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lowering links, but cheap?

Zishan

Member
Jan 28, 2019
238
78
Houston, TX
I was wondering the same....saw them for as low as $80 bucks before.

Honestly, I read these bare no load, so not a real danger using them. I even read people 3D print lowering links?
 

BrianS85

Member
Dec 1, 2018
124
57
San Diego, CA
The only thing with the adjustables is that they need to be the EXACT same length relative to the oem pieces (+2mm, 4mm, or whatever).
I 3D printed mine in February and they’ve been fine. All they do is move a little arm on a sensor.
 

Zishan

Member
Jan 28, 2019
238
78
Houston, TX
I was wondering the same....saw them for as low as $80 bucks before.

Honestly, I read these bare no load, so not a real danger using them. I even read people 3D print lowering links?

Oops, freudian slip.....bear, not "bare" :D

The only thing with the adjustables is that they need to be the EXACT same length relative to the oem pieces (+2mm, 4mm, or whatever).
I 3D printed mine in February and they’ve been fine. All they do is move a little arm on a sensor.

Can you confirm, there's no weight or load applied to these? I need to get into 3d printing! Looks like fun...
 

krsgio

Member
Nov 8, 2018
411
397
Colorado
I had a friend 3d print me some links but opted to get the adjustable ones for convenience of being able to adjust them rather than hassling him to print me more to go lower or whatever. One of the 3d printed links when I went to install it snapped on the ball so had to redo another set. I'm sure it was more a fluke than anything as I never had any issues with the remainder of the links I used but I was worried about driving in the winter and stuff and them becoming brittle so another check mark in my book for the solid adjustable ones.
 

BrianS85

Member
Dec 1, 2018
124
57
San Diego, CA
The cold weather thing is a good point. We essentially don’t have winter where I live so it wasn’t a concern. However, the factory ball cups are also plastic. The snapped ball cup sounds like he might have used the wrong material for printing. I have a formlabs printer and used a resin that has some give specifically for that reason. ABS seemed too brittle to me.

I would say if you have a printer then print some, if not then just buy those $80 links.
 

sorka

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2015
8,271
6,230
Merced, CA
I 3d printed mine from PETG for about 10 cents each.

Screen Shot 2019-10-28 at 3.56.06 PM.png
 
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Russell

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Sep 25, 2012
936
720
Silicon Valley
Last edited:

isracing

Member
Aug 2, 2019
159
71
Bay Area
I have a buddy print out some adjustment and arms for me and both sizes from the details posted on this website and the side that has the files. He did find however that they were about 1MM shorter than a advertised maybe because of the material or the process he used but I use the shorter one at my car looks perfect on low. When I change my tires I’m going to swap them out for the longer ones so I can be low on standard, and slammed on low.
 

BurntBrownie67

New Member
Oct 30, 2019
1
1
chicago
Found this on ebay
TESLA MODEL S P85 P85D FULLY ADJUSTABLE LOWERING LINKS FREE SHIPPING | eBay

should I trust such a low priced item and unknown seller?
Or anyone had an experience using them? I do like UP links, but can't pay $500 for now

If i may interject I have had lots of success buying things from 3rd world countries and sketchy sellers. In fact once I had my identity stolen, but the guy ended up increasing my credit score! win/win!?

I was wondering the same....saw them for as low as $80 bucks before.

Honestly, I read these bare no load, so not a real danger using them. I even read people 3D print lowering links?

I assure you there is a load. The small spring, located inside the sensor, presses with the full force of 0.0564924 newton meters! Yes i measured it :)
 
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Tokyodrifter33

New Member
Oct 30, 2019
1
1
Chicago
I had a friend 3d print me some links but opted to get the adjustable ones for convenience of being able to adjust them rather than hassling him to print me more to go lower or whatever. One of the 3d printed links when I went to install it snapped on the ball so had to redo another set. I'm sure it was more a fluke than anything as I never had any issues with the remainder of the links I used but I was worried about driving in the winter and stuff and them becoming brittle so another check mark in my book for the solid adjustable ones.
Hello, If I may respond, I would just like to add that I was able to use my sons Tinker Toys. Yes, I know what you are thinking... but it worked. I had to use the green colored (rod) connectors. It matched up closely to ball alignment. Remarkably, it held together just fine due to the fact that this particular setup could handle over 0.0564924 Newton Meters from the force of the sensor spring.
 
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sorka

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2015
8,271
6,230
Merced, CA
I have a buddy print out some adjustment and arms for me and both sizes from the details posted on this website and the side that has the files. He did find however that they were about 1MM shorter than a advertised maybe because of the material or the process he used but I use the shorter one at my car looks perfect on low. When I change my tires I’m going to swap them out for the longer ones so I can be low on standard, and slammed on low.

I'm going to surmise that your buddy made several mistakes because otherwise those printed links would never break and would last pretty much forever.

1) He probably didn't print at 100% fill which is absolutely required for a critical component. No the links aren't really structural as they really just relay a mechanical signal with no load but they are still critical to safety and need to be solid and strong.

2) He probably use PLA instead of PETG or Polycarbonate. PLA is great for display objects but not so much for a mechanically functioning object.

3) The release joints at the ball where probably still fused with the brim plate. If here was no brim, then the part would have most certainly warped badly at 100% fill.
 

cmarshack

Member
Oct 25, 2015
380
232
San Clemente, CA
was it hard or easy to adjust, meaning was it simple to match all 4 corners?

I just made sure the front and rear were the same length. As I made adjustments to ride height, I made the same number of turns to each ride height rod.

Just a reminder, if you lower your car you'll need to fix your camber and the rear camber isn't adjustable from the factory.

Yes, you will want to have an alignment once this is installed. I added the camber bushings from this vendor (no affiliation, just great product and amazing customer service!):

Adjustable Rear Camber Bushings for Tesla Model S and Model X
 

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