car. See photo above of my car, once lowered...

That was done by relocation the c-clip on the shock body, and the end results were interesting. Even though all four corners had a 1.5" delta on the c-clip, the fronts actually took a 55mm average drop, and the rears a 32mm average drop. That is to say the 38mm drop applied to the shocks did not have a 1:1 ratio of drop to the car. I don't recall what my shop measured from but I think it was fender to center of wheel, not to ground. (Their measurements for before/after drop are in the 630-680mm range, and I can definitely find out what they were measuring for me).

Either way, the bottom line is that the spreadsheet they gave me for the coil suspension changes are here:
Photo Feb 06, 10 12 46 PM.jpg


Based on this data again I am using a rough average to just roughly say 55mm F and 32mm R .... and Im going to assume that my old car, built Spring 2014, would have ground clearance that matches TeslaMotors.com current claim of 5.65 inches total (143.5mm). Since my plan would be to drive my car in Normal most of the time, I'm going to then compare to 129.5mm (5.1 inches that artsci had posted above).

What I found interesting then was that Mark @ Airmatic says the current links will lower the front 35mm as a minimum (And artsci you can confirm this? or did you just measure and then modify, without installing?)--- but if that is indeed accurate, my coil spring car had a net clearance of around 88.5mm in the front after the drop. Using that 129.5mm Normal air suspension, and the 38mm expected drop, the net should be 91.5mm after. This means it will be almost identical to the lowering my coils had, when driven in Normal. If that is indeed the case, then my alignment accomplished last time should be pretty similar. see here:

Alignent AFTER 01-31-2015.jpg


It was actually the front camber that was out of spec, but as it matched the rear I was okay with that (and prob helped me for handling purposes). But that was only a 32mm rear drop. This time around I'd probably match the rear to the front, going with a 38mm drop there-- and the car already starts off 14mm lower. My fear is actually going to be the rear camber, which I corrected last time with the EVSE links and have a set this time to do it all again. The only thing I might do then is lower the rear SLIGHTLY less than the front, which isn't ideal probably from an "engineering" standpoint (same lowering at all four corners seems more logical). But it will help two fold, first in adding some rake which might add in hard acceleration minimally, but more so, in keeping the load more forward and in turn potentially alleviating the rear camber issues from going low.

If anyone has any thoughts, inputs, corrections to my info, please let me know. Again, artsci hope my thread-jack here isn't a problem... just seemed like this was a good conversation already going about the links, and since I have the same ones in my hands here, I figured we could perpetuate more discussions on the matter. :p Ciao! - Ari
 
Well I measured a dozen times and used a spreadsheet to calculate everything and ended up with less than perfect results.

Before: (Driver Front, Driver Rear, Passanger Rear, Passanger Front)
127mm
114.3mm
111.12
127mm

After:
107mm
95.25mm (I was shooting for 95mm, at least I nailed it once!)
107mm
101.12mm

I might make a few minor adjustments, or I may leave it as is. 1 turn of the threads on the links turns out to be a fairly large adjustment IMO.

Did some tweaking today (lengthened the front links by 2 turns) and found a more accurate way to measure ground clearance. Ride heights in the 4 corners are now: 98.8, 94.31, 93.21 and 100.16mm. Overall I'm very satisfied. I didn't have to cut my links at all except I did need to remove a nut and replace it with lock washers to get the link a little shorter. My link lengths are: 73 and 72.80mm in the front and 88.49 and 88.51mm in the rear.

Should have just saved myself 1000 words. Here's an after photo:
Model S lowered

Curious - how different are the lengths in these measurements? Based on the OP's link measurements you went about 8mm longer up front? But only about 3mm longer in rear? Is that correct? How level is your car front to rear? Any photos showing both front and rear at same time?
 
Curious - how different are the lengths in these measurements? Based on the OP's link measurements you went about 8mm longer up front? But only about 3mm longer in rear? Is that correct? How level is your car front to rear? Any photos showing both front and rear at same time?

My initial measurements showed the car having 5" (127mm) GC in the front and between 4" (101.6mm) and 4.5" in the rear.

It's now 99.53mm in the front (averaged between both sides) and 93.76 in the rear. So the car is still riding lower in the rear, although much less of a difference than before.

My links measured 72.8mm and 73mm in the front, and 88.49 and 88.51mm in the rear FWIW.
 
So have any of the vendors mentioned in this thread gotten around to actually shortening the too-long (front) links so they'll work without hack sawing them shorter?

And installed a set, lately?

pix and measurements of now-shorter front links pls
 
So have any of the vendors mentioned in this thread gotten around to actually shortening the too-long (front) links so they'll work without hack sawing them shorter?

And installed a set, lately?

pix and measurements of now-shorter front links pls

I didn't have to cut mine, although I replaced the nut in the middle with a lock washer so i could get them a little shorter.
 
Hi Guys

We have now got the new shorter front links manufactured a ready for dispatch.

The new front linkages at there shortest are approximately 1mm longer than the original linkages and will now allow a greater range of lowering without the need of an adapter or the need to modify the adjuster as per the previous longer adjusters.

We will advertise the revised kit on both our website and a large auction site known to you all.

I am not sure how to createa 'Group Purchase' offer but I am hoping the forum administrators can advise meas to the process if the forum members would like me create such an offer.

20150509_101939.jpg


Here is a picture of therevised kit depicting both the front and rear linkages -

20150507_124028.jpg
 
I set the height to very high for that -- works fine, even with mine lowered.

From my experience, you can only travel at the "Very High" setting up to 10mph. And then about 35mph for the "High" setting. Then it reverts to Standard ride height. Here in Cleveland, Ohio we're in the snow belt and regularly see a foot of snow in a 4-6 hour period. Just pointing this out in case someone with air thinks about lowering but isn't aware of these limitations.

That being said, I've lowered my car over an inch and plan to actually go a bit more aggressive in the coming week. I feel confident that with the right snow tires and some common sense I'll be okay. Still, it would be cooler if we had more range of adjustment regardless of speed. I'm sure this is really due more to the camber changes that occur and the otherwise safety of driving the car at high speeds with that odd camber/alignment that occurs when changing the height.
 
Hi Guys

We have now got the new shorter front links manufactured a ready for dispatch.

The new front linkages at there shortest are approximately 1mm longer than the original linkages and will now allow a greater range of lowering without the need of an adapter or the need to modify the adjuster as per the previous longer adjusters.

We will advertise the revised kit on both our website and a large auction site known to you all.

I am not sure how to create a 'Group Purchase' offer but I am hoping the forum administrators can advise meas to the process if the forum members would like me create such an offer.

You just did.

I want a set. Ping me with the offer, when you're ready.

I have an alignment guy prepared to do before-after of the alignment readings for this install.

He's got the best alignment rig in the business.
 
I just lowered my car using these adjustable links from Airmatic. They were the new ones without adaptor etc. Just pops right in.
Stock, the front links were 65 mm and the rears were 85mm. I made the new ones 3 mm longer which should result in a 16,8 mm drop. However after checking the results I noticed the right front and rear were higher than the left side of the car. So I added another 1 mm to the right links both front and rear.
Looks great and improved handling is immediately noticed.