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Lowered Suspension Owners: Are Rear Toe Links Necessary?

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Hey all,

I saw a YouTube video where the installation shop installed H&R springs on a Model 3 LR RWD and also aftermarket (SPL Parts) rear toe links. They noted that the factory toe links do not provide enough adjustments post lowering. Is this correct?

I have a 2019 Model 3 Performance (full pkg) with 15/20mm spacers and intending to lower with H&R springs or MPP coils.
 
  • Disagree
Reactions: bpobill
It definitely provides the flexibility needed for any adjustments. I recently installed MPP Sport Coilovers with both rear toe and camber and didn’t need to do too many adjustments when I had the car alignment done. You may want to add some
Camber for a track day. I Couldn’t tell you if adjustments would have Been possible without them running a stock setup.
 
It definitely provides the flexibility needed for any adjustments. I recently installed MPP Sport Coilovers with both rear toe and camber and didn’t need to do too many adjustments when I had the car alignment done. You may want to add some
Camber for a track day. I Couldn’t tell you if adjustments would have Been possible without them running a stock setup.

Thanks for the feedback @Xerious I'm strictly street use and zero track so no additional camber links needed.
 
Hey all,

I saw a YouTube video where the installation shop installed H&R springs on a Model 3 LR RWD and also aftermarket (SPL Parts) rear toe links. They noted that the factory toe links do not provide enough adjustments post lowering. Is this correct?

I have a 2019 Model 3 Performance (full pkg) with 15/20mm spacers and intending to lower with H&R springs or MPP coils.
My understanding is that with the MPP coilovers, we need the camber arm to allow for even tire wire. However, we do not need the aftermarket toe
 
My understanding is that with the MPP coilovers, we need the camber arm to allow for even tire wire. However, we do not need the aftermarket toe

It also depends on how low you want to set the ride height. When I first set it to the maximum lowest setting it was to see how low it would actually get. It was a one finger gap but after a few days of driving and settling it went to zero gap. I've attached a photo of the zero gap and then one finger gap. I raised it about one finger from fully max low position on the coilovers. You can see the difference in the photos attached.
IMG_1802.jpg
IMG_1824.jpg
 
When people say you "need" the adjustability, they mean that you need it in order to restore stock alignment. Not having stock alignment isn't the end of the world (depending on the severity, obviously) and normally the "price" of having poor alignment is abnormal tire wear.

You really don't need the arms, but you might see uneven tire wear if you lower the car substantially and can't restore alignment close to stock.
 
When people say you "need" the adjustability, they mean that you need it in order to restore stock alignment. Not having stock alignment isn't the end of the world (depending on the severity, obviously) and normally the "price" of having poor alignment is abnormal tire wear.

You really don't need the arms, but you might see uneven tire wear if you lower the car substantially and can't restore alignment close to stock.

Understood. Thx for the input.
 
It also depends on how low you want to set the ride height. When I first set it to the maximum lowest setting it was to see how low it would actually get. It was a one finger gap but after a few days of driving and settling it went to zero gap. I've attached a photo of the zero gap and then one finger gap. I raised it about one finger from fully max low position on the coilovers. You can see the difference in the photos attached.
View attachment 483751 View attachment 483752

What's your SV104 offset and width and tire setup?
 
When people say you "need" the adjustability, they mean that you need it in order to restore stock alignment. Not having stock alignment isn't the end of the world (depending on the severity, obviously) and normally the "price" of having poor alignment is abnormal tire wear.

You really don't need the arms, but you might see uneven tire wear if you lower the car substantially and can't restore alignment close to stock.
Would you say the camber is much more of a necessity than the toe?
 
^absolutely, camber that's off, you can still use many many miles (known some folks with over -2.5 front cambers, slammed cars as daily driver, tires still last thousands of miles), toe's that's off, it'll eat up the tires unevenly right away
 
^absolutely, camber that's off, you can still use many many miles (known some folks with over -2.5 front cambers, slammed cars as daily driver, tires still last thousands of miles), toe's that's off, it'll eat up the tires unevenly right away
but the stock toe for the model 3 does not really need to be upgraded apparently, its the camber that does
 
It also depends on how low you want to set the ride height. When I first set it to the maximum lowest setting it was to see how low it would actually get. It was a one finger gap but after a few days of driving and settling it went to zero gap. I've attached a photo of the zero gap and then one finger gap. I raised it about one finger from fully max low position on the coilovers. You can see the difference in the photos attached.
View attachment 483751 View attachment 483752

@Xerious,

Do you have a front quartering shot?

Ski