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M3 Car Wash?

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Trying to do a proper job outdoors in winter UK is almost certainly doomed and unless you already own polishers and supplies then it's not going to be cheap either. As mentioned earlier i did my S BUT the pearl paintwork is in excellent condition (ex showroom model) and I wasn't expecting perfection. After washing I clayed any 'bits' and marks and then did a gentle claying and rinsing of each panel. With the cheap (claimed to be ceramic but who knows 10 bottles for £20) It took my aged bones and backache 2 days and a one and a half bottles to coat and buff panel by panel - everywhere but the windscreen. The product has quite good short term reviews but doesnlt last more than a month or two .. so 2 weeks later when it should have oxidised fully I washed car throughly and redit it- no need to go silly with prep this time and it took me half a day to get it cleaned and a second coat. Any dirt had easily rinsed off. I plan to recoat higher risk panels after each wash which with wales winter mud and rain will likely be 4 weeks plus between washes but I'll gadually get around the car every 2-3 mths topping it up - it's actually quicker than washing, polishing, waiting for the polish to haze and then buffing. Youngun's could probably do a car in 2-3 hrs. For all that the end result was visually excellent despite the economy.
 
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Trying to do a proper job outdoors in winter UK is almost certainly doomed and unless you already own polishers and supplies then it's not going to be cheap either. As mentioned earlier i did my S BUT the pearl paintwork is in excellent condition (ex showroom model) and I wasn't expecting perfection. After washing I clayed any 'bits' and marks and then did a gentle claying and rinsing of each panel. With the cheap (claimed to be ceramic but who knows 10 bottles for £20) It took my aged bones and backache 2 days and a one and a half bottles to coat and buff panel by panel - everywhere but the windscreen. The product has quite good short term reviews but doesnlt last more than a month or two .. so 2 weeks later when it should have oxidised fully I washed car throughly and redit it- no need to go silly with prep this time and it took me half a day to get it cleaned and a second coat. Any dirt had easily rinsed off. I plan to recoat higher risk panels after each wash which with wales winter mud and rain will likely be 4 weeks plus between washes but I'll gadually get around the car every 2-3 mths topping it up - it's actually quicker than washing, polishing, waiting for the polish to haze and then buffing. Youngun's could probably do a car in 2-3 hrs. For all that the end result was visually excellent despite the economy.
Thanks for this, you maybe right about the polish bit and could skip it, although the swirls are minor. Just thought if i was to do it, to do it right. Is there a product that you kind of polish to "Hide" the swirl marks that you apply like wax (Wax on, wax off)?
 
Thanks for this, you maybe right about the polish bit and could skip it, although the swirls are minor. Just thought if i was to do it, to do it right. Is there a product that you kind of polish to "Hide" the swirl marks that you apply like wax (Wax on, wax off)?
AFAIK any decent polish that includes a filler compund should hide the swirls. Such as Autoglym Super Resin Polish.
 
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AFAIK any decent polish that includes a filler compund should hide the swirls. Such as Autoglym Super Resin Polish.

Trouble is that woudn't be ideal under a genuine ceramic DIY - might interfer with the 'bond'. I see no reason why you can't hand polish out any swirl marks as opposed to using a mechanical job - it's just going to take longer and there's no rule saying you have to finish the whole job in one hit. If not doing the coating then, yes, lots of good wax polishes should hide minor marks - or you choose to ignore them and worry about it in the future - another reason for picking a cheap product that you can strip off later if need be.
 
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Trouble is that woudn't be ideal under a genuine ceramic DIY - might interfer with the 'bond'.
That's a very good point. I think I'm erring towards going back to basics, and doing the following, after washing of course:

1. Strip back to bare paint using panel wipe.
2. Polish with two coats of Autoglym Ultra High Definition Wax.
3. Finish off with a coat of Autoglym Super Resin Polish.

Then wash in future and dry off using Autoglym Aqua Wax. Every couple of months I'd top up again with the Super Resin Polish. Redo the Hi-Def wax every year.
 
After many hours of googling and watching endless hours of YouTube videos my Car wash list is now complete

I have decided on a Top notch Ceramic coat to complement the cleaning products i carefully selected.

Good quality soap (Well known brand), Mit that is soft and warm, Clay bar with a desent lube, Branded cleaner the top off with an expensive Ceramic coat.


Car Wash List.jpg


Only joking, as if i would spend that much on a Ceramic coat for me to do DIY!

PS - My real list is not ready as its a HUGE mindfield and too many products out there!
 
After many hours of googling and watching endless hours of YouTube videos my Car wash list is now complete

I have decided on a Top notch Ceramic coat to complement the cleaning products i carefully selected.

Good quality soap (Well known brand), Mit that is soft and warm, Clay bar with a desent lube, Branded cleaner the top off with an expensive Ceramic coat.


View attachment 463791

Only joking, as if i would spend that much on a Ceramic coat for me to do DIY!

PS - My real list is not ready as its a HUGE mindfield and too many products out there!
Blimey, Brasso has gone up! I think the last tin I bought was half-a-crown! :D
 
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Can I get a hallelujah, like, or £20 for using the search function?

Quick Q - I'm a rented tenant so can't fit an external water source for a hose (I do have a karcher with a foam attachment which is annoying). What's the best for getting really stubborn 'mud dots' off the car? Don't want to brush them (damage) but the wiping with a cloth rigorously tests my patience.

Thanks
 
You could try applying the shampoo using warm water and leaving it to soak for a while. It might take a few goes to soften it enough for it to wipe off completely. If the dots are few and localised then use a large towel , soak it and leave it over them for a while to soften.
 
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Can I get a hallelujah, like, or £20 for using the search function?

Quick Q - I'm a rented tenant so can't fit an external water source for a hose (I do have a karcher with a foam attachment which is annoying). What's the best for getting really stubborn 'mud dots' off the car? Don't want to brush them (damage) but the wiping with a cloth rigorously tests my patience.

Thanks
Bug and tar remover. Spray on leave for some time then it should come off with a wash

Also you can get a hand pump foam bottle for around £30