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M3 Audio Upgrades- Show us what you did

Will you be modifying your stock stereo?


  • Total voters
    97
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I needed low end bass as well and upgraded my SR+ audio with the following:

Speaker Activation - Wire Harness (Teslaoffer) (2hrs Install)
  • Enabled 6 speakers (4 front/2 rear)

Upgraded Front Door Mid Bass Woofers (Audioliphe.com) (2hrs install)
  • Focal ISU-200 8inch
  • 3D Printed Mounts - printed over 4 days (ABS plastic)

Sub/Amp/LOC: (3hrs Install)
  • 12inch Polk in Ported Box db1212 (360W RMS/26-200Hz, old gear I had laying around w/ below amp)
  • 500W RMS Alpine Amp MRP-M500
  • AudioControl LC7i Line Out Converter
  • Scosche UAKP Universal Amp KwikPlug
  • Rockford Fosgate Amp Kit

Outcome: speaker activation was cheap and truly enhanced the clarity, front door woofers increased bass response in an adequate fashion, but the sub install really made the difference and I more than pleased with the quality of bass not to mention it shakes the car. Although my sub/amp was laying around, to increase space I would opt for a JL microsub to place in the "sub-trunk" (how fitting ;)). Difficulty for everything was not hard, take your time and read through all of the plenty info found on this site which helped guide me. hope this helps.
Please tell me that you completely sealed off the quarter sized hole on the edge of each 3D printed speaker baffle with some silicone or cld (dynamat, noico, etc.). you not you are not getting the full potential of your Focal 8's due to front/ rear wave cancellation
 
I used to install car audio. Didn’t do much in years because car systems much better than in the 90s. However even if I want to add a sub. Aren’t we losing range by adding more equipment to drain the battery?
Yea. The more we draw from the 1`2v the more will be drawn from the HV battery, eventually dinging range. Exactly how much isn't known as there hasn't been much data in that department. However I think it's not too bad if we're using digital and keeping things within reason. Just don't get into the 90's with 1/4 ohm Soundstream setups. I've wondered about something as simple as a dual 2ohm VC 8in sub and just simply replacing the stocker, but the aftermarket subs have crap efficiencies so we may lose volume instead gain. Tesla's speakers are all custom low ohm neodymium setups so very efficient.
 
Update to system:

I decided to move on from the 12inch sub box as I felt I needed the trunk space.

I purchased a Polk DB DVC 10inch Marine grade sub ($~100) (with water sliding off the rear window after opening the trunk after a rain fall, I felt this was necessary). I bought 3/4inch MDF ($15) and cut it to match the existing sub trunk cover for an infinite baffle setup. Cutting everything was easy with a sawzall. The result was amazing as it sounds as good, possibly better than the 12inch in a box. Was well worth the time to gain my trunk space back - very easy to do. I have a sub grill on order to protect it as it’s in the middle of the mdf. I just need to spend time cleaning up the wire configuration and mounting the amp and line out converter. Also, I added Noico sound deadening mat (80mil) and it appears to improved the bass resonance even further. Will probably add black carpet so that it matches existing fabric for an oem look.

View attachment 704481

I really am curious about the IB setup. How did you seal that MDF plate to the trunk well? Or is it just sitting on there?
 
Please tell me that you completely sealed off the quarter sized hole on the edge of each 3D printed speaker baffle with some silicone or cld (dynamat, noico, etc.). you not you are not getting the full potential of your Focal 8's due to front/ rear wave cancellation
@T3SLACL3 you are completely correct! I'm not an audiophile so I didn't think to do this initially. However after noticing that the Focal 8 inchers were not putting out their true potential I did use sound deadener (noico) to help. I still think there is room for further improvement with more sound deadning throughout the entire door cavity, but only on the major flat surface areas. Did you by chance 3d print the same brackets and experience this issue as well? Looking to learn from others experiences.
 
try to get at least 1/2 lb. around each 3-D printed speaker bracket. i have used this in all of my door mounted speaker installs
(white in the pic below, but its dark grey)


duct seal.JPG

 
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