pandam3
Member
NO, PROFESSIONAL SHOPS ARE NOT grinding down the holes. It is not necessary. Why would you create a permanent tamper of the car? That is definitely one way to void your suspension warranty since you are permanently creating signs of tampering.
For you DIY’ers out there, please do yourselves a favor and DO NOT Grind down the holes. You also DO NOT need a thin walled socket.
All you need to do is remove the two 15mm bolts and 2 13mm bolts and remove the entire strut assembly along with the top control arm (again as a complete assembly).
It doesn’t take any additional time or effort for this. While I applaud the diy efforts, please research beforehand.
You wouldn’t happen to have the torque specs for everything that needs to be removed would you? So far I’ve been backing off nuts and bolts using a torque wrench and slowly changing the settings until it stops clicking. So far it seems the same as the ModelS torque specs that is listed elsewhere on the forum.
I started taking the front suspension apart last night after work (only got as far as removing the frunk, lifting the front of the car, loosening the wheel nuts, and figuring how the access the top of the struts... my ADHD makes time fly as I was pondering driving to a Costco that sells a quickjack vs just doing one end at a time with jack stands)). I used a 13mm grinded down socket that I received with no luck. It gets into the holes for the strut mounts. However the nuts are offset just enough that it won’t grab 2 out of 3 of the nuts.
So tonight after work I plan to just loosen the 4 bolts that secures the strut assembly and see if that gives enough play to access the nuts at the strut mount.
If that still doesn’t work I’ll be removing the whole strut assembly... There are instructions on the Unplugged website that can be printed out which outlines the method.