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Lowering the Model 3

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NO, PROFESSIONAL SHOPS ARE NOT grinding down the holes. It is not necessary. Why would you create a permanent tamper of the car? That is definitely one way to void your suspension warranty since you are permanently creating signs of tampering.

For you DIY’ers out there, please do yourselves a favor and DO NOT Grind down the holes. You also DO NOT need a thin walled socket.

All you need to do is remove the two 15mm bolts and 2 13mm bolts and remove the entire strut assembly along with the top control arm (again as a complete assembly).

It doesn’t take any additional time or effort for this. While I applaud the diy efforts, please research beforehand.

You wouldn’t happen to have the torque specs for everything that needs to be removed would you? So far I’ve been backing off nuts and bolts using a torque wrench and slowly changing the settings until it stops clicking. So far it seems the same as the ModelS torque specs that is listed elsewhere on the forum.

I started taking the front suspension apart last night after work (only got as far as removing the frunk, lifting the front of the car, loosening the wheel nuts, and figuring how the access the top of the struts... my ADHD makes time fly as I was pondering driving to a Costco that sells a quickjack vs just doing one end at a time with jack stands)). I used a 13mm grinded down socket that I received with no luck. It gets into the holes for the strut mounts. However the nuts are offset just enough that it won’t grab 2 out of 3 of the nuts.

So tonight after work I plan to just loosen the 4 bolts that secures the strut assembly and see if that gives enough play to access the nuts at the strut mount.

If that still doesn’t work I’ll be removing the whole strut assembly... There are instructions on the Unplugged website that can be printed out which outlines the method.
 
Ok as an update for all you diy people.

I ended up combining criket88’s/ unplugged instructions for disassembling the front suspension with Mountain Pass’s advice regarding using a grinded 13mm socket as a time saver.

At first the grinded 13mm socket wouldn’t grab the nuts because they weren’t all centered on the access holes.

So I loosened the 4 bolts that crickett88 mentioned enough just to allow enough play to move the assembly around until the nuts where centered on the access holes...

So struts came out and no need to completely remove the strut assembly. Just loosen it then don’t forget to re tighten when reassembling.
 
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I'm looking to purchase the Tsportline Lowering Springs. There's a special right now with Tsportline - spend $700 and get $150 off. Anyone in the Socal/LA area want to join me on this deal? We can meet at Tsportline to pick up the springs together. We can split the discount. =)
 
Consider that I have the P3D+ which is supposedly already lowered. So maybe I need to be asking for 1.5".

It appears that most manufacturers of the springs are taking the already lowered height of the P3D+ into consideration.

How do I keep the exact same ride and feel but get the car 1" lower?

There aren't a whole lot of available options at the moment for us P3D+ owners. Most everything is in the prototype/pre-production phase.

Unplugged Performance will have coilovers, and springs.

Mountain Pass Performance will have 2 coilover options.

Eibach will have a spring option.

Tsportline will have a spring option.

Springs are all looking to be in the < $400 range, whereas the coilovers are going to be $1800+. The advantage of the springs is the cost. The advantage of the coilovers is that you can dial in the exact height that you want, and in some cases, adjust both the rebound and compression.
 
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Do the coilovers give you the same feel as stock? Or are they a lot more stiff/rough?

It varies, there are many combinations of spring rates and damper curves that can result in a softer or firmer ride than your stock Model 3. Generally cheap coilovers have a rough ride due to cost cutting on components and lack of R&D. They often give people the wrong impression about coilovers in general.