Lug nut socket size

[beeeerock]

Doesn't matter how much the extension twists the torque is the same. Is no different than how much the springs in your suspension are compressed, the spring compression does not lessen or increase the load carried by the wheels.

You know, I've seen the comment about extensions many times, so I have to assume it's based on some sort of reality. The off-axis change to lever length was always my assumption. But I wonder if there is a dynamic effect in here somewhere, relating to how the extension 'winds up' and then releases when the bolt or nut finally breaks through static friction to kinetic friction. Maybe there is a bit of 'impact wrench' effect in this?

It might mean slightly more torque applied, but I can't see it being anywhere near enough to be a concern. Up until a few years ago, my rules for lug nuts were 'tighten a little at a time, across the star', 'tighten enough that they won't fall off' and 'leave them loose enough that the tire iron in the trunk will be enough to remove them!'. The last one was learned the hard way in the bush, after a tire shop torqued those babies on so tight that I rounded out my lug nut wrench trying to change a flat... not a great day, that one!!! :tongue:

 

[N4HHE]

You can wrongly apply side loads with an extension or without. The presence of an extension does not ensure error.

Beam-type torque wrenches have a pivot in the handle that one is to balance on the pivot when taking a reading so as not to induce an error torque in the beam.

 

[N4HHE]

13/16" is also a good fit.

I have to retract this statement. Way back when I first rotated my wheels the 13/16" deep impact socket from Harbor Freight worked great. Wheels have been rotated a few times since by the dealer. And tonight that same 13/16" socket would not push over my 2013 vintage capped lug nuts. A 21mm 12 point was too loose and cocked on the lug nut requiring a bit of hammering to get it out of the socket. After taking 2 lug nuts off I put them back on using a 7/8" 6 point socket which was very loose, but that I could get off the nut after torquing.

So I'm here looking tonight because 13/16" is too tight and 21mm is too loose. Perhaps 21mm 6 point will suffice.

 

[HankLloydRight]

The caps deform when over torqued or an impact gun is used. I had a tire place ruin all 20 lug nuts, which they paid to replace at $3 each. If your lug nuts are now deformed, I strongly suggest getting new ones, and then ONLY ever use the 21mm 6 point socket in them. Anything else will eventually deform them.

Tesla now sells a new style nut that's not capped, but last time I checked they didn't have the grey covers to match the turbine rims, only chrome.

 

[N4HHE]

@mspohr
Although I'm sure it's not critical, but FYI extensions give you inaccurate torque wrench readings.

Absolutely not. In fact a 6” or longer extension will result in a more accurate torque.

If you one-hand the torque wrench then you are placing a side load on the item under test. This is wrong. With a 6” extension one has to held the head of the torque wrench and the handle resulting in a pure twisting torque on the lug nut. No side load. No load at odd angle which might cause the socket to come off the nut.

When dealing with hex socket head bolts I always use at least 3” extension so as to be sure I apply nothing but twisting torque, no side loads. Is terribly easy to flip the hex driver out of the bolt head, stripping it, if a side load is applied.