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Lug Stud Replacements
- Thread starter Maui Daryl
- Start date
Beautiful, thx! How much extra length did those provide? Jokes aside . Any issues with them sticking out too far from the wheel on the other side (depending on wheel/spacer used)?
If you have performance model - you can't really use them on a rear hub - you would need to cut hats significantly or they will demolish hub seal at the back. And for me they stick way too much - I can't use long closed nuts at all. Also, I feel that they are softer metal than stock and generally not very good quality. Anyway, I had to put stock ones back which is not a good idea - studs should never be reused.
Firehuntah
Member
I'm using the same Dorman 610-490 wheel studs that @beastmode13 is using. Using them on an SR+ though so might be different to Performance. But I have no issues with them being too long. I'm assuming you want them to use spacers so you really need that extra length. If they're too long you can always cut to the size you want. But it's not really necessary, just get the right size lug nuts. For me, I use 8 mm spacers on the front and using Gorilla The System acorn lug nuts, they still fit perfectly with maybe 2-3 mm spare. They really don't stick out all that much. But also depends on the design of the wheels you use really. On some wheels it'll look like they stick out a lot while on others it won't.
I believe these Dorman studs are pretty much the only ones available right now that work perfectly. I had no luck finding others that had the same specs.
But if it's true that the Performance hubs need cut hats like @Mash is saying then do be careful with that. I guess it's not too difficult to cut out a small portion of the hat on all of them, it's just a bit more work.
As for the quality, I disagree. I actually think they're pretty good quality. Not as good quality as the ARP studs that are very popular but in my opinion they're definitely better quality than the stock studs. They're not softer either, same grade I believe.Stock performance studs at the rear have a cut on the stud head, so it won't touch hub assembly seal. I don't have a photo unfortunately. And im really impressed by @Firehuntah home toolbox where cutting length and hats on 20 studs is not a big deal. I can't imagine how many diamond cutters and hours that would take me. Oh and I would need a polisher as well to chamfer edges.
It's not ARP level and not stock level - thread consistency is quite low. I won't debate hardness - I don't have hardness meter it's just I see way more thread damage on Dorman than on stock ones.
beastmode13
Member
All Model 3 use the same studs. On some 3s, Tesla use a full round brake dust shield vs. 3/4 round dust shield. With the full round version, to remove the studs you might need to remove the hub to do so.
beastmode13
Member
Firehuntah
Member
Why thank you.
Thing is, I didn't have to do any of this as I don't have a Performance. So yes, it might not be as easy as I'm making it seem, sure. But diamond cutters, really? I don't believe that is necessary. I always see people cutting them with regular cutting blades without problems. But I guess you're right with the chamfer edge, that might be a bit more work to get done nicely. I'm just saying, it's not impossible, just takes more time. Not much choice anyway, is there? Seeing as you went back to stock studs as well. There's just nothing else available yet for our Teslas besides those Dorman studs. I asked ARP a while ago and they weren't planning on making any for Teslas.I can't judge what your stock studs look like, but on mine the thread was definitely a lot worse than on the Dorman studs. Always had issues getting lug nuts on there. That is no longer a problem since I switched to the Dorman studs. Thread isn't perfect, that much is true. But you're also not paying the price of ARP studs for it so it is to be expected.
As for installing the studs, I suggest you always take off the hub. More work, but at least you won't risk damaging the wheel bearings by smacking those stock studs out with a big hammer.
I know most people use that method but I just don't think it's a good idea.Yeah, people with tools think everything is easy. Who doesn't have hub assembly removal tool on hand? I used rubber mallet to push them out, it wasn't something dangerous for the wheel bearing.Why thank you.
I can't judge what your stock studs look like, but on mine the thread was definitely a lot worse than on the Dorman studs. Always had issues getting lug nuts on there. That is no longer a problem since I switched to the Dorman studs. Thread isn't perfect, that much is true. But you're also not paying the price of ARP studs for it so it is to be expected.
As for installing the studs, I suggest you always take off the hub. More work, but at least you won't risk damaging the wheel bearings by smacking those stock studs out with a big hammer.
I should have mentioned that I’m running MPP brake rotors on my P3D+ so removed front and rear dust shields during install. Incidentally, mine were full round so I used tin snips to cut through them and pull them out. Hopefully this might make room for the studs per @Mash...
What I was referring has nothing to do with dust shields. Check your rear stock studs - do they have round head or one side of head is cut. If it's cut - you can't use round head studs there. And you would need same head as ARP or picture I've posted above.
Really appreciate everyone’s input! I’ll report back here once everything is installed. @Firehuntah, do you have a pic of how the lugs look on your wheels after the longer studs were installed? Or basically, it looks normal? I’m running the Tesla Zero-G wheels and suspect the plastic lug covers will have to stay off, which is not a bad thing anyways...
Dang, missed that in your classic thread! Very helpful... Are you running any spacers and what are your wheel specs (offset, width, etc)?
beastmode13
Member
Wheels. 19x9+35mm Street, 19x9.5+35mm. I’ve 5mm spacer in the rear for looks.
Firehuntah
Member
You're saying this like I have a full professional garage with all tools needed. Trust me, I don't have much. I don't even have any air tools.
And lets be honest here, you need tools if you're going to attempt to replace your wheel studs. Sure, you can hammer them out. But how are you going to install the new ones? Right, you need tools.
Btw, you don't need a special hub removal tool to remove the hubs. Any sort of puller will work just fine, can usually get them for a few bucks. No special expensive tool required.
I really don't mind what methods people use, that's up to them. I just suggest what the best method is, and that is removing the hubs. As for the wheel bearings, it's not that you're going to destroy them right away. But you might be shortening their life by using a hammer.
Well, with the Gorilla The System lug nuts I use now, everything looks pretty normal to me. If I ever were to run without spacers though, I'm going to need very long lug nuts.
Here are some photos.
With these wheels it's really not bad. If you have a more flat design around the lug holes though it might be a bit more noticeable that they stick out.
I also have an install video if you'd like to see.
I also have tools. Special tools are better. I'm just tired of having so many tools already.You're saying this like I have a full professional garage with all tools needed. Trust me, I don't have much. I don't even have any air tools.
And lets be honest here, you need tools if you're going to attempt to replace your wheel studs. Sure, you can hammer them out. But how are you going to install the new ones? Right, you need tools.
Btw, you don't need a special hub removal tool to remove the hubs. Any sort of puller will work just fine, can usually get them for a few bucks. No special expensive tool required.
I really don't mind what methods people use, that's up to them. I just suggest what the best method is, and that is removing the hubs. As for the wheel bearings, it's not that you're going to destroy them right away. But you might be shortening their life by using a hammer.
Well, with the Gorilla The System lug nuts I use now, everything looks pretty normal to me. If I ever were to run without spacers though, I'm going to need very long lug nuts.
With these wheels it's really not bad. If you have a more flat design around the lug holes though it might be a bit more noticeable that they stick out.
I also have an install video if you'd like to see.
