Just PM me to order. I don't have a website or anything, on my list of to do's if they get popular. For now I'm handling it manually.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Just PM me to order. I don't have a website or anything, on my list of to do's if they get popular. For now I'm handling it manually.
I don’t know the exact alloy and temper of the oem lugs so I can’t give you exact numbers. These are made from grade 5 Ti which is stronger than most steels.
Last edited:
Gvardaman
Member
Titanium is is far stronger, pound-for-pound. So High grade stainless steel would be stronger, but weigh about twice as much.
The specifics depend on whether the Titanium is an alloy or pure metal, and the metal you are comparing it with.
The weight savings is the big benefit here since any weight saved from the wheels/tires/brake rotors/ axles, et. al. Is both rotating mass and unsprung weight. This gives exponential gains in acceleration and handling (I think a pound saved in unsprung weight is equal to three pounds of sprung weight...)
I thought I had wheel studs from a BMW that might be the right size, but I may have included them in the sale of a car several years ago.
The specifics depend on whether the Titanium is an alloy or pure metal, and the metal you are comparing it with.
The weight savings is the big benefit here since any weight saved from the wheels/tires/brake rotors/ axles, et. al. Is both rotating mass and unsprung weight. This gives exponential gains in acceleration and handling (I think a pound saved in unsprung weight is equal to three pounds of sprung weight...)
I thought I had wheel studs from a BMW that might be the right size, but I may have included them in the sale of a car several years ago.
True Ti has a greater strength/weight but whenever comparing materials grades and alloys have to be compared to compare strengths as they can be all over the place.
I'll add another vote for closed-end nuts, if you ever think of expanding your offerings 
Some other feedback:
After having tried some 10 different lugs, I think anything with a 19mm hex looks too small on stock bore. I realize you originally made these for an aftermarket bore, but with Signature (for example) doing stock-lug-compatible wheels you might have a bunch of potential customers who don't want tiny nuts (). I would be happy to see a 21mm hex nut like the SL to keep the beefy and flush stock look.
I think 40mm is way too long for anything but the stock wheels. I realize it's trendy for some cars but I'm not sure Tesla owners fit the Japanese tuner crowd I'm curious what your intended application is for those? I tried some 40mm lugs on my signature wheels and they stuck out past the wheel pretty far. But I realize this is just personal preference.
What's your motivation for the wheel studs? Are they Ti? If so, how does it compare in terms of galling, needing to use anti-seize, etc vs steel if you have Ti on Ti? I'm really on the fence about using Ti lugs, seems like it has headaches on a part where I don't want any headaches...
Some other feedback:
After having tried some 10 different lugs, I think anything with a 19mm hex looks too small on stock bore. I realize you originally made these for an aftermarket bore, but with Signature (for example) doing stock-lug-compatible wheels you might have a bunch of potential customers who don't want tiny nuts (
). I would be happy to see a 21mm hex nut like the SL to keep the beefy and flush stock look.I think 40mm is way too long for anything but the stock wheels. I realize it's trendy for some cars but I'm not sure Tesla owners fit the Japanese tuner crowd
I'm curious what your intended application is for those? I tried some 40mm lugs on my signature wheels and they stuck out past the wheel pretty far. But I realize this is just personal preference.What's your motivation for the wheel studs? Are they Ti? If so, how does it compare in terms of galling, needing to use anti-seize, etc vs steel if you have Ti on Ti? I'm really on the fence about using Ti lugs, seems like it has headaches on a part where I don't want any headaches...
Model s studs are different (longer) so closed ended short lugs won’t work there. If you are looking for some custom let me know I’ve done a couple sets.
webbah
Active Member
I would assume the custom studs would be corrosion resistant? I wish I knew about this thread sooner. I replaced my OEM studs with Dorman's which are much better than OEM, but still steel. I'd be interested to learn more though! I am constantly swapping wheels depending on summer/winter, track, etc. And with all the salt on the roads here in winter I always look for corrosion resistant parts when I need to replace.
Yes Ti is corrosion resistant like stainless steel. For steel they have to rely on coatings but for a threaded surface the coatings will inevitably get scratched and rubbed off leading to rusting.
Are those the ‘capped’ version? Assuming so, how are they held on? Is it just a friction fit?
I like the idea of the cap in that you can measure how much thread engagement you’re getting, but not sure how well they would hold up to daily driver abuse.
MasterC17
Active Member
Here's the link to his eBay listing.
Set of 20 Grade 5 Titanium lug nuts M14x1.5 for Tesla Model S 3 X Y Rainbow | eBay
Weight 17.4g Lighter than OEM Tesla steel lugs by 2.5X and than unplugged performance by 2.5X (mine use a 19mm hex, they are 21mm long). Gorgeous burnt titanium blue rainbow finish.
www.ebay.com
You can also go to hyevolt.com they are little cheaper and I have more up to date pictures there.
Thanks....I'm in contact with JeffHere's the link to his eBay listing.
Set of 20 Grade 5 Titanium lug nuts M14x1.5 for Tesla Model S 3 X Y Rainbow | eBay
Weight 17.4g Lighter than OEM Tesla steel lugs by 2.5X and than unplugged performance by 2.5X (mine use a 19mm hex, they are 21mm long). Gorgeous burnt titanium blue rainbow finish.www.ebay.com
Similar threads
