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LR with Boost vs. P - “Feel” Question

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You can sell the 20s and downgrade for the 18s or something similar with better aftermarket and you still get the better brakes probably breaking even. Its a significantly worse deal monetarily with the Stealth at the same price is my point.

Your upgrades/downgrades are still the opposite of mine, and entirely subjective. Not only would I not consider anything but 18's, if I did, I'd love to upgrade to some 17's, maybe 16# or so, and run those instead of the 18's. As far as I'm concerned, any time you have less unsprung weight it's an upgrade. Could be my racing background in play here, plus I grew very tired of the rubber-band tire look and ride years ago.

Regarding pricing, I'm in agreement there pretty much, as I think 3 of 4 people will take the P+ over the P- at the same price, and it will be interesting to see how they sell. There is/was such pent-up demand for the P- but probably a big part of that was that they had it priced way too low when they introduced the model.
 
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While I appreciate the better ride of the 18" wheels, the price was the biggest reason to get a stealth. At only $2K more than the LR AWD, it was an easy upgrade for potential buyers. The new pricing makes it the exact opposite IMO, and they will probably sit for a while.

exactly. Can we have a reasonable middle ground here between the p- and the awd+ ?

I would totally pay 50k for a p- but def not the full price of a p+
 
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Your upgrades/downgrades are still the opposite of mine, and entirely subjective. Not only would I not consider anything but 18's, if I did, I'd love to upgrade to some 17's, maybe 16# or so, and run those instead of the 18's. As far as I'm concerned, any time you have less unsprung weight it's an upgrade. Could be my racing background in play here, plus I grew very tired of the rubber-band tire look and ride years ago.

Regarding pricing, I'm in agreement there pretty much, as I think 3 of 4 people will take the P+ over the P- at the same price, and it will be interesting to see how they sell. There is/was such pent-up demand for the P- but probably a big part of that was that they had it priced way too low when they introduced the model.

I agree that everyone has different requirements on what they want in the car. I'm just saying the P+ right now is a better deal given the more equipment they give you at the same price as the P-. My point is that if you get the P+, you can sell the 20in wheel and get what you want aftermarket and net / net, you get the better brakes and the spoiler for free. Its weird that they even offer the P- at the same price. At least price it a little lower...
 
If you get Boost, you won't wonder *as much*. That's what I did, along with lighter aftermarket wheels and have no regrets.

When one talks about acceleration being on another level, I think it's very subjective. I've driven a P90D back in the day that did 0-60 in 2.8 on Insane Mode and I thought that was brutal. I can only imagine the P100D or upcoming Plaid S will be like.
 
If you get Boost, you won't wonder *as much*. That's what I did, along with lighter aftermarket wheels and have no regrets.

When one talks about acceleration being on another level, I think it's very subjective. I've driven a P90D back in the day that did 0-60 in 2.8 on Insane Mode and I thought that was brutal. I can only imagine the P100D or upcoming Plaid S will be like.

Might have to start G force exercises while driving these cars
 
I debated between the LR AWD and the P but decided against the P because we use this car for long trips and commuting (despite having another car) and wanted more comfort. It accelerates fast af but I constantly wonder what I'm missing out on. However, if they had the P- available, I would've gotten that
You could have gotten the 3P and if you felt it was too harsh you just could ahve sold OEM wheels and bought light 19" or even 18" with same tires. Then you would get better range, better performance, better braking and less noise.

So I am on my 3P with KW V3 coilovers now, 1.5" drop, stock rebound and compression settings.
Then I put on lighter 19" wheels, so it looks better, uses less energy and its more comfortable. On top of that, it performs better.

I sold my used 20" wheelset for about 2000 dollars here in Norway (I sold it in Norwegian Kroner of course).
So for the same price you can get some OK wheels or if you add 500 dollar you can get much lighter wheels.

I never heard my girlfriend complain abouot comfort though, we also drove the 3P last summer to germany (took boat from west coast of Norway to Denmark). Then we were on a 2 week vacation with it in DK and DE, so it was a good drive. But actually the roads here in Norway are the worst comfort wise, terrible quality of tarmac and we also have alot of pot holes, large speed bumps, a lot of old and narrow/windy roads. Of course this means many of our roads are almost like rally courses with tight curves and hilly muountains.

So it is of course engaging to drive many roads here and Tesla is very good at this sort of roads as it may mean that top speed isnt that high, but you get to use the maximum power band and brakes/sharp handling a lot.
 
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I look at it like this now - is the extra .5sec 0-60 plus P hardware and track mode worth the extra $6k? To me, no. I’d rather get a nice set of 19” wheels with summer tires and MPP coil overs and call it a day (I don’t expect to ever take the car to a track). If money isn’t a factor and you want the best out of the box option, then P is the way to go.

I know Dragtimes has a video, but I’d love to see some 30-70 or 30-100 runs to compare another set of Boost vs P metrics. I think the difference will be smaller than one thinks.
 
The p has other performance items as well from long range. I like my P and I've always had fast cars but the P is at the edge of how far acceleration needs to be. I don't use it often because it gives me head rush but it is fun
 
The p has other performance items as well from long range. I like my P and I've always had fast cars but the P is at the edge of how far acceleration needs to be. I don't use it often because it gives me head rush but it is fun
Right, but how many of them are used and how often? If you want to track the car, the P is the way to go. If you want the balance of performance/range/price, the LR is the better option. It also depends on when you purchased the car. When I bought in 2018, the P was $11k more than the LR AWD option.
 
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The p has other performance items as well from long range.

The P3D- does not.

Physically identical to earlier LR AWD cars, just a software difference.

(physically identical to newer LR AWD cars too other than the rear DU)

And even on the P3D+ the differences aren't significant in normal street driving.... the brakes make no difference at all to stopping distance, the spoiler is cosmetic in street use (as is the higher top speed and sport pedals)... and the suspension drop is a whole 0.39 inches.
 
No one is buying a non plus. There are differences. You can feel free to justify why you shouldn't buy it but there are differences

The P3D- does not.

Physically identical to earlier LR AWD cars, just a software difference.

(physically identical to newer LR AWD cars too other than the rear DU)

And even on the P3D+ the differences aren't significant in normal street driving.... the brakes make no difference at all to stopping distance, the spoiler is cosmetic in street use (as is the higher top speed and sport pedals)... and the suspension drop is a whole 0.39 inches.
 
No one is buying a non plus.

You think that because of how rare the P- has been, up until recently. They've been snatched up VERY quickly, but a lot of that has to do with the initial pricing of the -, but it's fixed now.

There are many, many threads of people asking "should I get the LR AWD plus boost or Performance?", which is basically saying "I want the practicality of the 18's and no boy-racer look but the speed of the P+". The stealth/P- strikes that balance that so many are looking for, and it's probably why they are being produced again - because of demand.
 
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