Firehuntah
Member
I also have tools. Special tools are better. I'm just tired of having so many tools already.
You can never have enough tools, just need to get a bigger garage to store all of them!
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I also have tools. Special tools are better. I'm just tired of having so many tools already.
I don't even have a garage. I have to go to my office underground parking, bring quickjack by elevator from the office and toolbox that takes whole trunk to do stuff. It's 2 hours pack-unpack. Now I need to bring 12T press to the office for control arms bushings...You can never have enough tools, just need to get a bigger garage to store all of them!
What I was referring has nothing to do with dust shields. Check your rear stock studs - do they have round head or one side of head is cut. If it's cut - you can't use round head studs there. And you would need same head as ARP or picture I've posted above.
Just checked my rear hub: The stock studs on my 2019 Performance have round heads, not cut. They seat very close to the hub seals but not touching them.
View attachment 562429
So looks like I’ll have to do this mod myself now, lol. I don’t plan on taking the hub off (ie will carefully use hammer method) — I’m assuming there’s enough space/angle/hub position to take the studs out from behind?
Thanks, brother -- you've been super helpful. All of this just to get some spacers in, lol. @beastmode13 did include a link to his build thread above for that video. The stud installer tool -- is that the cylinder looking black thing? If so, I've ordered it from Amazon.
You know you can just use 2 lug nuts on a stud to pull the stud through.No worries, here at TMC we all like to help eachother out! Ah yeah, I guess you can find it there in his build thread.
As for the tool, yeah it's a cylinder looking thing. A lug nut will fit into it and that'll actually pull the stud into the hub as you tighten it. Works best with an impact gun but can probably use a big wrench or breaker bar as well if you have someone hold the brake pedal. Just takes more time and need to use some muscle.
It will get stuck and you will damage surface and nut.You know you can just use 2 lug nuts on a stud to pull the stud through.
You know you can just use 2 lug nuts on a stud to pull the stud through.
Ahh, the best laid plans...
All set up to do the stud replacement just now, following all references above. Knocked the stock stud out with a ball peen hammer no problem.
New problem: even without the dust shields (which were removed previously), the shape of the knuckle behind the hub just doesn’t allow me to slide in the longer Dorman stud. I tried rotating the hub to find any better angle at the hole, but nothing worked.
View attachment 563513
Seems like the shape of the knuckle near the brake caliper is slimmer on non-PUP models vs my PUP car, and this allows room to slide in the longer stud.
@beastmode13 ‘s ?non-PUP:
View attachment 563517
And the knuckle brake bracket on the PUP:
View attachment 563518
Now this may also explain @Mash observation that Performance studs heads need to be cut (although my stock one’s are not) — could that small cut provide the angle necessary for a stud to slide in without taking out the hub?
So now I need to decide if I want to have the big balls of @Firehuntah and at least loosen up the hub to give room to slip the new studs in...sigh. Anyway, I hope this helps those with the Performance brakes who want to do this mod.
Apparently, there are different rear hubs on the market despite no trace of that in EPC@katie3
I’ve PD3+. The issue you have with the photos is. Mine phone is the front, while yours is the rear. Where is the face palm emoji? Besides, all model 3 has the exactly the same hub carrier.
For the rear. As I recalled there is only two position in which you can get the Dorman studs in. You would need to get the stud positioned into one of the cavities in the hub carrier.
There is no reason to cut the studs or loosen the hub to make it fit.
Do you play Tetris?
@katie3
I’ve PD3+. The issue you have with the photos is. Mine phone is the front, while yours is the rear. Where is the face palm emoji? Besides, all model 3 has the exactly the same hub carrier.
For the rear. As I recalled there is only two position in which you can get the Dorman studs in. You would need to get the stud positioned into one of the cavities in the hub carrier.
There is no reason to cut the studs or loosen the hub to make it fit.
Do you play Tetris?
Haha, this is definitely turning into a game of Tetris combined with how many times can I take my wheel +/- rotors off!
I literally rotated the hub 360 deg and could not get the right angle to get the new stud in. On the other hand, I know you did it successfully... Can you remember which position from these pics below? There’s a cavity at 2:00 that looks like it might work but, again, the hub carrier body just doesn’t allow a straight shot through. I may just be completely inept, though, lol.
Only other explanation is something is different in the parts as per @Mash comments.
I spent like 4 hours with a few guys trying exactly that. I think your casting was different.The only thing I remember is that there isn't a spot where the stud could go in straight. It has to start at an angle then you rotate the hub a little while maneuvering the stud as well. I think the cavity in post #50 might be it, or perhaps it's somewhere else.
Done (one wheel)! Tried one more time to slip the longer studs in without loosening the hub, but nothing worked so had to get at those bolts in the rear of the hub per @Firehuntah’s video. For anyone trying this, it really helps to have varying depth sockets and extensions to sneak between the suspension parts to get at those hub bolts. I was able to push the hub out just a bit without having to use the hub puller tool in the video — then the longer studs finally just slipped in.
It also helps to not do this in a 90 degree garage (yes that’s my sweat on the floor):
View attachment 564300
Other rear wheel and maybe fronts tomorrow, then will get a finished product posted. Thx everyone again for your help!
Good Job. Is that epoxy coated floor?Done (one wheel)! Tried one more time to slip the longer studs in without loosening the hub, but nothing worked so had to get at those bolts in the rear of the hub per @Firehuntah’s video. For anyone trying this, it really helps to have varying depth sockets and extensions to sneak between the suspension parts to get at those hub bolts. I was able to push the hub out just a bit without having to use the hub puller tool in the video — then the longer studs finally just slipped in.
It also helps to not do this in a 90 degree garage (yes that’s my sweat on the floor):
View attachment 564300
Other rear wheel and maybe fronts tomorrow, then will get a finished product posted. Thx everyone again for your help!